 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rumbling / grinding from front driver side |
 
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 836   
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Hmmm... From your description it does sound bearing related to me. Have you jacked the wheel up and checked movement top and bottom? There are 2 bearings an inner and an outer in the hub so if your garage just removed the drive flange to check they would have only seen the outer.
Do you have plenty of friction material on your brake pads? If they are very worn you can get a grinding noise where it is metal on metal. Jim |
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31st Jan 2025 3:32am |
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| mptzs90 Member Since: 24 May 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 51  
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I haven’t done it myself but the garage told me they did and it was totally fine. That’s really helpful - sounds like I should either take a look myself or have them look more thoroughly.
How easy is this to do at home? I only have the bottle jack from under the seat - nothing more sophisticated to work with. Very happy to give it a go but haven’t checked bearings before. Thanks as always |
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31st Jan 2025 6:29am |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 777 
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Give it a go!
Level ground, Chock the rear wheels, handbrake on, and jack the suspect front wheel up with the jack on the axle. Only needs to be 2 inches off the ground Check to see if there's any play in the wheel when trying to rock it top / bottom, you might even hear the rumble when you rotate it. Have a look on YouTube there's plenty on there to guide. Good luck, and let us know how you get on  |
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31st Jan 2025 7:08am |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 836
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Remember - YouTube is your friend!
Just type in "check wheel bearings" and it will bring up a few videos showing you exactly how to check. Jim |
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31st Jan 2025 8:15am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 48  
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Sounds similar to what I had this summer. In my case I couldn't really feel any play in the bearing and when rotating the wheel there was only minimal noise that was hard to separate from a brake pad slightly touching the disc. But when I drove it it made the sound of a duck. Yes, a duck!
It turned out one of the rollers had seized or partially seized. That bearing was also rusty, but the other one looked fine. To get into the hub and bearings you'll need: 13 mm bi-hex socket for brake caliper 17 mm socket for drive member bolts Circlip plier helps 52 mm socket for hub nut Depending on your seize and strength, a long enough breaker bar. Torque wrench to get it all together again. |
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31st Jan 2025 9:00am |
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| mptzs90 Member Since: 24 May 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 51
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Some shopping to do then! Mine doesn't sound like a duck (!?
 )... it's a lot more like rolling thunder when I hit 18mph and then stops a few moments later. The speed bump sound is much worse and like a grinding... |
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31st Jan 2025 9:07am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 48
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Start by just lifting the wheel and rock/rotate it to check for movement or sound. You can take it off and remove the brake pads as well to eliminate that source of sound. When rotating a good hub it should be smooth and without noise. If it is not smooth, then there is your problem.
If rocked at 12/6 o'clock you could also feel movement due to bad swivel bearings (guess how I know) so you might want to verify where the movement is coming from if that is the case. I think most members here will tell you to give it a go yourself as changing wheel bearings is perfectly doable. However, since you write that all you have is a bottle jack, I would like to confirm if that is really all you have? If you don't have any other tools and maybe don't plan to be the primary care giver to your Landy, but will continue to use the local garage, then you may as well return to them for this job. Did they test drive it? If so, what did they say about it? Other than that the bearings was fine. |
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31st Jan 2025 10:26am |
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| mptzs90 Member Since: 24 May 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 51
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Only a bottle jack in terms of lifting and that’s something I plan to remedy- plenty of other tools and happy to give this a go. They checked a while ago and I’m not sure if they drove it… they said they didn’t hear the issue though. It’s odd in that it seems to “bed in” after a a few mins driving, so it seemsmuch worse when you set off. When the rain stops I’ll jack it up and try wobbling it to see what I can find out. Thanks again
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31st Jan 2025 10:32am |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 836
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This chap does some very good instructional videos on maintaining Defenders. He has made 2 excellent video's on changing the wheels bearings and setting up the end float.
Trailerfitter's Toolbox Videos Jim |
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31st Jan 2025 2:44pm |
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| mptzs90 Member Since: 24 May 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 51
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So there no play 12/6 but I can definitely wobble it 9/3 and make a knocking sound. How much is too much?? Sounds like it’s from the steering almost though.
I checked both sides and the 9/3 play is similar on both. When rolling the wheel forwards and backwards it maybe a bit louder on the offending side but they both make a sound. If I can work out how to upload sounds/videos then I took a recording and can upload. |
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4th Feb 2025 8:30am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 48
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If it was the wheel bearings you would feel it both 3/9 and 12/6. Is the movement you feel at 3/6 you turning the opposite wheel or is it play that you detect? If the later, then you should feel the same on the other side as well. That could then be one of the ball joints in the steering.
The way to detect this is to put one finger on each side of the ball joint and have an assistant rocking the steering wheel back and forth. You will then feel the movement between your fingers. Not sure though that this can produce the sound you describe, it usually manifest as in precise steering. Any movement is too much. It will increase over time and need to be fixed. But you obviously need to establish where it come from. |
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4th Feb 2025 8:55am |
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| mptzs90 Member Since: 24 May 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 51
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Given that I get basically the same play from both sides it doesn't sound like it's the bearings then. I haven't noticed any steering issues at all. I'll try the steering test and from watching a few videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2p8BRllT0OI), it also sounds like I should have someone's foot on the brakes to isolate that being a problem.
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4th Feb 2025 9:06am |
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| mptzs90 Member Since: 24 May 2024 Location: Kent Posts: 51
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Rotating the wheel a bit. Handbrake, diff lock and low range engaged if it matters.
Drivers side: https://youtube.com/shorts/-_hHwyZc2sM?feature=shared Passenger side: https://youtube.com/shorts/1ebvu0VLeCE?feature=shared Apologies if this is a moronic/not useful test without pressure on brakes. No volunteer to hand |
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4th Feb 2025 9:36am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 48
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This movement is the slack in the driveline. Drive member, CV-joints, front diff, propshaft and diff in transfer case. I would say that this amount of movement is normal and nothing to worry about. It shouldn't contribute to the problem you are trying to solve.
It would be more interesting to have transfer box in neutral so you can rotate the wheel fully and listen to the sound from the hub. There shouldn't be any harshness or unevenness. |
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4th Feb 2025 9:59am |
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