 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > TD5 clutch issue? |
 
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660  
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That's a good point made about the sealing of the easy bleed cap and not using to high a pressure..
Ive never found the need to try it on the defender but when i used to use it those were issues i had with it.. If you cam bleed by pumping the pedal that seems to be the best bet to me.. And crucial to that is a good flow of fluid each time you depress the pedal... Best of luck anyway.. |
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17th Mar 2025 8:43am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919 
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Cheers both.
I had a spare space saver tyre and I reduced the pressure to about 8-10psi and I am confident I have no air in the system. Round 10 at dinner time or after work to adjust the pedal height. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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17th Mar 2025 9:11am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Update. I have now readjusted the pedal height to make it a little higher. A quick test and it seems that now 1st and reverse are a lot better. I am in the office tomorrow so a good chance to give it a good test.
I did notice that I only have one nut between the pivot point and the MC and only one nut (not a nyloc) at the other end. I have since ordered new nuts. Easier to replace the single nut with a nyloc. The bite point is still low to the floor. Tomorrows drive will see what its really like. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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17th Mar 2025 5:34pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 334 
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I’m glad you’ve made some progress, but thanks for the update.
I’d advise against a nyloc nut between the pedal pivot and the MC, you’ll damage the MC piston trying to grip it so it doesn’t turn when you try to thread on the nut. A nyloc on the open end of the piston is fine. You’ll probably have to dismantle the pedal box to get new nuts on too, I can’t think how you’d be able to do it otherwise. |
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17th Mar 2025 6:05pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3501  
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Medium strength thread lock should also prevent you loosing any adjustment. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Mar 2025 6:41pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Sorry, I meant, a nyloc at the start of the threaded push rod not the middle. I might have to use some thread lock on the single nut in the middle.
Time will tell....or a drive to work tomorrow. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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17th Mar 2025 6:48pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 802  
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I don't think there's the need for nylocs or threadlock.... Don't you just tighten one nut against the other pinching the trunion between?
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17th Mar 2025 7:05pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1184  
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I just dismantled two Td5 clutch pedal boxes and both had a nylock nut at the open and a double thin nut at the other closed end (closed as in between the MC and the pedal). Not sure how original this is, but if you think about it, this arrangement does allow for some free play movement, although this free movement exist already as the pushrod is not attached to the plunger.
What is confusing with the adjustment is that some instructions tell you to adjust the bolt on the pedal box to set the released pedal height, while on the Td5 box the adjustment bolt sets the height of the fully pressed down pedal. The Td5 pedal has the overcenter spring instead of the older pull up springs. With the overcenter spring the risk is that when the spring pressure is more than the clutch return pressure and the pedal stays locked down, this is obviously far worse if you have air in the system. The bottom adjustment screw I think is there to ensure you maintain a positive return force by limiting how much over center spring pressure is present by limiting the over center stroke. |
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17th Mar 2025 7:33pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660
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I found my first work on my 2.2 clutch system confusing.. the manual i had kept referring to that bolt on the pedal box been used to adjust pedal height I believe..but it was obvious that the bolt on mine was only there to limit the downward movement of the pedal..
I was fitting a red boost at the time and remember getting a bit confused with the instructions in the ws manual.. Your reasoning for the bolt limiting pedal travel sounds good..👍 |
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17th Mar 2025 9:12pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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There does seem to be some confusion / varying thoughts on the process of setting up the pedal and not all of them match up to the pedal layout on the TD5
I have set some play between the pivot point and the middle nut. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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17th Mar 2025 9:21pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3501
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The confusion comes because there are 2 pedal box types.
The earlier boxes with the wide pedal (pressed steel) have a pedal height adjust. This needs to be adjusted accordingly and the push rod on the MC adjusted to have some free play. There is no bottom limit. The footwell is the limit. The later boxes with narrow pedal does not have upper limit screw, but have lower limit screw. About pinching the bolts on the pedal shaft, the parts are not precise engineered, and seen cases when over tightening the nuts pushes the pushrod sideways, risk of scoring MC bore. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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18th Mar 2025 2:54am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Well I made it the massive 6 mile drive to the office today.
Bite point is low (as mentioned) which is a bit odd - doubt I can alter this The pedal is light, in part due to the LOF spring and probably the new MC. Needs a little more play at the start of travel I can change gears OK and get 1st/reverse a lot easier than before. No sign of any clutch slip - the test will be end of April when I will be towing cars around Silverstone If I could move the bite point, then I would be a lot happier. Thanks to all that offered help and advice. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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18th Mar 2025 8:14am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 334
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I'm glad you're mobile again, the only way to raise the bite point is to raise the pedal height I'm afraid, the two are inextricably linked.
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18th Mar 2025 10:31am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Cheers. But what is odd, is, I am sure it was never that low before. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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18th Mar 2025 10:59am |
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