Home > Puma (Tdci) > clutch problems... |
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dondiddy Member Since: 13 Nov 2012 Location: Hamilton Posts: 224 |
Hi Doug, There is a whole raft of reasons the judder can occur some of which you mention in your post. You should check that the engine/gearbox mountings are still in place and haven`t burst/come loose. This you can check by getting underneath and having a look and if there are no health and safety police around have someone GENTLY bring up the clutch to the bite point with the engine running and the car in gear. The trick is getting yourself in a position where you can see what`s happening underneath without getting run over in the process! Oil contamination from a leaking crankshaft seal can also cause problems. Is there any oil around the back of the engine/bellhousing? Failing that then it`s probably a gearbox out job to check for actual physical damage to the clutch or flywheel, missing dowels,loose bolts etc. If you do a lot of heavy towing then the replacement clutch might not have been up to the job although I would have thought with the low 1st gear on the puma it wouldn`t have stressed the clutch that much when pulling away even when towing. If you have to replace the clutch again best to go for an original LR part and avoid the temptation to fit a cheaper Britpart alternative. Cheers! (Disclaimer) The mention of lying underneath the Land Rover whilst someone tries to drive over you in it should not be attempted at home! Any mention of this in the text was carried out by trained professionals on a closed course!
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1st Mar 2013 10:08pm |
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dhopable Member Since: 31 Dec 2012 Location: Peterborough Posts: 47 |
cheers dondiddy, thats a great help!
there is some oil under the bottom of the bell-housing where it bolts onto the engine, around that little half moon hole at the base. but ive been told that is normal? do you think its come from above and got in the housing and is causing the clutch to slip? what is the procedure for this now then? do i need to replace the clutch anyway as its now contaminated? i was going to replace it with a LR OE one for sure because of all the problems with the clutches on the early pumas. seems safest option not to cut costs! Cheers Doug |
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3rd Mar 2013 1:02pm |
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dondiddy Member Since: 13 Nov 2012 Location: Hamilton Posts: 224 |
Hi Doug, Although people will tell you that its a Land Rover and they all leak oil they shouldn`t really. The bottom of the sump/ gearbox area should be dry and leak free with at worse a very light oil misting around the bellhousing area. Reality is an oil leak can be very hard to find as airflow,vibration etc can make the oil spread in every direction from the actual leak site. Even upwards on occasion! A jet wash to get rid of the oil then a test drive to see if it reappears might help you locate the problem but try and keep water away from the alternator etc.
Reality is your probably going to have to pull the gearbox out to get to the heart of the problem. Any number of things besides oil could cause the judder. It will hopefully be obvious what the problem is once you have the Land Rover in bits! What was wrong with the original clutch that it has to be changed and have you spoken/complained to the garage that did the work that its playing up again?Just a thought? |
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3rd Mar 2013 10:43pm |
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dhopable Member Since: 31 Dec 2012 Location: Peterborough Posts: 47 |
Just thought I'd update if anyone was curious..!?
I changed my clutch yesterday. Note to self: Dougie you are not a land rover mechanic! What appears to have been the cause was that when the clutch was replaced under warranty the 'ford dealer' only replaced the friction plate and not the pressure plate or the thrust bearing. You could see the wear on the friction plate was uneven and thus causing the slip on initial take off when the pressure on the thrust bearing is less quick as in 2nd, 3rd etc. ALSO when I took out the thrust bearing there was a definite notch on the movement range, now I don't know whether this would aid the slipping on the clutch as the pressure plate wouldn't have had an even force all the way the initial power take up. Ok I think I'm not making sense but I know what I mean!! Anyway, now is the time to take the original bits to the dealer and have it out with them for lying to me saying they put s kit in when clearly it was only a friction plate!!! And breathe! Cheers Doug |
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9th Mar 2013 11:43am |
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dilukabey Member Since: 17 May 2011 Location: Sri Lanka Posts: 173 |
Hi Doug,
I am having a simillar sort of problem as what you used to experience before. I guess just my clutch was replaced when it was 17k miles and now i have done 43k and having the rattle at idle and judder at 1st 2nd gears + when depress / release the clutch and throttle. But when i enquired my usual LR guarage expert here, he advised me to change the flywheel part no. LR006953 to avoid the excessive play. Does that make any sense? Cheers Kind regards, Diluk |
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19th Nov 2013 1:15pm |
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Augustus Member Since: 23 Mar 2016 Location: Carcassonne Posts: 86 |
This sounds similar to the thread i just posted.
Did the new OE parts solve the judder? I had had thrust bearing mentioned as a possible. Might look into that. Thanks. Hope your's is sorted. |
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8th Apr 2016 8:42pm |
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Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 |
Thanks for taking the time to do an update - out of curiosity why did you not return the vehicle to the dealer to resolve as the part(s) were only changed recently. |
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9th Apr 2016 8:59am |
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