 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Double cab to Station wagon |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17602   
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This should be an interesting thread thank you.
It might be worth considering a s/h rear tub off an SW if you can find one rather than cutting out the bulkhead. I'm not sure if the second row seating on a TD5 differs between DC and SW (it certainly does on a Puma) but for a camper that may not be a problem anyway. |
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8th Feb 2025 8:06pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14 
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I did look for s/h tub, but mine is in excellent condition and decent second hand ones are really expensive.
I've removed the rear seats, seat belts. Roof rack off. Ifor williams top removed. Roof linings out. Roof nearly off. New Rear tub cappings - drill out galv holes to size. Drilling out rear capping rivet and bulkhead rivets. 5mm. New rivets available. New side mountings ordered. |
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8th Feb 2025 8:21pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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So although the rear bulkhead is riveted to the floor and wheel arches, its glued down and glued to the tub sides. Can't see this coming out nicely. Shame.
So plan is to cut it down from the capping to the wheel arch leaving a web. Seem to remember 110s station wagons having something similar probably to provide a bit of strength to the sides when the doors slam. The remaining angle pieces on the floor and wheel arches will have to be cut out as they are welded to the the body. On the outside the double cab tub has rope cleats on the sides, which would be ok, but one of the capping rivets is underneath one of them... |
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9th Feb 2025 3:31pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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So a mildly warmer weekend and it's not raining, so time to start
Starting with  Click image to enlarge Unbolt and lift roof, remove rear window section Click image to enlarge drill out rivets on cappings, fit new cappings, but they don't fit cause the rear bulkhead is in the way, so i'll have to cut it. Glad I bought a air rivet gun, excellent piece of kit. Unfortunately the new cappings rivet holes don't line up with the double cab ones, so drill new holes. Original holes in the side will need filling. Remove rope cleats and fit rivets in holes. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Left a bit of the bulkhead to provide a bit of support to the side panel, but not sure it is enough. But can't seem to locate the gusset bracket that normal station wagons have fitted. These are fitted slightly further forward and I assume rivet to the the top capping as well. Click image to enlarge Rear bulk head had to be cut, as the sides were spot welded to the side panels. Just leaves angled brackets to cut and grind down. Click image to enlarge Final result after 2 days Click image to enlarge Waiting for new rear door to arrive White roof is temporary until Alucab roof is fitted. [/img] Last edited by maddad on 17th Feb 2025 9:48am. Edited 3 times in total |
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16th Feb 2025 8:06pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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Seat belts removed as no 2nd row seats now.
One unforeseen issue is the rear sides. Bought a set of an older 110 sides, so the sides have the extra trim at the front which has the door seal mount. But I was planning on fitting Blakglass sides and the extra trim gets in the way, but if removed there is no flange to fit the door seal. Other things to check. 1. Insurance - no only 2 seats, and not a double cab anymore 2. DVLA - no fitted cooker so not officially and camper, but look up reg and it comes up as a double cab even tho its not on the V5C Last edited by maddad on 17th Feb 2025 9:44am. Edited 1 time in total |
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16th Feb 2025 8:13pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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YRM metal solutions do the brackets
https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-wing-to-w...or-5-door/ |
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17th Feb 2025 9:18am |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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So new side supports arrived, these need drilling, glueing and riveting on. After the rest of the bulkhead is removed.
And the roof and sides need to come back off so I can rivet through the capping. Click image to enlarge Last edited by maddad on 18th Feb 2025 3:08pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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18th Feb 2025 2:14pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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Next issue, which I had not foreseen.
I bought a pair of sides for a 110, not realising they are not quite the same as a later Defender. The 110 has strip fixed to the front edge which hold the door seal, but I was planning on fitting Blakglass panoramic windows all round, as I don't need opening ones (which leak and rattle). But if I remove the edging, the side is too short by about 5mm and there is no door seal lip. Side panel is lined up OK at the back. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge So what to do. I'm inclined to cut the edging off the side, but keep the door seal part, then rivet/seal the door seal part to the side panel. In hindsight, I should have spent the money and splashed out on a pair of later sides, if there were any available. I'm on a tight budget and schedule. |
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18th Feb 2025 2:24pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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So remaining bulkhead removed by drilling spot rivets and use of an old wood chisel.
Click image to enlarge Still got new supports to fit Click image to enlarge |
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19th Feb 2025 7:09pm |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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Now looking for a bit of help with the rear wiring. This is the offside rear lighting loom. I had a tailgate fitted before. I have a new door on order.
What are the spare connectors for. I'm assuming :- rear wiper motor? rear washer?, rear door central locking? Rear door brake light? There is a blue 2 pin, pair of bullets, 2 pin bullet, 3 pin white Click image to enlarge |
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19th Feb 2025 7:16pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6641 
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It's the wire colours which really, really help but...
2 way bullet with white/black and black wires: Heated rear window 4 way round connector with 3 wires, red/light green + brown/light green + white/green: Rear wiper 2 way blue connector with green/brown and black wires: Reverse lamp connector for LHD (not used on RHD - you have used the orange version for your fog lamp - bottom of photo) Pair of bullets - green/purple (?? please confirm) and black: High level brake light on door Martin 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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20th Feb 2025 8:38am |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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Excellent. Cheers. Knew somebody would have the knowledge.
Saved me loads of time, working it out from diagrams. I'll attach what I have to the new door and work out the dashboard end later. |
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20th Feb 2025 9:23am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6641
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You’ll need an early Td5 door loom if you want it to plug straight in. The 2002MY onwards (inc Puma) are different and would need connectors changing etc.
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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20th Feb 2025 9:45am |
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| maddad Member Since: 06 Feb 2025 Location: Sussex Posts: 14
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It is a 2001 TD5, old style simple dash. But the new door may be universal.
What it should be fairly easy to convert now I know the connections to the door |
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20th Feb 2025 9:50am |
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