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Penfold_6290

Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 334

If you want to go digging for problems you could take the slave cylinder off (without disconnecting the hydraulics) and have a look at where the clutch push rod engages with the release fork. There's a plastic bush that it pushes against, if this has expired then that could mean you have to push more oil to disengage the clutch. Not sure how much you'll see with the naked eye, you might need one of those borescope thingummies.

I have found the different MCs need fettling because they don't all move the same amount of oil when operated. Did you buy a standard MC or a LOF Power Master? If you bought the latter this lowers the bite point.

18th Mar 2025 11:07am

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1184

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White

Apologise for highjacked this thread, but actually following these discussions, and since I currently have my clutch assembly out of the car, I decided to modify my Td5 clutch to have both a bottom and top adjustment screw. This is quite simple by adding a bolt with captive nut at the top (rest height) location

With the overcenter spring and no top stop bolt the high position of the pedal is relying solely on the push rod adjustment holding it down at the correct height, which otherwise is too high. The push rod has some play where it meets the plunger and thus you loose some pedal travel taking up the slack before the plunger starts moving. I found that to raise the biting point you can end up with an uncomfortably high pedal.

So a new top stop bolt to get the pedal at the correct height. Enough free play in the pushrod to ensure there is a free fluid path 'at rest' and a bottom adjustment bolt to avoid smashed up the floor padding and pushing the overcenter spring too far.

I should be able to report back on this plan soon.

18th Mar 2025 11:13am

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5919

1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

Penfold_6290 wrote:
If you want to go digging for problems you could take the slave cylinder off (without disconnecting the hydraulics) and have a look at where the clutch push rod engages with the release fork. There's a plastic bush that it pushes against, if this has expired then that could mean you have to push more oil to disengage the clutch. Not sure how much you'll see with the naked eye, you might need one of those borescope thingummies.

I have found the different MCs need fettling because they don't all move the same amount of oil when operated. Did you buy a standard MC or a LOF Power Master? If you bought the latter this lowers the bite point.

I have been tempted to remove the SC but I didn't want to bring more pain to my door.
I do have a borescope maybe i could insert this via the wading plug hole.

The MC I purchased was a TRW one - same as the one that came off.
The only LOF I have is the spring. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

18th Mar 2025 12:27pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5919

While the drive to work after playing with the clutch went ok, the bite point being really low is annoying.
I popped into my local garage who do the MOT, welding. other jobs on the Landy I don't do and asked them to have a look for me. Next date 8th April!. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

19th Mar 2025 12:09pm

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1184

Click image to enlarge

Well made the mods - high and low stops, will install over the weekend and let y'all know if it makes a difference.

19th Mar 2025 2:26pm

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