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| TR51 Member Since: 17 Apr 2012 Location: Dorset UK Posts: 333   
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Stunning 90
Where is your water tank if you dont mind me asking(!?) Is it in the load space or a wheel arch mounted tank? |
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30th Jan 2013 5:03pm |
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| SteveG Member Since: 29 Nov 2011 Location: Norfolk Posts: 660 
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What rear OME springs are you running? In the last pics it looks like the rear spring is not allowing hardly any upward flex
Cheers Steve |
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30th Jan 2013 5:24pm |
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| Killer90 Site Sponsor Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 6478  
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looks a proper overlander
Modification wise what are you trying to achieve what sort of things do you like CSK Automotive
www.cskautomotive.co.uk Like us on Facebook - www.facebook.com/csklr Follow us on Instagram - @cskautomotive |
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30th Jan 2013 6:02pm |
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| BjornAgain Member Since: 29 Oct 2012 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa Posts: 22  
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Evening chaps, so I am keen to keep the overland feel the vehicle, bring it up to date a little and most importantly make sure it lasts for another 15 years. This is my list. Not really in order of importance.
EXTERNAL Remove radiator grill and replace Radiator grill mount replacement Windscreen wiper blades replace Windscreen wiper blade arms replace Windscreen washer jets replace Replace bolts on air vents Roof scratches fixed Wax/polish treatment Bonnet hinges MUD UK or LRS offroad COR4 Door hinges replaced with stainless steel Stainless steel bulk head bracket Stainless steel bolt set nakatanenga JW Speaker LED headlights Waxoyl or Dynatrol New tyres MT KM2's 255/85 or 265/75 R16 current 235 /85 R16 AT BFG Spray boost wheels black Tubular bull bar - not 100% sure about this yet! Winch WARN Rock sliders with high-lift jack and recovery points Roof rack LED light bar 50 inch rigid industries INTERNAL Install d-ring's on back of rear seat mounts Remove rear seat bolts in back and install riv-nuts with flat head bolts Carpet wooden boards in the back Sound proofing in the front and back New black or dark grey carpets throughout MUD Roof console - radio installed in roof console MUD console - controls for winch, spots, rear spots, flood light and fuel on console = 5 switches Grey finish on the dash to be changed to white or black Momo Millennium 350 steering wheel and boss Recaro seats material sportster CS seats ENGINE Silicone hose kit Stainless steel exhaust Exhaust exit thought the body work behind wheel Steve... eish, not too sure what Old Man Emu shocks they are... Poor form. Put them on in 2004. Definitely nitro chargers though. Will post a pic of the water tank tomorrow... But its in the load space mounted across the wheel arches just behind the rear seats! |
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31st Jan 2013 10:24pm |
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| BjornAgain Member Since: 29 Oct 2012 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa Posts: 22
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 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge TR51, as you can see held in place with Ratchet straps. Does reduce the amount we can put in the back, then again we have done trips to the Kalahari for 2 weeks and managed to carry everything we need and then some... I am slowely, gettting to ordering everything I need... I am having probelms with the Carling Switches though. I have looked across other threads and not having much success in finding an answer. Which ones should I order... completely confuzzled! I need switches for front spots, rear work flight, LED flood ligh on roof rack, winch (does one put controls on the dash or just the on off?) and the long range tank fuel pump. Suggestions? What should I order? mom / off / mom or off / mom...? Please help![/img] |
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6th Feb 2013 4:33pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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For simple switching you require 'On / Off', we will have them on our website from next week, but you can also pay more and buy them from 'MUD' or 'X-Eng'.
Your winch controller, in and out, needs to be mom off mom, it sits in the 'off' position and then you push the top 'mom' to winch out and the bottom 'mom' to winch in  |
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6th Feb 2013 4:39pm |
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| TR51 Member Since: 17 Apr 2012 Location: Dorset UK Posts: 333
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 Thank you for such a detailed reply, and neat solution |
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6th Feb 2013 4:43pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10382
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Nice
 and used too |
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6th Feb 2013 6:53pm |
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| BjornAgain Member Since: 29 Oct 2012 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa Posts: 22
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So unfortunately my little project is not moving as swiftly as I would have hoped, need to get cracking!!!
