 | Home > In Car Electronics > The definitive SATNAV thread |
 
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686  |
To be honest I can't remember, though I do remember not having to make any additional holes if that makes any sense?????? I did however nearly remove the dash so that I could add a couple of mods in the dead space including a subsidiary fuse box plus the cables for the satnav and ultragauge.
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27th Dec 2012 3:44pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418 
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Lorryman - That's good to hear.. I have a hardwire kit on it's way from the US for my Garmin 1300T as I was sick of A. having the wires hanging around and B. having the plug getting in the way of 5th gear.
Very nice and neat by the way. May I ask where you hard wired into? I was thinking of using the cigarette lighter positive and negative seeing as it was it's original power source and it doesn't have a high draw. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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27th Dec 2012 3:48pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
I hard wired it into the subsidiary fuse box on the ignition side protected with a 5 amp fuse, one of these:
http://www.nippynormans.com/products/f650s...el-fuz-fz1 It is small enough to hide away and it only powers a few low draw items, satnav, toughbooks 12v power supply and a couple of other bits 
Using the cigarette lighter would be a good option though I would definitely put an additional inline fuse between the cigarette lighters 12v supply and the satnav, as the cigarette lighters 12v supply is of a much higher amperage than the satnavs needs. |
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27th Dec 2012 4:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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True, Easy to forget that the Sat Nav has a fuse in the plug on top of the lighter socket having it's own much higher rated fuse. I don't think the Sat Nav uses hardly and Amp or two let alone 15A or what ever the fuse is for the ciggarette socket. I was think of rather than butchering the LR's original lighter socket wiring I was going to add a small section to the existing plugs (using appropriate wire) using spade terminals and the other end plugs into the socket terminals like normal only extended. If that makes sense... And tap into the extension wires for the sat nav power and earth feeds. In effect it could then just be un-plugged if ever required rather than being truely permanently wired into the Defender electrics. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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27th Dec 2012 4:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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Also forgot to mention..
What in-line fuse holder type would you recommend. The normal blade fuse holders I normally use I think would be a tad OTT for this purpose. Thanks again Brian. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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27th Dec 2012 4:26pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
That would work a treat. Infact you could also just as easily go direct to the under steering vehicle fuse box and take an appropriate fused feed direct from there.
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27th Dec 2012 4:28pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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True, I didn't realise you could? I think I'll stick to my original plans though seeing as I have it pre-planned in my head at least.
 Un-like yourself I can't think of anything else I will use from the cigarette lighter power other than the Sat Nav.
Perhaps a mini fuse holder such as this one for the power feed protection (Will have to look up the appropriate fuse rating: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-Heavy...19c969ea33 $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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27th Dec 2012 4:36pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
Any in line glass fused holder will do the trick. Personally I would go for the splash proof one below (30mm glass fuses rated continuous at either 1 or 2.5 amps), not for the fact it is splash proof but because it allows you to connect your own wiring direct without the need for additional cable joins found with the traditional inline holders that have a short length of wiring attached.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...lders3.php And these 30mm glass catridge fuses: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-....php#glass |
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27th Dec 2012 4:37pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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Smaller too. I shall look into that then.
It will probably take a while to arrive from the US so I'll report back then. Providing I remember too. 
Thank-you. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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27th Dec 2012 4:41pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
If you melt anything, please don't blame me............
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27th Dec 2012 4:47pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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I'd never do that Brian. After all your one of the forum electrical experts.
I find these things more difficult to describe than actually to do. Piece of cake to do..
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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27th Dec 2012 4:51pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
It is a doddle, remember the manly fingers to remove the dash fascia, Grrrrrrr
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27th Dec 2012 4:55pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20418
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Can't say I do? It absolutely amazes me how easily a lot of people get confused about the whole wiring system. I swear many would think nothing of grounding power wires.  I wouldn't mind betting a lot of young drivers insurance policys are voided by in-correct wiring causing fire. When I first got my 90 the relay for the spots was wired so the battery was powering the coil constantly! Draining the battery after a couple of days and the main beam feed for the headlights was actually powering the spots too. Fuse was near the relay in the engine bay and nothing near the battery and to add to the the fuse that was there wasn't waterproof either. To add to that LR sold it on like that without checking so I sorted it out myself. (Along with the help of K9F)
 $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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27th Dec 2012 5:19pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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That's a classic symptom of the internal battery failing on these units. If kept charged then it's not a problem. If allowed to go flat though then 12v struggles to charge it properly and the unit keeps rebooting. Charging from the mains can usually resuscitate it but the long term fix is to replace the battery, which is doable albeit fiddly. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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28th Dec 2012 8:09am |
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