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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Repaint/repair bubbled panels
Hi,

I have various areas on my TD5 where the paint has bubbled.

I wondered what is the best (DIY) way to repair these.

I'd be interested in the technique and where to source the paint & primer needed.

cheers

simon
Post #137490 6th Apr 2012 6:01pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
No answers in a day so I'll have a stab Embarassed

If this is only the Aluminum parts I don't know of any product that will stop it, it's a case of rubbing down, maybe filling, etch primer and paints coats! It will inevitably come through again Sad but will look neater in the meantime, many don't bother. I didn't on the back door of my TD5, doesn't stop it working and will last years like that Thumbs Up . Once it gets really bad you can then maybe justify new skins/doors and a respray Thumbs Up

Someone may know of something that will stop ali corroding that you can paint over!
Post #137673 7th Apr 2012 4:26pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2637

Scotland 
The problem is the bimetallic electrolytic corrosion between the dissimilar steel and aluminium panels.

In their wisdom Land Rover put no barrier layer between these materials at the points in the body where they are touching (door frames, 110 C-pillars, body cappings etc.), combine this will massively reduced steel and aluminium quality/thickness on later models and a propensity for holding damp, and you get awful corrosion coming through on vehicles less than five years old. I've noticed it worst on Td5 era and newer, though Tdi era cars suffer with it too. In the pre-Tdi days the materials were much thicker and they fared better, though there will still be corrosion as they will all have been around the block a few times!

The only way to properly stop it is to remove the aluminium skin from the door, or remove the offending panel, insert a barrier layer between it and the other piece it's reacting with (thick rubberised paint, Duralac, thin PVC sheeting etc.) and then re-assemble. Then you can sand back the outer ali to bare metal, etch prime, high-build prime, and paint.

Anything less than that will result in a temporary fix, as the corrosion will just come up through the new paint.

This is why when I eventually get around to putting my 110 back together, I will be doing my utmost to separate the steel and aluminium bodywork components from touching.
Post #137677 7th Apr 2012 4:45pm
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Thanks for the answers guys.

I'll try some repairs and see how it goes.

Any recommendations for suppliers of the paint/primer..?

cheers

simon
Post #137738 7th Apr 2012 10:14pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
I bought a can of etch primer from Halfrauds Shocked Thud If you were closer you could have had whats left! I only used it for one Td5 window hinge, must be able to get it cheaper elsewhere. A good paint place will match paint for you or buy it in or you could buy an aerosol kit from LR if they have stock and your not doing a big area. someone will have better leads than me Thumbs Up
Post #137757 8th Apr 2012 8:04am
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