BruceT wrote:

Hi Paul,

Been batteling with this as I dont want to rip out all the wiring I have already done. Can I wire the switch up like this:

Pin 1 = 12V+ power in (on with parking lights)
Pin 2 = Switch illumination
Pin 3 = Earth
Pin 4 = Switched power out (to driving lights relay)
Pin 5 = 12V+ supply for telltale (from the driving lights when on)

Thank you.

Hi Bruce,

No, you can't wire the switch like that, for two reasons -

1: The Illumination and Tell-Tale are LEDs and will only work in one direction.

2: Pin-3 and Pin-4 are commoned.


However...

You can easily modify the switch's internals to make it switch as you want

This is what the switch looks like inside (bad photo alert )

Here's a picture of the inside of the switch, which I've annotated with the terminal numbers and to show how the contacts connect accross pins 1 & 4 when in the ON position -


Click image to enlarge



This is a close-up of the switch's circuit -


Click image to enlarge



It's easy to convert this switch to a conventional live switching ON/OFF switch by cutting the brass track between the two holes, as marked in red in this next picture (I've use a Needle File to do this on the ones that I've modified) -


Click image to enlarge



By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4

The revised circuit is now -

Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights (as applicable)

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination

Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs)

Pin 4 - Switched Live output to Terminal 86 of your Relay

Pin 5 - Live in from Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED)


You could link pins 4 & 5 inside the switch while you had it apart, by soldering a link across the brass tracks but I would just crimp an extra short length of cable into Pin 4 and loop it round into Pin 5 on the connector.

You will still need to use an accessory relay with a switch modified in this way but, at least it will be wired in a conventional manner.


Paul.

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

BruceT wrote:

Thanks Paul..

What do you mean by accessory relay? Is this the spot relay?

BruceT wrote:

Paul I owe you many, many cold ones if you are ever in South Africa. Got it working and very chuffed. Thank you.

Bruce, I'm happy to help

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

v40mav wrote:

Got all the lights done but used a standard rocker switch for one of the pairs as I didn't want to pay nearly £50 for the second genuine switch - previously under a tenner - !!

( Switches are YUG000540LNF - )

Anyone know of a supplier or source where these can be had at a sensible price - ?

Unfortunately, YUG000540LNF, along with several other Defender and Discovery II switches, went up in price earlier this year, to 'silly-money' prices.

You will struggle to find anyone selling them at pre-increase prices (including those who had stock before they went up )


If you're making your own roof lights loom, then the cheapest option for a factory fit switch is the Puma Heated seat switch YUF500150LNF


Click image to enlarge

This switch is still around a fiver


It uses the Black switch connector and, unlike YUG000540LNF, it switches the live and not the earth.

It is wired, as follows -

Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply
Pin 2 - Dash illumination
Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)
Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory
Pin 5 - Earth


The 'heated seat' switch cap can be replaced with the blank cap from the blank that it's replacing on the facia.

This blank cap can be modified, with a 2.5mm hole, for the 'lense' for the Orange tell-tale LED to poke through.

You could engrave a suitable symbol onto the blank cap - this would allow it to illuminate with the dash lights.

Or, you could use a stick-on symbol from VWP or MUDSTUFF, which won't illuminate with the dash lights.

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

PaulMc wrote:

v40mav wrote:

Got all the lights done but used a standard rocker switch for one of the pairs as I didn't want to pay nearly £50 for the second genuine switch - previously under a tenner - !!

( Switches are YUG000540LNF - )

Anyone know of a supplier or source where these can be had at a sensible price - ?

Unfortunately, YUG000540LNF, along with several other Defender and Discovery II switches, went up in price earlier this year, to 'silly-money' prices.

You will struggle to find anyone selling them at pre-increase prices (including those who had stock before they went up )


If you're making your own roof lights loom, then the cheapest option for a factory fit switch is the Puma Heated seat switch YUF500150LNF


Click image to enlarge

This switch is still around a fiver


It uses the Black switch connector and, unlike YUG000540LNF, it switches the live and not the earth.

It is wired, as follows -

Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply
Pin 2 - Dash illumination
Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)
Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory
Pin 5 - Earth


The 'heated seat' switch cap can be replaced with the blank cap from the blank that it's replacing on the facia.

This blank cap can be modified, with a 2.5mm hole, for the 'lense' for the Orange tell-tale LED to poke through.

You could engrave a suitable symbol onto the blank cap - this would allow it to illuminate with the dash lights.

Or, you could use a stick-on symbol from VWP or MUDSTUFF, which won't illuminate with the dash lights.

.

Know it is a while back. But blooming brill idea... Well done that man... :bow:

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