couplands wrote:

I'm listening, and you've done a great job..!

I've got 100 quids worth of Dinitrol waiting to do my TD5 90, so pleased to see what others have done.

Planning on doing the heated seats and sound proofing too. Also want a heated screen, so just waiting for your "how to" on that little job...

Cheers

Simon

bob neville wrote:

I'm waiting for the clutch change how to, mine will need doing soon

Bob

Green Machine wrote:

RRUK, don't know if you saw my above post, but I did this literally yesterday and after spending hours fiddling with the spring got it fitted in just a couple of minutes with the correct technique. There is absolutely no need to remove the pedal from the master cylinder. First remove the four screws along the bottom edge of the dashboard, underneath the steering column and remove the metal retaining strip that holds the rubber footwell matting in place. With this removed, you can pull the rubber matting away from the underside of the dash enough to access the existing clutch pedal spring. I used a small screwdriver threaded through the hook of the spring to lever it out. From there it's mainly obvious, fit the bushes to the clutch pedal housing (existing holes on either side) and also the 'U' shaped bush to the slot in the back of the clutch pedal arm.

The really important bit, and where I went wrong yesterday, is to fit the spring into the bush in the back of the clutch pedal BEFORE fitting it into the two holes in either side of the clutch pedal housing. Once the spring is clipped into the bush in the clutch pedal arm, fully depress the clutch and chock it with some wood. Then you can use some needle tipped pliers to clip the two loose ends of the spring into the holes in the bushes in the pedal housing. This last bit is a bit fiddly as you need to put a lot of pressure on the pliers, but it is possible and much, much easier than taking the whole pedal assembly apart. There's no need to do anything in the engine bay, it can all be done from the footwell. Hope that helps and good luck!

My Version:

Well, nothing is ever simple is it? Despite all the great instructions from other people you can bet yours won't go the same way.

Here's how I did mine.

Removed rubber mat and unscrewed the metal retaining strip above the pedals. There are 3 screws on the strip and one more lower dash panel screw towards the door that needs removing so the trim strip will come loose. I had to remove the heater vent to get at one of the screws on the trim.

I also have to remove the door pillar mounted interior light switch plunger, and the lower trim retaining strip, plus the door return plastic cover.

I also then had to unbolt the bonnet release mechanism from the bulkhead as the cable was preventing movement of the rubber matting.

That B d rubber matting! On mine there is a single piece that does the entire bulkhead from door to door, plus a one piece that moulds itself from both floors and over the gearbox tunnel. It is stiff, awkward and total arse to move out of the way, especially with the handbrake being in the way. I only just managed to move it all to the side to get my hands in.

Next, I removed the existing long spring, very easy.

Then I put the bushes in place. The one on the back of the pedal has to click into place and took some right pressure to get it in, I had to use some adjustable pipe wrench pliers to squeeze it in. There was some cursing there too

Next fitting the 2 side bushes. AARRRGGHHH. They were hard, but using a pair of pliers they also popped into place with the aid of some WD40. The one thing I noticed though before I started all of this was when I went to trial fit the spring into the bushes they don't fit. I know its meant to be a tight fit but it looked to me like it was never going to go in. I was tempted to ream them out a bit with a drill but decided to leave them. More on that later.

I popped the spring into the bush on the back of the pedal until it clicked into place (hoping I had it the right way round) and then used a piece of wood to press the clutch in fully and wedge it against the seat box.

Getting the 2 sides of the spring into the bushes wasn't that hard but I am still not convinced they are seated inside enough. Maybe they will work themselves in as time goes on, I tried to press them in further with pliers but it didn't seem to do anything.

So, it's all done and I eventually managed to grapple the damned matting back into place and put back all the trim.

The pedal does seem lighter, and only a proper drive will tell but it's not going anywhere right now until I have done the chassis painting and then waxoyling.

Some pics for you:

The parts required:


Click image to enlarge

Side trim and door plunger removed:


Click image to enlarge

Bushes in place:


Click image to enlarge

Finally done:


Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol

RRUK wrote:

Almost perfect?

What's missing??

Personally I'd carpet behind the seats, and also change the rear floor mat to either checker plate or carpet depending on the uses because I feel it let's the rest down! Apart from that it's brilliant, just what I'm aiming for with my SW

RRUK wrote:

I am not 100% happy with the rear load space floor mat.

I saw at a country/equestrian style store the other day, some very thick heavy Horse stable matting, made in rubber. Its about 15-20mm thick and you can cut it to size. It would look better and provide a little more insulation, but at £46 a sheet I am not sure. Maybe it was a little too thick as there would be a lip at the rear door threshold.