 | Home > Expedition & Overland > Which hi-lift for overlanding - 2'' lifted 2.4 90? |
 
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| yaho Member Since: 26 Nov 2008 Location: Bialystok Posts: 200   
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Excuse me if placed in wrong forum.
I have been looking at the manufacturer's website and I am a bit lost - too many types and sizes to choose from. What do you recommend for 2'' lifted Puma 90? It will be used in overlanding, casual greenlaning etc. not in competitions. Compact size/weight is appreciated. Cheers! Janusz www.yahodeville.com |
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31st Oct 2012 2:49pm |
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| farmer giles Member Since: 09 Feb 2011 Location: worcestershire Posts: 1299 
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i'm sure devon 4x4 would give you a good recommendation.
i have a 4' hi lift that is fine for a standard height 90 but might struggle with a lifted one. best recommendation is to get someone experienced to show you how to use one safely if you have never used one before. i will always use my bottle jack rather than the high lift |
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31st Oct 2012 3:19pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 
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The most common size is the 4ft (or 1200mm). Longer ones are available, and can be handy if using as a hand winch, but they're generally more of a nuisance to store.
If I were in the market for one, I'd go for a genuine 'Hi-Lift'. You can buy cheaper copies but you tend to get what you pay for, or you can get a Jackall. The latter is very good (better than a Hi-Lift in some repects) but suffers from lack of compatibility with some of the handy add-ons that are available. Hi-Lift also seem to favour producing more expensive 'special editions' every so often, but as these merely seem to consist of a standard jack in a different colour, I wouldn't bother. I like hi-lift jacks. When used correctly they are a very versatile piece of kit. They can be dangerous though, so make sure you know what you're doing before using one on anger. The most obvious thing is to make sure that the handle is always in the upright position when under load, otherwise it can ratchet down and swing like a club hammer. Also bear in mind that they're not particularly stable. This can a be a real advantage in some circumstances, but changing a flat tyre isn't one of them. It's also worth thinking about how you will store and transport it. These things are heavy, so you don't just want it lying loose in the back. Bolted to the outside somewhere can be handy and looks very 'lets off-road', but it will suffer from corrosion unless protected in some way. You used to be able to buy a large plastic case for them some years ago, but they don't seem to be available anymore. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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31st Oct 2012 3:22pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Have to congratulate you LRA, what a concise, informative answer
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31st Oct 2012 3:36pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391 
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I would always go for a genuine Hilift and no other make. I have both 4' and 6' jacks and the 6' stays in the workshop - it is simply too big to carry easily except on the roofrack. The 4' is more than adequate for any normal eventuality unless you are extreme off-roading.
If you are concerned about not having enough lift to get a wheel off the ground with a 4' on a lifted truck or one with trick suspension, make sure that you have a strap, strop or chain you can put round the axle and a suitable point on the chassis prior to lifting. That way you don't have to accomodate the suspension travel with the lift. It also allows you to lift one wheel on an axle leaving the other firmly on the ground for safe wheel-changing. There are many on this forum who will tell you a hilift is "dangerous" when in practice it isn't, it is the preson using it who is the danger. Use it sensibly and it is one of the most capable tools you can take with you. Edit - bear in mind too that a 4' fits just perfectly across the back of the middle-row seat footwell in a 110 SW or DC and can be anchored to the seat base brackets. |
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31st Oct 2012 3:38pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Why, thank you sir  Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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31st Oct 2012 3:53pm |
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| yaho Member Since: 26 Nov 2008 Location: Bialystok Posts: 200
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Thank you good people!
I know what to look for now. Janusz www.yahodeville.com |
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31st Oct 2012 5:02pm |
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| JeremyJ Member Since: 16 Nov 2011 Location: Aylesbury Posts: 1758
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Being difficult here, but having got a genuine HiLift and a Jackall that is getting on a fair bit, I really do prefer the Jackall.
Mine is atleast 15 years old, gets the occaional rub down with oil and has been perfect. I find the HiLift hasnt aged as well despit being newer. Obviously the HiLift has the fancy name though... |
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31st Oct 2012 5:12pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391
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Jackall and hilift are both excellent, it's the others you want to avoid (usually originating from China). Hilift tend to be cast/forged construction, Jackall stamped/forged. Nothing to choose between them, just personal preference really.
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31st Oct 2012 5:50pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581
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Hi Lift Jack or not too?
A few points, IF you decide to go for one get a good one, such as the Hi Lift Jack The standard 48" Hi Lift jack cost about £65 so is not mega money. Be wary of chinese copies! IF you are going to carry one on an overland trip, carry it INSIDE the vehicle, put it in a bag preferably padded and definitely FASTEN down. Learn how to use the HiLift jack in a safe manner. Carry it outside it stands a very good chance of getting rusty and dirty which is not good from a use point of view and definitely not from a safety point of view. From an overland point of view is a Hi Lift Jack essential? In my opinion not. I would recommend at least two means of being able to jack up your vehicle, carry a folding axle stand as well and when changing a wheel use the axle stand as well as the jack. Also carry some base plates for the jacks/axle stand Also carry a decent shovel, the tri fold shovel is good for burying No 2's but is a bit small for digging out ruts or mud from underneath chassis rails Brendan |
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2nd Nov 2012 8:31pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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Brendan speaks good sense there. A winch is far more useful than a hi-lift generally speaking. I see hi-lifts bolted on to the rear of defenders all the time, they're the most dangerous and least used bit of kit out there, and most never get used apart from to change wheels, which they very definitely should not to be used for.
I've never needed a hi-lift in many years of offroad driving and all kinds of countries, terrain etc. The only circumstance I'd ever have one is if I was doing a solo vehicle trip through somewhere like nigeria/cameroon/democratic republic of congo or Kola peninsula. Other than that, would never bother with one, and certainly never for the UK. |
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7th Nov 2012 11:54am |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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A winch is indeed useful, but not a very good substitute for a hilift jack if you want it for jacking purposes ....
And why must you never use a hilift for changing wheels ? - Agreed, the safest option is a trolley or bottle jack on a flat surface etc etc but not always possible, especially offroad. Used correctly a hilift is an incredibly useful bit of kit that combines a jack and winch into a package that costs sub £70 |
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7th Nov 2012 12:06pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581
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The biggest problem with high lift jacks is most people do NOT KNOW HOW TO USE THEM SAFELY!
No apologies for shouting! How many people know to strap down suspension when jacking a vehicle to change a wheel? How many people will put an axle stand under axle before taking wheel off? Shoving a wheel somewhere under chassis still means movement of vehicle and trapped body parts if things go tits up! At home use a GOOD trolley jack. plus axle stands. In the field a good bottle jack PLUS axle stand plus base plates. If travelling as a solo vehicle have TWO means of jacking the vehicle. Brendan |
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7th Nov 2012 12:25pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Some interesting points raised LOUDLY
 by leeds - what would be the other means of jacking the vehicle that we should take out of interest - two bottle jacks ? |
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7th Nov 2012 12:33pm |
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