 | Home > Expedition & Overland > New year, new truck layout. |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5698  
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Mine
 Click image to enlarge Then use boxes either side fridge in middle, so can see over it. Andy |
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2nd Jan 2012 10:39pm |
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| Pam W Member Since: 25 Oct 2011 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1169  
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Thanks Mike - do you have any pics of it all done?
I do like the look of the Mantec baskets and shelf - as in the pic above in - will investigate those further when I've got the roll cage sorted. - looking at getting the standard P&P external expedition bolt on, but possibly also a custom internal cross behind the seats (its a non-bulkead tub) for extra rigidity. Thinking can custom build some mesh onto the cross for some extra hanging space and for safety of the driver/passenger compartment. |
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2nd Jan 2012 10:41pm |
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| Pam W Member Since: 25 Oct 2011 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1169
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Ta Andy.
I'd like to be able to get things out of the fridge without standing on a something so deffo having it lower down! 
I do like that high up shelf as well, so that is another one to look out for (although we'd have to replace any wooden slats with metal or plastic as the Australian quarantine people get very funny about letting wood products in and its easier just not to have them if at all poss. Any other suggestions gratefully received.  |
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2nd Jan 2012 10:53pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5698
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Yes the wood slats are crap any way, you can't really see in that photo, but my slats are Ali and I also added cross bars.
The fridge is far to high on my setup, I can manage being 6'4" but the other half needs a step. Andy |
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2nd Jan 2012 11:07pm |
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| d j hutton Member Since: 30 Jul 2009 Location: Dorset Posts: 1044 
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That's the ones 
I got the euros with attachable lid and plastic clips to lock. Handy as I keep all the camping gear in them, ready to chuck in. (didn't stop me forgetting the poles for the oztent awning last trip -duh, good job we had some spare ones which I didn't forget, bit short but did the job just about) Dj 1989 200tdi 90 csw 2011 110 usw Orkney grey Buy British 🇬🇧 Defender Clothing Designs available at http://www.rangesports.com/acatalog/Defender-Stuff.html |
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2nd Jan 2012 11:34pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581 
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Pam, some form of cargo barrier is essential.
Have a look at the wire cage in the back of the red 110. One of the best things I have seen for high level storage. Supplied by Tony at Four Plus 4 Re fridge, if you are thinking of a storage drawer, be it MSS/Safari/Black Widow have you considered a drop down slide? OK puts weight and costs up but would make standard type drawer + fridge work for you Alternative to consider would be half width drawers. Saw them when searching will try and find link for you. Another possibility would be a sliding floor such as the ones available for D3/4 There again I am sure you will do your research 
Brendan |
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2nd Jan 2012 11:52pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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Sorry Pam, I dont. I didn't have the shelves - they weren't needed. Just thinkn a basic shelf level with the wheel arches, secured to the side baskets with 3 mil ally strips bolted through. the vertical sides of the shelf. It was basically a box with an open front and the measurements were set so that my existing boxes fit in the aperture and couldn't move. I disagree with brendan that a load guard is neccessary. If your system is bolted in, and whatever you have on top is correctly strapped down, and those strap securing points are bolted with appropriate washers etc, you don't need a load guard since there is no risk of anything flying about in the event of a spill. Having said that, you can secure other things to the rearward facing part of a mesh loadguard, and I'm having one in my current vehicle though that's more for a division that a safety thing. I'm sure brendan will agree that any guard or indeed anything with any weight is only as secure as its mountings, so in terms of money, i would spend on good quality bolts, washers and nylock nuts (cant vibrate free) as opposed to large bits of kit which might be robust, but isn't unless it's bolted down. The mantec shelves are a case in point. They're steel, but they "sit" on the basket sides. If you end up getting them, you'll need to secure them to the baskets, and also make sure the baskets are corectly bolted down because the bolts that mantec supply in the basket kit are not up to the job at all (in my opinion) re the boab shelf, you can easily unscrew the wooden slats and replace them with ally. there are loads of suppliers on ebay who will cut to length for you, then its just a matter of screwing them in. |
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3rd Jan 2012 12:10am |
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| Mark_110DCPU Member Since: 26 Jul 2010 Location: West Sussex Posts: 78 
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Ben,
In my dc I found that the following net is a perfect fit for the load area: load net from apb trading Admittedly I don't have the truckman, so it is attached to the hood sticks. However, it is non stretchy so holds thermarests without stretching to the floor like my previous attempt with a car cargo net. I also still have the spare mounted internally so just use a row of Zarges boxes inside. Don't have any pictures of them in this truck tho... Following with interest to see what you come up with tho. Mark [:O|===|O:] 2001 110 TD5 Doublecab |
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3rd Jan 2012 12:26am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581
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IF everything is always correctly secured down then yes you do not need a cargo barrier. The problem is when things go wrong they go wrong extremely rapidly and there is no time to secure that loose shackle/torch/frying pan/torque wrench which you have just thrown into the back of your vehicle. Yes people will differ about bits of gear. Have found a cargo barrier extremely useful once, it did its job. Passenger compartment only soft items are allowed unsecured, all hard items tied down. Getting hit around back of head with a pillow/fleece etc is one thing, that loose shackle/lump hammer travelling at mach 5 is a different matter. Yes cargo barriers do have their own disadvantages such as limiting length of items that can be carried. So my vote goes for travelling with a cargo barrier, others may disagree. Brendan |
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3rd Jan 2012 12:45am |
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| Pam W Member Since: 25 Oct 2011 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1169
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As I said above, if we go with the extra internal cross on the roll cage we are thinking of making a custom mesh barrier to attach to that, as the standard dog guard is then unlikely to fit. I don't like the idea of having heavy items falling on me either!
Ta for the other ideas. |
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3rd Jan 2012 6:53am |
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| ben_j85jty Member Since: 02 Sep 2008 Location: Bicester, Oxfordshire Posts: 491 
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I think I have found a solution.
I have always been a bit dubious about making a frame to sit the boxes in, mainly because of weight. after looking at Ralph Hardwicks http://www.overland-rovers.com/ and saw that he had used Easy fix aluminimum tubing, which I think is going to be perfect to make a lightweight and strong rack system for the rear of the truck. http://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/EasyFi...index.html 2002 Defender 110 DC |
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4th Jan 2012 10:36pm |
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| ben_j85jty Member Since: 02 Sep 2008 Location: Bicester, Oxfordshire Posts: 491
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So here is a mock up of the racking:
Click image to enlarge Going to measure it up for real and get the materials ordered, see what it ends up like Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  2002 Defender 110 DC |
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6th Jan 2012 2:02pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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looking good Ben ... how does the structure stay together, glue, rivets ?
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6th Jan 2012 5:33pm |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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looking at the site it appears to be push fit
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6th Jan 2012 5:37pm |
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