 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > TD5 clutch issue? |
 
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1205   
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Apologise for highjacked this thread, but actually following these discussions, and since I currently have my clutch assembly out of the car, I decided to modify my Td5 clutch to have both a bottom and top adjustment screw. This is quite simple by adding a bolt with captive nut at the top (rest height) location
With the overcenter spring and no top stop bolt the high position of the pedal is relying solely on the push rod adjustment holding it down at the correct height, which otherwise is too high. The push rod has some play where it meets the plunger and thus you loose some pedal travel taking up the slack before the plunger starts moving. I found that to raise the biting point you can end up with an uncomfortably high pedal. So a new top stop bolt to get the pedal at the correct height. Enough free play in the pushrod to ensure there is a free fluid path 'at rest' and a bottom adjustment bolt to avoid smashed up the floor padding and pushing the overcenter spring too far. I should be able to report back on this plan soon. |
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18th Mar 2025 12:13pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5920  
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I have been tempted to remove the SC but I didn't want to bring more pain to my door. I do have a borescope maybe i could insert this via the wading plug hole. The MC I purchased was a TRW one - same as the one that came off. The only LOF I have is the spring. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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18th Mar 2025 1:27pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5920
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While the drive to work after playing with the clutch went ok, the bite point being really low is annoying.
I popped into my local garage who do the MOT, welding. other jobs on the Landy I don't do and asked them to have a look for me. Next date 8th April!. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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19th Mar 2025 1:09pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1205
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 Click image to enlarge Well made the mods - high and low stops, will install over the weekend and let y'all know if it makes a difference. |
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19th Mar 2025 3:26pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 335 
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I'll be interested to hear your results. If you use a stop bolt on the upper travel does this not mean if the pedal is not situated on the rod in the correct place that the MC does not cycle fully when the pedal is up and therefore there is the potential for the SC to be exerting force on the release fork at the same time?
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20th Mar 2025 4:33pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1205
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Well refitted it all and it all works perfectly. I changed the MC filled it till it came dribbling out, connected the line and the biting point is right in the middle, did not even bleed it. The top AND bottom adjustment just allows you to set all parameters more accurate and decisively, with some play in the rod, not being oddly high and not smashing the carpet. I also used the original black over center spring instead of the LOF clutch green one as previously I had a bit of an odd pedal pressure. I suppose my clutch is not heavy to start with.
But then I never really had an issue other than it being messy with the insulation falling down, some rust etc, this is why I went in there, took it all apart, painted, greased etc and put it back together. One item on the list crossed off kinda job. Back to the OP, with the easy with which I reinstated my clutch, no bothers at all, you must have something wrong. Bleeding the slave is known to be cumbersome.In the past I have been successfully bled a problematic slave by removing it from the gearbox connected and then pushing it in fully with a screwdriver a few times pushing any fluid and air to the MC, I recall hearing it clearing. I hope you get it sorted soon |
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22nd Mar 2025 8:35am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5920
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Good news your pedal mods are working well.
would you be willing to share maybe a measurement of pedal height with no carpet/pedal rubber please? Since swapping out the LOF spring to the black spring, did the pedal bite point change - I doubt it but worth an ask. For me I have changed the MC and changed to a LOF spring all at the same time. I wonder (and its a big if) could the LOF spring be making things feel weird? 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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22nd Mar 2025 10:36am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1205
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Hi there, sorry weekend chores kept me from answering.
I set up the pedal adjustment off car till they looked ok and then after installing the assembly. I adjusted the bottom setting to make sure it was not touching the carpet. Just checked the top (at rest) position now and it is 150mm from the floor so 10mm too heigh, which I will adjust with my new screw. The push rod is adjusted with the nuts to be just loose at the plunger end when at rest. But more importantly the clutch biting point is right in the middle of the stroke which is also where the over center spring (original black type) tumbles over from pushing back to helping your leg motion. I suppose for those two (clutch pressure and spring pos/neg force) to be reasonably in sync is important to have a smooth natural pedal action. The green LOF spring which I had installed before is just a stronger spring and since my clutch was not that heavy to start with it resulted in the spring overpowering the clutch and I had to screw the bottom stop in all the way to ensure the clutch would come up positively, but even then it was a bit jerky making it harder to feather the clutch as the spring would sort of kick the pedal up with where you feather. Although I got used to that other people driving the car would comment on this so not clearly not ideal. Anyway it's obvious important that the clutch biting point is about in the middle of the pedal, which it should be if everything is working correctly. In your case there has to be something not right with the motion of the master and slave combination, either due to air or some mismatch. |
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23rd Mar 2025 10:41am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 678
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Fitting that 2nd adjuster bolt for pedal height was something I had considered when I fitted the red boost servo..
I struggled to see exactly what adjusted what and why my adjuster bolt was for limiting the bottom pedal position when all the reading suggested it altered pedal height.. In the end I found that my pedal height was set by adjusting the two nuts either side of the pedal box rod Trunion .. I then have a linkage that transfares that pedal rod movement to the servo push rod..I think from memory that's a one to one ratio.. My free play is set on the threaded rod on the output of the servo.. A few basic measurements allows you to lock the length of that threaded rod so that there is a mm or so clearance of the servo rod that actuates the master cylinder.. It's worked fine for nearly 3 years and I never bothered or saw the need to fit that 2nd adjuster bolt to the pedal box.. I dont even need any clearance or play on the pedal rod in the pedal box as my clearance is set at the output of the servo.. The advantages of the red boost, apart from the obvious ease of operating the clutch to me are the ease of adjustment ie pedal movement before actuation ...and the master cylinder and resevoir are so much easier to access and work on.. What you can not afford to do is rest your foot on or near the clutch pedal whilst driving or you will have a slipping clutch 🫣🤣.. |
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23rd Mar 2025 11:43am |
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