 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > sticky number plate removal |
 
|
|
|
| falkster Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Sutton Coldfield Posts: 68   
|
Hi all,
previous owner installed one of those sticky number plates on the flap when he installed the winch and winch bumper. 
I want to revert to original bumper as realistically I will never use the winch and even if I might some day, I do not fancy carrying a winch with me all year round on the off chance i might need one. In addition, I prefer the look without the winch (so my winch and bumper will be up for sale later if someone wants them). What is the best way to get the number plate of the flap? Anyone done this and has a successful method? Thanks for any advice.[/img] 1988 Land Rover OneTen County SW, 3.9l Petrol V8 (serpentine), original "Santana" LT85 gearbox |
||
2nd Feb 2025 11:31am |
|
| falkster Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Sutton Coldfield Posts: 68
|
interesting. This advice is more for a physical number plate?
My topic tuitle is misleading. This is literally one of these reg number stickers but i guess the gentle heating and work across method is equally applicable(?). I was just wondering if for these stickers they use a different (stronger?) adhesive. Thanks for your response! 1988 Land Rover OneTen County SW, 3.9l Petrol V8 (serpentine), original "Santana" LT85 gearbox |
||
|
2nd Feb 2025 12:54pm |
|
| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736  
|
Yes, advice was for double sided tape on metal or plastic plate.
Hard to know what adhesive may have been used on yours. Still worth trying heat and then peeling back a corner if possible. Most adhesive is at its weakest if you are pulling away at about 90 degrees from flat. Solvents are a problem as you need to get under the plastic and some can damage your paint. As a last resort you will probably get it off with a window scraper, but will damage the paint. Amazon sell a double edged scraper with metal and plastic blades. The plastic blades may limit the damage. Very much trial and error I am afraid. |
||
|
2nd Feb 2025 2:17pm |
|
| Karl12345 Member Since: 27 Nov 2021 Location: Surrey Posts: 2  
|
Hi
I used some really strong nylon line that cut though ok assuming it’s not mastic that’s holding it on 👍 |
||
|
2nd Feb 2025 2:22pm |
|
| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2137
|
Heat from hair dryer / heat gun to soften the adhesive and a slow gentle pull as heat is continuously applied to the pulled edge. Then cleanup with some isopropyl alcohol. Then wash paint down, polish and then wax.
Don’t rush on the pull, let the heat do it’s work. A hair dryer will probably be best as heat guns can give too much heat. Having a cheap Infrared Thermometer gun helps to gauge temp applied, especially if using a heat gun. They are also useful for reading engine temp, coolant pipes temp etc so useful for other applications. |
||
|
2nd Feb 2025 3:38pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20613
|
Hairdryer is much safer than heat gun, the latter gets often far far too hot for sure.
A toffee wheel is ideal for residue if rubbing alcohol doesn’t move it. Is this plate a plastic one which has adhesive holding it on? Or is it like a sticker stuck on on like a decal would be? Looking at messages, assuming it is a sticker type by the looks of it, so you can try and take off as much of it as you can as others have suggested, if any small bits email off a toffee wheel will do it. Finish of with rubbing alcohol. After a little while you might want to wax the paint, but you might still have witness marks there due to UV but in that location I don’t think you’d notice much really. Chillin In The Backwoods🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
||
|
2nd Feb 2025 7:13pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
