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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Mantec RAI to snorkel conversion on puma
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
This is a fixed thing, blades don't move, this gives the dust particles a centrifugal force throwing them to the sides instead of being sucked directly into the filter. same with water drops so the filter stays dry and water flows from the walls to the drainage holes.
Post #204896 24th Jan 2013 9:35am
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
part 2


All sealed up Rai side plate mounted





Both plates with extra foam pieces, to protect the paintwork, note that all was filled up with silicone to seal the thing watertight. A remark on this is to leave the silicone dry after mounting and tightening things only after 24 hours, that way eventual movement does not create gaps and the silicone bead is pressed down instead of spread out.




Click image to enlarge


Pipe runs to the airbox which is sealed off. Pipe to inlet sealed by pumping in sealer through the “ventilator” tab holes and the vent hole. Pipe is 90mm ID, the plastic part 80 at the snorkel and the entrance of airbox 70 which can be opened up to 90mm.
I did not do this yet as you need airspeed to cool down the MAF sensor and i have no idea if the trumpet the sensor is placed in is sufficient for this, nor what limits the programmed values have and what opening up things would do with it.


Click image to enlarge



Then route a new tube for the ventilation air intake.

Entering ventilator through sealing plate.


Click image to enlarge


And at the inlet made a roof so rain and dirt don’t enter the tube.


Click image to enlarge


All in place and working. I’ll just have to put a bead of silicone on the outside perimeter of the mantec just to make it a bit “nice-finish” and avoid dirt buildup.
No pic as my phone died, maybe tomorrow


note:

the air intake is now waterproof from top of mantec to engine (for real deep water prolonged driving i would also seal the airbox lid but for a nose-dip the normal sealing should be enough.

:)

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #206027 27th Jan 2013 7:26pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Some good effort there Thumbs Up

More of a bodge but could you not have got the effect if you had just extended the hose through the wing and up inside the plastic chimney?
Post #206076 27th Jan 2013 9:38pm
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Thanks!

to the pipe in the chimney, yes if you had a pipe which is flexible enough and fed all the way up. (remember this is the new style mantec, not the tube-style)

but then you would be still stuck with the stupid mounting bracket of the mantec, thicknesses would not fit anymore etc etc to hold it down decently.

I kind of took 3 in one, mantec mounting to body, venting lines of axles and gearbox and waterproofed/enlarged air intake.


Smile
Post #206079 27th Jan 2013 9:54pm
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speedymarktd6



Member Since: 02 May 2011
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 102

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Epsom Green
I wouldnt mind one of those mounts that go on the inside of the wing and the tube to airbox it would give me a bit of peace of mind knowing its all sealed GROUP BUY lol
Post #206118 27th Jan 2013 10:50pm
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Update

last part of this

took care of the airbox, it might be more simple to do this when things are disassembled.


Click image to enlarge


Using dremel etc taking out the 70mm restricton (piping and opening are now 90mm!)



so this is then how it looks




A pic of the inside revealed some sealer that overflowed when sealing the hose to the airbox. So cleaned that up as well.


Click image to enlarge



So far only more suction noise from the snorkel head and a subjective feeling that the engine pulls more freely. Had the feeling that at around 2200rpm there was some loss of acceleration and now this is gone. Have to put more mileage before being sure but i would say this mod is as good as a decat performance wise.



Special thanks to Pete Bell from BAS, he was the only one taking time to answer my mails regarding airflow speed and possible MAF sensor issues. Thanks! :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #207624 2nd Feb 2013 2:40pm
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Now 200km+ after the mod.

Had my usual co-drivers with me and they all confirmed my initial feeling.

this is THE mod everyone should do if thinking about decat or similar. The difference is big, bigger than the decat and absolutely a must before any other tuning is carried out.

From around 1000rpm till 3500+ the engine pulls without hesitation. Remapping will be even better.
I also noticed the turbo pressure dropping to 1.2 instead of 1.4 (so again more playroom for the mappers)

We drove through city trafic in 5th gear all the time, no shuddering or hesitation. Taking of in 2nd now a pleasure instead of a balancing act with the clutch.

