 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear Diff pinion oil seal |
 
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| Def90Ian Member Since: 05 Jul 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 6   
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Hi,
I have searched for this topic - so sorry if I missed a previous post and it has been done to death before but.... Just got under my 90 HT and noticed a leak from between the prop shaft and the rear diff casing. Searching the tinternet I found a post on another forum which showed images on how to remove and refit the seal. This post showed the Flange centre nut as a castleated nut and split pin. However, when I spoke to my main dealer spares guy he said that the Puma Flanges are retained with a bolt. I want to fit the seal myself but are there issues to be aware of in doing this on a Puma. E.g. Alignment, Tension issues or is it a case of: Drain Diff Unbolt the PropShaft Remove Flange bolt Remove Flange Extract broken oil seal Replace in reverse order Any help, tips advice very gratefully received. Ian |
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5th Jul 2012 11:36am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387  
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Make yourself up a tool to hold the flange to stop it from rotating when you undo the retaining bolt (alternatively put two longish bolts each with two nuts in two adjacent holes on the flange and use a breaker bar). It is not good practice to rely upon the axle components to hold the flange. Use the same tool when refitting the bolt, torque it to the correct figure and use thread locker on it.
The centre bolt is an ISO M12 thread and you may find, if you have to fit a new flange as well as the seal, that the new flange is a tight fit on the splines. If this is the case, fit a length of M12 threaded rod in the bolt hole, and use a nut and spacer to pull the flange into place, do not drift it on since doing so will push the pinion into the crownwheel, displace the outer pinion bearing, and probably wreck the new seal. As already posted, you don't need to drain the oil (although a small amount may drip out form the pinion bearings during the job) but you will need to top the oil up afterwards. You don't need to remove the propshaft, just unbolt the end from the diff and tie the shaft up out of the way (it's a good opportunity to grease the UJs properly while the shaft is disconnected, since you can articulate the joints fully). Oh, and a final point if you do have to change the pinion flange - the design has changed fairly recently: until recently there was a spacer between the flange and the inner race of the outer pinion bearing, this spacer is now integral with the flange. If you buy a new OEM flange and it is longer than the old one, fish the spacer out and discard it. |
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5th Jul 2012 3:54pm |
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| Def90Ian Member Since: 05 Jul 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 6
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Thanks guys for the answers.
I hope that it is just the seal that needs replacing and not the flange as well. I have read that one possible cause is that the breather valve may be blocked, I have just got back under the truck to check these out. Having had a series 3 in the past I was expecting a brass valve on top of the axle but instead found a soft plastic pipe that is routed under the car along the chassis and up into the left hand side of the engine. Along its way it meets a similar pipe coming from the front axle. For those in the know this will be a dumb question but is this correct or do I have some wading kit fitted? Cheers, Ian Defender 90 HardTop in Keswick Green |
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5th Jul 2012 4:31pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248  
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Standard
Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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5th Jul 2012 5:03pm |
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| Def90Ian Member Since: 05 Jul 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 6
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Are these breather pipes easy to disconnect? I read everywhere that it is worth checking that the breather is not blocked. Do these simply pull off / push on.
Also, can anyone give me the tourqe settings for the propshaft bolts and the flange bolt please for refitting? Landy is a 2010 90 Hard top Puma. Cheers, Ian Defender 90 HardTop in Keswick Green |
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6th Jul 2012 8:18am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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The latest type of breather (the plastic ones) just pull out of the axle, and push back in.
It is worth periodically pulling them off and blowing down them to check they're clear; if they are OK is should be easy to blow through. Also take a wire or small screwdriver and check the fitting in the axle-tube is clear, you should be able to feel the halfshaft inside. |
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6th Jul 2012 9:53am |
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