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110Matty

Member Since: 20 Apr 2023
Location: Somerset
Posts: 140

Electrical wiring help needed if possible

Hello all,

I have a another thread running on heated seats and I've encountered a problem, but it might not necessarily be specific to heated seats, so I thought I'd ask generally, as an auto electrician might know the answer?

I have some aftermarket seats (heated), that came with a fully assembled loom, switch (one switch for both seats and x3 stage heating on each) and a box which is some form of controller/relay for the heat settings I guess. All the wiring is nicely put together, connectors seem fine etc. Instructions are straightforward - permanent 12v wire, switched 12v, ground and a wire for illumination (12v lights on). Without the seats connected, I thought I'd test the voltage output on the connectors that feed the seat wiring. On stage 3 I get battery voltage e.g 12.8v, on stage 2 I get 12v and stage 1 it's 10v. This I can understand I think to give the varying heat outputs. However, in the off position and with the ignition off, there is a reading of 4.6v ?

I don't want to fit and connect the seats up for fear of battery drain. It's a long shot, but does anyone understand what might cause this? Could there be a chance that the controller only fully works when the seat connectors are actually connected? Would this apply to any circuit of this type perhaps?

The seats are BB classic and seem nice quality, maybe others have fitted them too?

I am sorry to post a new topic, but I've searched everywhere i know, I can't work it out

Defender 90 TD5 2004

20th Jan 2025 5:07pm

luccie_007

Member Since: 06 Jan 2025
Location: Buchten
Posts: 4

Hi,

Electrician here, voltage does not always mean there is current flowing (Amps)

So put your multimeter in the AMPS mode, and wire it inbetween the battery.
It might just be an open circuit or residual voltage.

https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-Amperage
Simple but effective how to.

Of there is no current flowing, there is not a real issue.

First test this with OFF, and then with the LEAST hot stage, as your multimeter might not cope above 10Amps, which might be used in the hottest stage.

3rd Feb 2025 10:20pm

110Matty

Member Since: 20 Apr 2023
Location: Somerset
Posts: 140

Thanks for the reply, I did wonder if there was something like this that could be going on. However, i got over it by connecting the modules switched 12v and the permanent 12v wires together, so that no voltage / current would be in play until i switched the dash switches on. I wanted to keep the OEM dash switches operational (as I'd installed them as a retrofit for the single stage heated seats that I've just removed), so I now switch from the dash, via a relay to the new seats loom/module and the aftermarket switch to control the 3 stage heating. I can confirm that stage 3 gets very warm, too warm for long periods, so I'm glad of the lower heat settings. Had I stuck to using the OEM switches alone, wired directly to the seats, I think I would have only had off, or stage 3, which isn't what I wanted. Cheers. Defender 90 TD5 2004

4th Feb 2025 11:25am

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