 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Air Con upgrade? |
 
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| BruceT Member Since: 01 Nov 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 517  
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hehe true. "Overlanding With Bruce" - Youtube https://www.youtube.com/@OverlandingwithBruce 11MY Defender 130 23MY Defender 110 D300 HSE X-Dynamic https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzrHKcjA-LJ470_H4QwPgVA |
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18th Jan 2013 1:07pm |
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| SteveS Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Devon & Berkshire Posts: 388  
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On my utility I have segregated the passenger cell and the load area with a thermal curtain which sits on the load/dog guard. At least then what precious cold air that there is is used to cool me and not a bunch of tools/boxes in the back. This roughly halves the volume to be cooled. For this I bought a £20 black roller blind with a metallised inner layer and then cut to size, added some velcro attachment points and then i put it in place. Going to the Sahara in a few months so I will get it out of the box as i never need to use it in the UK.
Other things that you could do is to mount a board or cover the roof rack (ie maxtrax or RTT) over the passenger cell to stop the direct heat of the sun beating on the roof (ie it is shaded). Won't do anything for ambient temp but every little helps. |
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19th Jan 2013 10:15am |
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| SteveS Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Devon & Berkshire Posts: 388
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Aluminium is a better conductor true but this really relates to the ease with which heat is transmitted quickly from point A to point B. So Alli will heat up (and cool down) quicker than steel but both will get to local ambient at some point. Whether steel or alli, insulation is what is needed - something that distances the hot from the cold - air bubbles (closed cell foam), layers, fibres, plastics etc or reflects the hot or cold away - matallized polyester, foil, etc. |
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19th Jan 2013 10:24am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Insulate behind the trim, roof lining and carpet and seal the factory fitted gaps in the panels and you should stay a lot cooler as the suns heat won't get in as much and your air conditioned air won't get out as much.
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19th Jan 2013 10:24am |
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| heinrichnel Member Since: 07 Apr 2010 Location: Windhoek, Namibia Posts: 42  
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So no-one has tried to fit a larger compressor?
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21st Jan 2013 7:01am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2625 
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Hmm, I doubt you'll find the space, the engine bay is very cramped as it is -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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21st Jan 2013 7:02am |
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| yobbie Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Isle of Wight Posts: 712  
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I put my missus on the back of a motorbike for a trip into the Karoo (over 40c wearing bike gear) who needs air con. 
Click image to enlarge On a serious note my air con wasn't great until I had a regas but it's much better now. |
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21st Jan 2013 8:47pm |
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| AndyS Member Since: 18 Aug 2012 Location: London Posts: 595 
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Tinted windows is said to help a lot, as does duct-taping up all the gaps in the front bulkhead, stops hot air leaking in through gaps.
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21st Jan 2013 9:18pm |
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| jasong4110 Member Since: 18 Oct 2009 Location: Henley On Thames Posts: 268 
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Different system I know, but I was in Spain this summer at +42c I have been in this type of temp before and the A/C was not great however this year I had insulated the floor and seat box and on top of my tinted rear windows I fitted insulated blinds this year.
It made a massive difference and helped the A/C cope as most of the cab heat is generated from the floor and not from the outside. Since then I have insulated the rest of the truck and judging by the heat it now retains then I hope it will make a huge difference. Regards, Jason. |
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21st Jan 2013 11:38pm |
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| BruceT Member Since: 01 Nov 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 517
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lol@yobbie
How did you insulate your truck? I have tinted windows and although i dont feel i have a major problem there is always room for improvement. I suppose i am still used to traveling in a TD5 where my knees were nice and cool....
Thank you. "Overlanding With Bruce" - Youtube https://www.youtube.com/@OverlandingwithBruce 11MY Defender 130 23MY Defender 110 D300 HSE X-Dynamic https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzrHKcjA-LJ470_H4QwPgVA |
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22nd Jan 2013 5:37am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Closed cell foam behind all the trim and seal all the seams you can.
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22nd Jan 2013 10:18am |
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| jasong4110 Member Since: 18 Oct 2009 Location: Henley On Thames Posts: 268
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Two layers of closed cell foam taped with foil tape:
Jason. |
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22nd Jan 2013 1:18pm |
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| BruceT Member Since: 01 Nov 2010 Location: South Africa Posts: 517
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Jeez, thats awesome......I probably wont go that far but would be keen on doing the front half of the truck.
Your truck must also be quieter? What product did you use? "Overlanding With Bruce" - Youtube https://www.youtube.com/@OverlandingwithBruce 11MY Defender 130 23MY Defender 110 D300 HSE X-Dynamic https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzrHKcjA-LJ470_H4QwPgVA |
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22nd Jan 2013 1:28pm |
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| jasong4110 Member Since: 18 Oct 2009 Location: Henley On Thames Posts: 268
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I had only done the front of the truck for our Spain trip this year it did make a huge difference I hadn't done inside the seat boxes at that point and you could feel the difference between the floor and the seat box. I have now insulated inside both seat boxes and it has made a big difference, sound wise it has made a massive difference, I didn't think my truck was that bad but realised how much better it can be, I can have a conversation without raised voices at 70mph. For the insulation I used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILITARY-LAND-RO...4ac0886242 two and a half kits so cost me around £45 including the tape. Jason. |
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22nd Jan 2013 1:39pm |
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