Home > Td5 > injector harness - how to seal? |
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excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5842 |
I replace the section under the rocker cover on mine for a new one from a main dealer and so far (18months plus) its been OK. I didnt seal mine. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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25th Mar 2012 8:05pm |
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T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101 |
with the replacement loom they don't need sealing. Fit the replacement loom and forget......for a while!
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25th Mar 2012 9:13pm |
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yobbie Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Isle of Wight Posts: 712 |
I had mine replaced 2 years ago after only having the Defender a week. I asked if I should maybe carry a spare on long trips, but was told since replacing them he's not had any back as they seem to have improved them.
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25th Mar 2012 9:20pm |
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wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581 |
Once you have oil at the red ECU plug, you will find that even having changed the injector loom, you will still get some oil coming through. Obviously this is because there is still oil on the main engine loom, so give it some time to leak through to the plug and clean it out again. Either Genuine Part or the Allmakes PR2 looms work without modification.
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25th Mar 2012 10:12pm |
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batfink82 Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: UK Posts: 17 |
thanks for the advice - just ordered some parts through JGS 4x4 hope they are decent......
got a slight rubble / vibration at 60mph so I ordered some GKN ujs at the same time that is next weekend taken care of! |
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25th Mar 2012 10:36pm |
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Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Bramhall Posts: 1097 |
Where do I find this ECU and the red plug? Is it the one that's under the drivers seat?
How does oil get into the plug in the first place, does it seep down the wires between the conductor and the insulation? has anyone got any pictures of the contamination to look for? 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV 1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy 1968 S2a 88 aka Bob 2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged. |
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22nd Jul 2012 8:51pm |
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LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 |
Yes: Click image to enlarge
Yes, exactly that. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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22nd Jul 2012 9:04pm |
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Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Bramhall Posts: 1097 |
2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy 1968 S2a 88 aka Bob 2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged. |
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22nd Jul 2012 9:29pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17351 |
Oh yes they do! I had this problem on my TD5 Discovery, which differs from the TD5 defender only in the location of the ECU. The dealer told me that the only rememdy was a new injector harness and engine loom, the former is cheap (£40 or so IIRC) and the latter is very expensive and a hassle (=> £lots) to fit. In the end I bought a new injector harness and did the job myself, very simple to do. Renewing the injector harnes involves removing the acoustic hood (if fitted) and the camshaft cover, it is then obvious how to remove and replace the harness. The engine loom can generally be saved. Clean the connectors with a suitable degreaser (I used denatured alcohol followed by brake cleaner), and it is also a help if you have a source of compressed air to blow the oil out and dry the connectors. The oil in the engine loom will continue to emerge at the ECU connector for a couple of weeks after you have fixed the problem, so it is worth cleaning this end each week until it stops. The ECU itself can be removed from the car and cleaned (alcohol followed by brake cleaner worked for me). There was so much oil on mine that I decided to open it up to check inside, and a small amount of oil had made it into the ECU. Again, alcohol and brake cleaner, but observe static handling precautions when dealing with the internals. Afterwards everything has been fine (for 7 years and nearly 200,000 miles), but read the bit below carefully! Important note - why the problem occurs in the first place: Many articles I have read about this oil-in-the-harness problem have said that the root cause is oil migrating from the cambox past the connector shell sealing O-rings into the engine harness (and I believe that the only change to the later harness connectors was to the O-rings). Certainly in the case of my car, this was not the problem, and there was no evidence whatsoever of oil making it past the O-rings. The oil actually migrates past the connector pins inside the connector shell, since there is no sealing whatsoever there. The connector shell itself is arranged vertically pointing downwards, and therefore fills with oil which has nowhere to go except to seep past the pins. To compound the problem, it will then emerge into the female part of the connector which delivers it straight into the conductors of each wire in the engine harness with the result that the insulation of each condutor in effect forms a miniature hosepipe to the ECU. This is of course very sloppy design - the designer should have specified a properly sealed connector system for this application, of which there are many. However the result of this is that if you simply replace the injector harness with a new one, even if you seal round the outside of the connector before fitting it, it is only a matter of time before you have the problem again. The only permanent cure is to fill the connector shell of the new harness completely with a suitable oil-resistant silicon sealant so that the shell is completely sealed to prevent oil ingress into the connector in the first place. Do this, and you will never have further problems (well, I haven't in nearly 200k miles). Hope this helps! |
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22nd Jul 2012 9:29pm |
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K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 |
A word of caution some silicon sealants can be electrically conductive therefore ensure the sealant you are using is fit for purpose. Better still use an electrical potting compound to be sure.
Something akin to: http://www.intertronics.co.uk/products/irs2013.htm If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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23rd Jul 2012 4:41am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17351 |
Excellent advice, K9, why didn't I think of that!
Actually I used a silicon I had to hand (I forget exactly what) which I knew to be non-conducting. It's been ok for over 150K miles since, but if anyone else is doing this a potting compound would be a better bet. |
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23rd Jul 2012 9:23am |
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K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 |
Even as a sparky you get caught out sometimes. I did just last week with the very same issue... Did an insulation check on a switch I had sealed into a top hat assembly to keep the water out and inadvertantly shorted out the contacts myself by using what I had to hand. Had to dig it all out use gasket cleaner and repot again! I know I keep banging on about this stuff but Sikaflex 29I in not electrically conductive and is marine grade. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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23rd Jul 2012 11:04am |
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ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731 |
Go Sikaflex! Whooooo Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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23rd Jul 2012 1:25pm |
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Yorkshire90 Member Since: 22 Sep 2011 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 193 |
Renaming my 90 Sikaflex... I must have absorbed so much into my body I could bounce to the frikking moon! "Big green" 2000 Td5 90 IRB Developments modified (2004-2011) Discovery 3 TDv6 GS Auto 2011-2012 *Missed the Defender too much* IRB Developments rebuild: Project Ice cube 2012-...... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic11056.html |
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23rd Jul 2012 10:06pm |
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