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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Defender ICE for dummies
So long term I want to upgrade the stereo on my TD5 110. I need a bit of idiots guide.

What I want to do is:

Change the front 2 existing speakers in the front (footwell, lower dash ones)
Add a pair of small tweeters into the top of the Dash (like a Puma)
Add a pair of rear 10cm Speakers in to the Puma trim you can get at the rear corners
Add a pair of 6x9 into a custom made box each side just behind the middle row seats
Add an active subwoofer onto the back of the cubby as per 2013 110s

So thats 8 pair of speakers & a sub

Where I'm confused is the AMP bit, what I need and how to wire it?
Post #207672 2nd Feb 2013 5:44pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I wouldn't bother with the 6x9s unless you want to change the rear 10s for 6x9s then one amp will power all four speakers and the sub (if active) is allready amped.
Post #207674 2nd Feb 2013 5:48pm
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
My advice is don't do it if your not competent to do it

Idiots / dummies guide won't cover enough items

So get a friend who knows what they are doing . Thumbs Up
Post #207675 2nd Feb 2013 5:50pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Big Cry That's no fun Ken, how am I supposed to learn.
Post #207676 2nd Feb 2013 5:52pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Ken's right, if you don't know about electrics and make a mistake you could end up burning your pride and joy to the ground.
Post #207680 2nd Feb 2013 6:07pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
I have rebuilt a 110 from the ground up. I'm not bad at spannering and electricery.

Just don't get crossovers and amps.
Post #207681 2nd Feb 2013 6:08pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

United Kingdom 
Ken's right there. Trouble is a lot of it is very time consuming so having someone else to spare the time is a fair ask really.
Unless you wanted me too....
Amp / active sub wiring is fairly straight forward if you ask me it's just a case of using the correct grade of items with the correct cable and fuse rating. Hardest most time consuming part is fitting and routing the cables. Then of course you need all the kit and bit's and pieces ready to fit there and then. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #207778 2nd Feb 2013 8:08pm
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
Simple terms -

Speaker wise your front footwell 10cm speakers want to be components with a crossover that will then separate the mid range and high range to then drive your tweeters. Thus only requiring 2 wires to drive both speakers. Rear you either want 10 cm expensive( for quality sound) or 6x9 you won't need both.
A 4 Chanel amp will keep your speakers controllable from the head unit, you could have a 5 channel to include driving the sub, but I would get a separate amp for that. A 2 channel bridged amp will possibly run front and rears but you won't be able to separate front and rear IE fader.

To surmise -
4" components Front (includes separate tweeter)
4" or 6x9 rear
Sub and enclosure- your can custom make them but will require the correct size (cu/ft) so buy one that you can
accommodate, not the one that looks good cheap etc
4 channel amp
Mono sub amp

From what you've said you sound competent in wiring it up, but you need to go to a shop, and explain what you want and look at the options. Listen to them if poss and importantly buy a balanced system. I doubt very much you'll want anything more than a 10 " sub, as they will give you a more punchy definite sound. (the cone reacts to each beat as opposed to blurring into the next) It is as complicated as you want it to be. Find something you like the sound of and be consistent. Oh and Dynamat first- you'll retain the sound in the vehicle, worth every penny, would almost say in a landrover its more important than your speakers.
Post #207863 2nd Feb 2013 11:48pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Him, you're a legend exactly what I was after. Smile
Post #207870 3rd Feb 2013 12:23am
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
Tiger wrote:
Big Cry That's no fun Ken, how am I supposed to learn.


You learn by having a friend along side you plus at times with proper cable routing it pays to have an extra pair of hands Thumbs Up

Good luck
Post #207886 3rd Feb 2013 8:15am
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Ken, you're not far from me Whistle
Post #207888 3rd Feb 2013 8:20am
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
Come to the warehouse in London and I'd gladly assist you Thumbs Up
Post #207900 3rd Feb 2013 8:55am
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
As would I or Steve I'm sure Thumbs Up
Post #207909 3rd Feb 2013 9:26am
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Right going off Jim's pointers

Would this work?

In all cases using decent speaker wire and correctly rated power cable and fused as it should be.

Front components Focal 100 KRS - 10cm woofer for front under dash and tweeters on dash top as per Puma to get high notes sang at high level not my knees. (These could also be placed in the top corner head lining.)
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/10402.html

Mount the crossovers under the dash. One by the 10AS the other by wiper motor.

4 wire per side from crossover to speakers (8 in total)

4 wires back to a 4 channel amp from crossovers. (+L +R -L -R)

Rear Co-ax In the rear, bin the 6x9 idea and just go for decent Co-ax under the rear qtr lights. (Focal: PC100)
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/15801.html

Again 4 wires back to a 4 channel amp from speakers (+L +R -L -R)

Active Sub mounted to back of cubby. (Kenwood: KSC-SW01)
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/12542.html

3 wires back to Head Unit (Power control and +L-R going to Headunit Sub RCA outs)
2 power (+ with inline 10a Fuse & GND)

Amp Kenwood: KAC-7405 - 4-channel Amplifier
Mounted under the middle row seats.

4 pairs of Speaker cable leaving it for rear co-ax and front crossovers.
Power control looped into the Pcon from the active sub (which goes back to HU)
Power with +15a Fuse and GND
4 x Line in RCA cables that run back to HU

Head Unit Kenwood KDC-BT92SD
http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/kdc-bt92sd-car-radio

How's that stack up?

Can't see how you match speaker impedance to amps?

Also would plan to sound proof galore.
This would be:

Dynamat in all 4 front doors and closed cell foam if there's room.
Dynamat front and middle row footwells, then carpet and rubber mats.
Dynamat then Foil backed roofers bitumen on the gearbox tunnel
Part Dynamat the roof to remove resonance and then closed cell foam to the bulk and egg box foam as per GoBeyonds
Foil backed roofers bitumen to the metal in the rear and rear door, then carpets, then stable floor mat for the large square.

That should keep me busy Thumbs Up
Post #207937 3rd Feb 2013 10:46am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

United Kingdom 
Tiger - Although I've heard good things about the Kenwood active sub
this one



is twice the power and I've been really pleased with the brand myself. It's also a nice square design to match the cubby shape. But maybe worth checking dimensions. Even then If it doesn't fit it can be made to fit quite easily.

Just an idea for you. If I was choosing for myself this is the active sub I;d go for. More power wattage = richer sound. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #207949 3rd Feb 2013 11:22am
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