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mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 |
I wouldn't bother with the 6x9s unless you want to change the rear 10s for 6x9s then one amp will power all four speakers and the sub (if active) is allready amped.
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2nd Feb 2013 5:48pm |
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ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 |
My advice is don't do it if your not competent to do it
Idiots / dummies guide won't cover enough items So get a friend who knows what they are doing . |
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2nd Feb 2013 5:50pm |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
That's no fun Ken, how am I supposed to learn.
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2nd Feb 2013 5:52pm |
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mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 |
Ken's right, if you don't know about electrics and make a mistake you could end up burning your pride and joy to the ground.
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2nd Feb 2013 6:07pm |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
I have rebuilt a 110 from the ground up. I'm not bad at spannering and electricery.
Just don't get crossovers and amps. |
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2nd Feb 2013 6:08pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441 |
Ken's right there. Trouble is a lot of it is very time consuming so having someone else to spare the time is a fair ask really.
Unless you wanted me too.... Amp / active sub wiring is fairly straight forward if you ask me it's just a case of using the correct grade of items with the correct cable and fuse rating. Hardest most time consuming part is fitting and routing the cables. Then of course you need all the kit and bit's and pieces ready to fit there and then. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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2nd Feb 2013 8:08pm |
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barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1423 |
Simple terms -
Speaker wise your front footwell 10cm speakers want to be components with a crossover that will then separate the mid range and high range to then drive your tweeters. Thus only requiring 2 wires to drive both speakers. Rear you either want 10 cm expensive( for quality sound) or 6x9 you won't need both. A 4 Chanel amp will keep your speakers controllable from the head unit, you could have a 5 channel to include driving the sub, but I would get a separate amp for that. A 2 channel bridged amp will possibly run front and rears but you won't be able to separate front and rear IE fader. To surmise - 4" components Front (includes separate tweeter) 4" or 6x9 rear Sub and enclosure- your can custom make them but will require the correct size (cu/ft) so buy one that you can accommodate, not the one that looks good cheap etc 4 channel amp Mono sub amp From what you've said you sound competent in wiring it up, but you need to go to a shop, and explain what you want and look at the options. Listen to them if poss and importantly buy a balanced system. I doubt very much you'll want anything more than a 10 " sub, as they will give you a more punchy definite sound. (the cone reacts to each beat as opposed to blurring into the next) It is as complicated as you want it to be. Find something you like the sound of and be consistent. Oh and Dynamat first- you'll retain the sound in the vehicle, worth every penny, would almost say in a landrover its more important than your speakers. |
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2nd Feb 2013 11:48pm |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
Him, you're a legend exactly what I was after.
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3rd Feb 2013 12:23am |
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ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 |
You learn by having a friend along side you plus at times with proper cable routing it pays to have an extra pair of hands Good luck |
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3rd Feb 2013 8:15am |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
Ken, you're not far from me
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3rd Feb 2013 8:20am |
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ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 |
Come to the warehouse in London and I'd gladly assist you
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3rd Feb 2013 8:55am |
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barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1423 |
As would I or Steve I'm sure
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3rd Feb 2013 9:26am |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
Right going off Jim's pointers
Would this work? In all cases using decent speaker wire and correctly rated power cable and fused as it should be. Front components Focal 100 KRS - 10cm woofer for front under dash and tweeters on dash top as per Puma to get high notes sang at high level not my knees. (These could also be placed in the top corner head lining.) http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/10402.html Mount the crossovers under the dash. One by the 10AS the other by wiper motor. 4 wire per side from crossover to speakers (8 in total) 4 wires back to a 4 channel amp from crossovers. (+L +R -L -R) Rear Co-ax In the rear, bin the 6x9 idea and just go for decent Co-ax under the rear qtr lights. (Focal: PC100) http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/15801.html Again 4 wires back to a 4 channel amp from speakers (+L +R -L -R) Active Sub mounted to back of cubby. (Kenwood: KSC-SW01) http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/12542.html 3 wires back to Head Unit (Power control and +L-R going to Headunit Sub RCA outs) 2 power (+ with inline 10a Fuse & GND) Amp Kenwood: KAC-7405 - 4-channel Amplifier Mounted under the middle row seats. 4 pairs of Speaker cable leaving it for rear co-ax and front crossovers. Power control looped into the Pcon from the active sub (which goes back to HU) Power with +15a Fuse and GND 4 x Line in RCA cables that run back to HU Head Unit Kenwood KDC-BT92SD http://www.justkenwood.co.uk/car-audio.aspx/kdc-bt92sd-car-radio How's that stack up? Can't see how you match speaker impedance to amps? Also would plan to sound proof galore. This would be: Dynamat in all 4 front doors and closed cell foam if there's room. Dynamat front and middle row footwells, then carpet and rubber mats. Dynamat then Foil backed roofers bitumen on the gearbox tunnel Part Dynamat the roof to remove resonance and then closed cell foam to the bulk and egg box foam as per GoBeyonds Foil backed roofers bitumen to the metal in the rear and rear door, then carpets, then stable floor mat for the large square. That should keep me busy |
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3rd Feb 2013 10:46am |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441 |
Tiger - Although I've heard good things about the Kenwood active sub
this one is twice the power and I've been really pleased with the brand myself. It's also a nice square design to match the cubby shape. But maybe worth checking dimensions. Even then If it doesn't fit it can be made to fit quite easily. Just an idea for you. If I was choosing for myself this is the active sub I;d go for. More power wattage = richer sound. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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3rd Feb 2013 11:22am |
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