If i have to describe the difference to the decat i would say the decat opened up the low revs till 2000rpm and the air intake puts another layer on that and opens up the high revs from 2200rpm till 3500.

The engine now feels as it is running as it should. And it is a surprise realizing how bad the stock setup really is.

Smile
Post #208205 4th Feb 2013 9:49am
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devnull



Member Since: 29 Mar 2010
Location: Poland
Posts: 18

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Would it be possible to reach same effect by installing Safari set SS525HF initially designed for V8. It already comes with a connecting hose, that definitely needs shortening. It seems to be the ‘least obstructive’ watertight ducting available on the market.
Anyone has experience using that model for Puma?

I assume that by the fact that V8’s rev way higher than tdci, that set is capable of supplying enough air into the engine.
Post #220533 19th Mar 2013 9:18pm
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
although i am certain you are right this snorkel provides enough air for the puma (as the turbo inlet stays restricted in diameter anyway)

i remember diesels need more air than petrols (if i remember correctly), compression rate difference, turbo charging etc playing a role. Cant find a calculator for that quickly but i wont be surprised a turbo charged 2.4 at 3000rpm will be close or over a 3.9 V8 at 4000rpm
(correct me if i'm wrong)

once did the calculation for my petrol 2.5l V8 in my tatra and found a 200TDI filter to be more than oversized. So i put in a V8 filter housing just to be on the safe side Mr. Green


The tricky bit is the MAF as that one is airflow/speed dependent so it stays a compromise as you have to leave the inlet tube with the MAF to the turbo as it is to not disturb the readout. Everything before that can be as unrestricted as possible to help.
And it does help. Thumbs Up

2cents only
Smile
Post #220550 19th Mar 2013 10:05pm
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Inigo



Member Since: 13 Nov 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 617

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
speedymarktd6 wrote:
I wouldnt mind one of those mounts that go on the inside of the wing and the tube to airbox it would give me a bit of peace of mind knowing its all sealed GROUP BUY lol


I'm in. Looks like a useful mod.
Post #220557 19th Mar 2013 10:15pm
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tatra805



Member Since: 16 Aug 2011
Location: Dolany
Posts: 436

Slovakia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
I think i can work something out on the plates, the tubing would be stupid to ship but i can try to figure out what type/brand it is. (you'll need exactly 1 meter).

If interested just PM me and we can discuss details.

Smile
Post #220563 19th Mar 2013 10:32pm
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dilukabey



Member Since: 17 May 2011
Location: Sri Lanka
Posts: 173

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
Air suction
How do you know that 100% air is sucking through the snorkel without any leakage? Because when I block the snorkel by hand covering the top pipe after removing the top cap, the engine was still runing, didnt stop. Result was just the MIL light on the dash. Thats it. Is this normal or should need to check for any air leak?
Post #220887 21st Mar 2013 12:43pm
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tuesdayfox



Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney,OZ
Posts: 129

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Zambezi Silver
my friend put a plastic bag on top of his LC....and the engine stall within seconds

i tried this on my 2.2, and engine runs happily.

then I use a rubber mat and cover the intake hole to the air filter box.... engine is not suffecating..
but if i put it on top of the box. the engine stalls...


i think the lid of the intake box must be leaking....
Post #269265 25th Sep 2013 12:52am
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tuesdayfox



Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney,OZ
Posts: 129

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Zambezi Silver
Re: Air suction
dilukabey wrote:
How do you know that 100% air is sucking through the snorkel without any leakage? Because when I block the snorkel by hand covering the top pipe after removing the top cap, the engine was still runing, didnt stop. Result was just the MIL light on the dash. Thats it. Is this normal or should need to check for any air leak?


that would be a reasonable methods, IMHO
Post #269266 25th Sep 2013 12:57am
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willyj



Member Since: 23 Oct 2009
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 189

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Not meaning to hijack thread but which snorkel (RAI) is it?

Im looking at fitting this one http://www.mantec.co.uk/productdetail.cfm?...3D6B187B27

And would it be intrusive to roof rack? Patriot or front runner.

Would like to know that I could seal it properly and make it running right. Ive seen the chart BAS put up showing how much they decrease the potential.

Thanks in advance

Wil
Post #295426 3rd Jan 2014 1:09pm
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