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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 660

United Kingdom 
That's a good point made about the sealing of the easy bleed cap and not using to high a pressure..
Ive never found the need to try it on the defender but when i used to use it those were issues i had with it..
If you cam bleed by pumping the pedal that seems to be the best bet to me..
And crucial to that is a good flow of fluid each time you depress the pedal...
Best of luck anyway..
Post #1063110 17th Mar 2025 8:43am
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 334

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
From my recent experience replacing master and slave cylinders it is the pedal height that you need to experiment with. It sounds like you have managed to remove any air in the system.

Adjustinging the nuts on the piston rod is a fiddle and helped by modifying a 13mm spanner so it is not quite as fat and fits in the space easier. My clutch pedal is much higher than the book says it should be, but this is the only adjustment you have to increase the stroke of the cylinder, hence move more fluid and increase the stroke of the slave cylinder which in turn fully disengages the clutch.

You can do this!!
Post #1063111 17th Mar 2025 8:43am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5918

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers both.

I had a spare space saver tyre and I reduced the pressure to about 8-10psi and I am confident I have no air in the system.

Round 10 at dinner time or after work to adjust the pedal height. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1063115 17th Mar 2025 9:11am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5918

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Update. I have now readjusted the pedal height to make it a little higher. A quick test and it seems that now 1st and reverse are a lot better. I am in the office tomorrow so a good chance to give it a good test.

I did notice that I only have one nut between the pivot point and the MC and only one nut (not a nyloc) at the other end. I have since ordered new nuts. Easier to replace the single nut with a nyloc.

The bite point is still low to the floor.

Tomorrows drive will see what its really like. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1063168 17th Mar 2025 5:34pm
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 334

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I’m glad you’ve made some progress, but thanks for the update.

I’d advise against a nyloc nut between the pedal pivot and the MC, you’ll damage the MC piston trying to grip it so it doesn’t turn when you try to thread on the nut. A nyloc on the open end of the piston is fine. You’ll probably have to dismantle the pedal box to get new nuts on too, I can’t think how you’d be able to do it otherwise.
Post #1063170 17th Mar 2025 6:05pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3501

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Medium strength thread lock should also prevent you loosing any adjustment. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1063173 17th Mar 2025 6:41pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5918

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Sorry, I meant, a nyloc at the start of the threaded push rod not the middle. I might have to use some thread lock on the single nut in the middle.

Time will tell....or a drive to work tomorrow. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1063175 17th Mar 2025 6:48pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 802

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
I don't think there's the need for nylocs or threadlock.... Don't you just tighten one nut against the other pinching the trunion between?
Post #1063176 17th Mar 2025 7:05pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1182

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I just dismantled two Td5 clutch pedal boxes and both had a nylock nut at the open and a double thin nut at the other closed end (closed as in between the MC and the pedal). Not sure how original this is, but if you think about it, this arrangement does allow for some free play movement, although this free movement exist already as the pushrod is not attached to the plunger.

What is confusing with the adjustment is that some instructions tell you to adjust the bolt on the pedal box to set the released pedal height, while on the Td5 box the adjustment bolt sets the height of the fully pressed down pedal. The Td5 pedal has the overcenter spring instead of the older pull up springs.

With the overcenter spring the risk is that when the spring pressure is more than the clutch return pressure and the pedal stays locked down, this is obviously far worse if you have air in the system. The bottom adjustment screw I think is there to ensure you maintain a positive return force by limiting how much over center spring pressure is present by limiting the over center stroke.
Post #1063183 17th Mar 2025 7:33pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 660

United Kingdom 
I found my first work on my 2.2 clutch system confusing.. the manual i had kept referring to that bolt on the pedal box been used to adjust pedal height I believe..but it was obvious that the bolt on mine was only there to limit the downward movement of the pedal..
I was fitting a red boost at the time and remember getting a bit confused with the instructions in the ws manual..
Your reasoning for the bolt limiting pedal travel sounds good..👍
Post #1063205 17th Mar 2025 9:12pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5918

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
There does seem to be some confusion / varying thoughts on the process of setting up the pedal and not all of them match up to the pedal layout on the TD5

I have set some play between the pivot point and the middle nut. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1063207 17th Mar 2025 9:21pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3501

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
The confusion comes because there are 2 pedal box types.
The earlier boxes with the wide pedal (pressed steel) have a pedal height adjust. This needs to be adjusted accordingly and the push rod on the MC adjusted to have some free play. There is no bottom limit. The footwell is the limit.

The later boxes with narrow pedal does not have upper limit screw, but have lower limit screw.

About pinching the bolts on the pedal shaft, the parts are not precise engineered, and seen cases when over tightening the nuts pushes the pushrod sideways, risk of scoring MC bore. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1063226 18th Mar 2025 2:54am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5918

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Well I made it the massive 6 mile drive to the office today.

Bite point is low (as mentioned) which is a bit odd - doubt I can alter this
The pedal is light, in part due to the LOF spring and probably the new MC.
Needs a little more play at the start of travel
I can change gears OK and get 1st/reverse a lot easier than before.
No sign of any clutch slip - the test will be end of April when I will be towing cars around Silverstone

If I could move the bite point, then I would be a lot happier.

Thanks to all that offered help and advice. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1063231 18th Mar 2025 8:14am
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 334

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I'm glad you're mobile again, the only way to raise the bite point is to raise the pedal height I'm afraid, the two are inextricably linked.
Post #1063242 18th Mar 2025 10:31am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5918

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers. But what is odd, is, I am sure it was never that low before. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1063246 18th Mar 2025 10:59am
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