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Home > Td5 > Stay with Auto or change back to manual gearbox?

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davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red

No they were fitted to nearly all 110s prior to the early 1990s including the utility V8s (not sure about CSW V8s). I think it was only with the arrival of the TDi that that changed. It might have even been the same for the 200TDi, not sure without doing some digging. For many years the 110 got the 1.6 as standard and the 90 got the 1.4, the 90 had smaller tyres (factory fit) and was lighter so they could pull the 1.4. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

8th Feb 2013 10:36am

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

davew wrote:
Not surprised you struggled with the 1.2

I'd keep an eye out for a second hand 1.6 given the weight you're hauling around and the tyre size. It'll be a bit under geared for the motorway but I think the TD5 will cope with it reasonably well. It'll make pulling away from a standing start a lot better though and improve acceleration. It might even improve fuel economy unless you spend a lot of time on motorways.

You can usually pick up second hand transfer boxes for around the £120-£150 mark, 1.6 ones are comparatively rare but there's still plenty about. They were fitted to 110s as standard for many years due to the potentially heavier load and larger standard tyres. Fitting yourself it's a pretty cheap option, possibly zero cost - if it doesn't work sell it on for the same money, if it does you can sell the 1.4 if you want to. On my own in the driveway it normally takes me about 4 hours to swap one, a lot quicker if you can persuade some friends to help.

I used to run a 1.6 when I was running a 3.9 V8 with hydraulic auto with tyres up to 35 inch and it made the driving a lot easier. It improved fuel consumption because the gearbox stayed locked up for more time, keeping it within the engine's power band. It improved acceleration 0-60 time dramatically although it dropped my cruise speed by about 10MPH.

Hi Dave
That sounds like a good idea. I rarel go over 60 anyway due to towing a trailer. Is it possible to have a 1.6 box with higher gearing for motorway driving and keep the lower gear for pulling away do you reckon? 1996 Defender 130 converted to TD5 and auto

1975 Triumph Stag 3.0 V8

8th Feb 2013 5:24pm

T1G UP

Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey

i got a 1.6 that needs a rebuild here.

you can pul away in low range and snick it into high range with some practice

8th Feb 2013 5:39pm

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

You could probably fit an overdrive... very spendy though and not sure what, if any, types are still available. GKN used to do one, not sure if it's still available. Mr Ashcroft is your man for that

The 1.6 box on it's own will just drop all the "high range" ratios, the low range ratio is the same as your current low range. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

8th Feb 2013 5:43pm

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

Thanks for your help mate.

I'll probably give Mr Ashcroft a ring about a 1.6 box, as I have had bad experiences with second hand t/box and gearboxes. As the truck is used for work nearly every day it needs to be reliable.
Certainly sounds like a 1.6 box would solve my problem of revving hard to get anywhere at low speed. As soon as I get onto anything soft I have to use low ratio. 1996 Defender 130 converted to TD5 and auto

1975 Triumph Stag 3.0 V8

8th Feb 2013 6:07pm

joelyates18

Member Since: 22 Dec 2012
Location: Neath
Posts: 39

Personally I'm not a fan of automatics I mean sure they have their place but I enjoy driving and it's a lot more involving of a drive with a manual so it really is up to personal choice at the end of the day only you can answer your question

2000 TD5 90 'Lemmy'
Happy Roving!

9th Feb 2013 7:36pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8059

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

if an auto is sluggish pulling away then the TC is slipping, make sure it has a good cooler to combat this. (or two) what temp does she run at? if you change to manual then you will be slipping a clutch to achieve the same affect unless you change the gearing.

1.6 box as mentioned
change to 4.11 Diffs?
fit smaller OD wheels
underdrive?
use Low to pull away

low is the same in all T boxes. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

9th Feb 2013 11:19pm

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

1.6 transfer box turned up from Ashcroft. In the process of getting it and can't get it in the last 1/2 inch. Checked if a collar was left in the back of the autobiography and it isn't.
I've got the correct output shaft on the back of the auto box so puzzled. Tried pulling it together with the bolts but they go too tight without anything moving.

Any ideas anyone please? 1996 Defender 130 converted to TD5 and auto

1975 Triumph Stag 3.0 V8

16th Feb 2013 3:03pm

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

Check you don't have locating pegs on both halves !

I've also had instances where the locating pegs or too tight a fit to go into one half or the other due to corrosion, factory tolerances etc... http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

16th Feb 2013 3:26pm

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

davew wrote:
Check you don't have locating pegs on both halves !

I've also had instances where the locating pegs or too tight a fit to go into one half or the other due to corrosion, factory tolerances etc...

Doh! Can't believe I did that. You were right it was the tiny dowel in both halves causing the problem. Luckily I could one out by moving the box back a bit - phew!

Another quick question - on the front there is a red hole plug like the one for the breather on top. I don't have anything to put in this what is it for? 1996 Defender 130 converted to TD5 and auto

1975 Triumph Stag 3.0 V8

16th Feb 2013 3:51pm

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

High-low switch maybe ? A pic would help... http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

16th Feb 2013 3:59pm

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

davew wrote:
Check you don't have locating pegs on both halves !

I've also had instances where the locating pegs or too tight a fit to go into one half or the other due to corrosion, factory tolerances etc...

16th Feb 2013 4:01pm

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

davew wrote:
High-low switch maybe ? A pic would help...

Hi Dave
There is a pic on the low range - lack of response thread, Dave is pointing at it! It is to do with the throttle response and been suggested to remove it. What is best to plug the hole with, just leave the red plug in there?

Cheers.... Al 1996 Defender 130 converted to TD5 and auto

1975 Triumph Stag 3.0 V8

16th Feb 2013 4:07pm

Arbman Al

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 80

davew wrote:
High-low switch maybe ? A pic would help...

16th Feb 2013 4:19pm

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

Personally I'd stick a high-low switch in there even if you don't connect it for the moment. As discussed on the thread, it's pretty much only there so the ECM can adapt the throttle response when in low box.

Alternatively it's bound to be a standard thread so getting a suitable plug for it shouldn't be a problem if you can find out the thread - I'm sure Ashcrofts will be able to help.

As a purely temporary fix... you'll probably be fine with the red plug in there, maybe add some duct tape or similar to make sure it doesn't vibrate out. Keep an eye on it though and don't go wading !

http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

16th Feb 2013 4:19pm

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