ralton wrote:

It's been a while since i've been here and i don't see any recent discussion on this:
What is the latest on blanking the EGR? Has the "engine light comes on" problem been solved? How do i go about doing this in SA? Cheers

Ralton, I have done it via a BAS remap. Not cheap - close to R6K - but well worth it.

I re-upload the factory map before I send it to the dealer.

I also have 2 maps from BAS - one performance, which I use everyday, and one factory with EGR-shut which I use when overlanding. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

ralton wrote:

Thanks Naks
So you haven't actually blanked the EGR, you've got software that keeps the EGR colsed?

I've actually blanked EGR without remap. What I did - fitted 3 blanks (outlet manifold, EGR inlet, EGR outlet), removed EGR cooler with it's pipes with 2 tees, fitted EGR directly to engine (i.e. without EGR cooler). Electrical connection in place and EGR works. No faults (about thousand km).
This mod was made on several Defenders here in Russia with no problems/faults so far. One of benefits of such mod is better working cooling system because of replacing of tees (that's 90 degree pipe connections in cooling system is no good). Really in winter heater blows warm air longer on idling then before mod was done.
Of course firstly I cleaned and greased EGR.

I have a picture how EGR fitted back without cooler - it connects to engine (where EGR cooler was) with grey metal plate.

Click image to enlarge
Cheers Puma 110

Denis wrote:

I've actually blanked EGR without remap. What I did - fitted 3 blanks (outlet manifold, EGR inlet, EGR outlet), removed EGR cooler with it's pipes with 2 tees, fitted EGR directly to engine (i.e. without EGR cooler). Electrical connection in place and EGR works. No faults (about thousand km).

Denis,

if I understand you correctly, the EGR is still connected to the engine, but no exhaust gases goes through? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Naks wrote:

the EGR is still connected to the engine, but no exhaust gases goes through?

LandRoverAnorak wrote:

The EGR valve is an emissions control measure. The purpose is to reduce Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx).  Undernormal combustion, Nitrogen(N2)Oxygen (O2) in the air and hydrocarbons (HC) in the fuel combine into water(H2O) Carbon dioxide (CO2) and the Nitrogen remains unchanged.  Under very hot combustion temperatures, the Nitrogen reacts with the other two byproducts and forms Nitrogen oxide (NO).  After being released into the atmosphere, it picks up another Oxygen and becomes Nitrogen dioxide (NO2).  In the presence of sunlight, it combines with other compounds like Hydrocarbons and forms Smog.  Since exhaust gas is inert (very stable) it doesn’t burn again.  So by being introduced into the combustion chamber, it will lower combustion chamber temps enough so that the Nitrogen doesn’t react with the other compounds and is passed unchanged out the exhaust thus not contributing to smog.  

The problem is that exhaust gas also contains soot, which can clog up the inlet manifold. The valve itself can also be an obstruction in the inlet pipe work depending on the installation, which is never good. As NOx isn't tested for at MOT time, it's no big deal to remove (or deactivate) it, although there are probably some polar bears who'd disagree.

Makes sense what your saying. As a comment above what is the improvement MPG or performance or both? It seems obvious to me that putting re-circ gasses back through isn't a great thing