I have been ordering a few items off the internet and having them shipped within the EU and flow back to SA with my girlfriend who goes over every so often, but unfortunately it does mean that things happen slowly. But definitely worthwhile trying to avoid duties. I have received my new JW Speaker headlights which work fantastically albeit one small problem, which I will elaborate on. I cannot believe the improvement over the old lights though. Simply extraordinary. The lights however do flicker when the vehicle is turned off. Turns my garage into a night club. Has anyone come across this before? There might me a fault in my wiring system (likely given Land Rover excellent vehicle electrics track record) Tim has suggested a re-wiring to remove this strobe affect... I have read some reports of installing a relay and leaving the wiring as is. Has anyone experienced this and come up with any other “quick solutions” or “fixes”? Click image to enlarge The lights were very simple to install literally plug and play! Brilliant! I have resprayed the headlight surrounds matt white. Not to sure if I will like the look when the go on but thought I would give it a bash anyway! Click image to enlarge Behind the left hand light I found two jacks.. or plugs. See the below pictures... Does anyone have any idea where these are from or what they are used for? One seems to be connected to the horn/hooter? Is this part of the alarm? I have NO idea what the other is for? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I also pulled the carpets out of the back of the car. The glue that they randomly distributed over the wheel arches during installation was a nightmare. In some places there was NO glue at all and in others they was enough to keep it there for eternity, resulting in pieces of the carpet literally disintegrating entirely. I now need to remove the residual glue... anyone got any clever tricks? Mr Min or furniture polish was my first weapon of choice left for about 20 minutes didn’t help much. Tried a variety of chemicals and turpentine seems to work the best but some serious elbow grease is still required. Anyone got any clever tricks? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I have my Dynamat ready and waiting for installation. Has anyone got any photos of Dynamat installation in the rear of a 90. Always nice to see how other people have gone about the job. Click image to enlarge |
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1st Apr 2013 4:52pm |
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| party monkey Member Since: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Oxon. Posts: 1311  
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Best guess on the first connector is it's for a headlamp leveling motor. Second one (brown plug) is for a battery backed up alarm sounder. Jon - 110 td5 [sold]. Currently Defenderless.
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1st Apr 2013 5:14pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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Nice upgrade! Maybe you ordered the switches already, so this suggestion comes too late. At mudstuff you can have 1, 3 and 6 gang mounts, but if you order separately interlocking mounts you can fit exactly seven switches on a row:
Click image to enlarge Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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1st Apr 2013 6:44pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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Party Monkey is correct
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1st Apr 2013 8:40pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Don't worry - flickering is almost certainly due to low battery voltage - been there, done that
I gave Tim at Mobilecentre a bit of grief when I first fitted mine as I thought one was faulty  Turns out each LED has a slightly different minimum voltage requirement... and my (only 2 year old) battery is dying. They aren't meant to operate much under 12V. My battery resting voltage is around 11.2V (left light flickers), down to 10.8V when the glow plugs kick in (left light flickers), down to 10.2V when starting up (both lights flicker), then takes about 5 seconds to reach 14.2V once the alternator is working and both lights are fine. After switching off after a bit, they don't flicker at all because the battery is juiced up.
It's got a bit better now we're at plus temperatures but I'm now fitting an Odyssey/BlueSea twin battery setup Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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1st Apr 2013 10:52pm |
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| BjornAgain Member Since: 29 Oct 2012 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa Posts: 22
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Thanks Party Monkey! My vehicle is a 1999 model. When did they start putting the headlight leveling systems in...? I though it was only on later models?
I actually havnt got to ordering the switches yet, still deliberating on exactly what I want to do... reading and looking at what other people have done. I have a genesis dual battery management system installed. The vehicle battery reads 12.18V and the auxiliary 12.68V. I have not tested the Volts at the end on the plugs yet but I would assume its going to be much lower than what the battery management system is telling me...? I havnt driven the vehicle for a while and had it on a trickle charge whilst I have been doing all the work required which may be contributing to the lower Volts...? |
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2nd Apr 2013 10:22am |
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