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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 166

Germany 
Are you guys concerned about overheating? I see a lot of people saying not to use the 6th gear on slight uphill.. I gear downed a couple of time on our last trip, the girlfriend was wondering what was up with me Laughing Laughing Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1057561 16th Jan 2025 4:43pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3340

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Quote:
was really looking for a 'forced' clean. I try my best to use Excellium, so I tend to get all the additives, but not always possible. This is more about giving it a thorough clean much as IanH has suggested, and then good fuels through the year.

Monsieur Le Grenadier



Any of the cleaners from reputable brands will work. If you don’t want to get it sent over from the UK I’d have thought Mecacyl, Wurth, Liqui Moly etc would be easy enough to buy locally. You could always go to Accro Land and buy whatever they use.

As for fuel additives, I’m pretty sure they all use the same main ingredient 2-Ethylhexyl Nitrate. Perhaps someone knowledgeable can confirm? I believe it’s the samefor premium pump fuel. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #1057562 16th Jan 2025 4:49pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17505

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Waka56 wrote:
... I see a lot of people saying not to use the 6th gear on slight uphill...


A lot of people say that the earth is flat. It doesn't mean that it is. Remember there are far more wrong people on the internet than right people!

You know (or at least you should know) when your engine is labouring and you should change down.
Post #1057571 16th Jan 2025 5:45pm
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Waka56



Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 166

Germany 
My engine feels great at all time, hence why I'm surprised haha. But I had it only one year, so I don't mind learning some more. To be honest, I think I have to sort quite a few things, but the engine ain't a part of it. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
Post #1057572 16th Jan 2025 5:49pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 129

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I bought my Puma. Holy Poop !! It's quick. Pulls hills in 6th! Wow. Then I cracked a head. I fit a pyrometer. Now I don't go as fast. Now I shift down on long hills. YMMV
Post #1057620 17th Jan 2025 3:06am
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keith



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2223

Scotland 
For 40 years of driving Iv changed the oil and filters every 5000 miles on every vehicle Iv owned. I still say that’s the best maintenance that one can provide for the longevity of any engine.
Post #1057676 17th Jan 2025 5:13pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20540

United Kingdom 
I agree avoiding labouring the engine is best practice, and avoid slipping clutch as well. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1057686 17th Jan 2025 6:36pm
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Jon w



Member Since: 22 Dec 2015
Location: North East Wales
Posts: 214

Wales 1991 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Epsom Green
Waka56 wrote:
Are you guys concerned about overheating? I see a lot of people saying not to use the 6th gear on slight uphill.. I gear downed a couple of time on our last trip, the girlfriend was wondering what was up with me Laughing Laughing


This is likely to be to keep the EGT temperatures lower as engine is labouring less and spining faster so more boost and air going through.


Thanks everyone for their comments, it was the holed pistons I had heard of which had concerned me
Post #1057705 17th Jan 2025 9:09pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3446

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
On a 2.2 you can connect to obd and read the exhaust temperatures. But maybe better not know as need to be high for the dpf to regen.

The issue with labouring an engine is the extreme pressure on the crank bearings and big ends with lower oil pressure from normal gear oil pumps. Thats what should had been improved with the 2.2 oil pump, at the expense of the pump reliability! 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1057709 17th Jan 2025 9:57pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5877

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
custom90 wrote:
I agree avoiding labouring the engine is best practice, and avoid slipping clutch as well.


Labouring the engine probably comes from people’s traditional comparisons of diesels vs petrol, where they think that diesels are more economical, rev lower and have more torque than their petrol cousins.

Also that a diesel is a simple, agricultural lump which can handle anything thrown at it, ‘after all, aren’t they used in transit vans and tractors?’

Obviously modern petrol engines have caught up with diesel in this regard, but I think many people still drive diesels like a minicab driver, and get it into 5th, or where possible 6th, as quickly as possible, get the revs down to next to nothing, and assume the ‘better torque’ will do the rest.

The long held belief that on a diesel ‘lower revs are better’ and offer better fuel economy, with no real understanding of the realities of how a diesel engine works, its intricacies and how it should be used. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #1057719 18th Jan 2025 8:44am
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 589

England 
I have two failures. Both due to oil starvation. 1st one the oil pump disintegrated second a small piece of what appeared to be black Bakelite type plastic blocked a piston cooling jet. I personally rebuilt after each failure without having the block machined just rehoned at home.the failures were over 25k miles apart so am assuming unrelated I have access to proper measuring equipment and all was still in tolerances. This shows how some parts/systems are weak but others are more resilient.
Lessons learned
1. Change the oil pump from the variable veined type to the geared type to avoid this type of failure and then at 50 60 k intervals
2. Replace oil pick up plastic tube with new anytime the sump is off to avoid the second type of failure as this is where i suspect the plastic came from
Post #1057725 18th Jan 2025 9:40am
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 813

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Great advice Siwynne Thumbs Up

Jim
Post #1057744 18th Jan 2025 2:11pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5877

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Siwynne wrote:
I have two failures. Both due to oil starvation. 1st one the oil pump disintegrated second a small piece of what appeared to be black Bakelite type plastic blocked a piston cooling jet. I personally rebuilt after each failure without having the block machined just rehoned at home.the failures were over 25k miles apart so am assuming unrelated I have access to proper measuring equipment and all was still in tolerances. This shows how some parts/systems are weak but others are more resilient.
Lessons learned
1. Change the oil pump from the variable veined type to the geared type to avoid this type of failure and then at 50 60 k intervals
2. Replace oil pick up plastic tube with new anytime the sump is off to avoid the second type of failure as this is where i suspect the plastic came from


Hi Siwynne,

Can you explain more please, especially on point 1. Any photos or part numbers? Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #1057789 18th Jan 2025 9:36pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 129

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I think your two failures were just one. The second was debris from the first.
Post #1057791 18th Jan 2025 9:59pm
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 511

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Dinnu wrote:
On a 2.2 you can connect to obd and read the exhaust temperatures. But maybe better not know as need to be high for the dpf to regen.!


Active DPF regen is due to unburnt diesel injected directly via the manifold into the DPF. Then exhaust temp mounts (controlled by EGR) and diesel in the DPF burns (which causes high temp in DPF).
Passive DPF regen is a result from high combustion temps especially on motorways.
So temperatures for DPF regen are on standard high rev level.

But manifold temps rise on chipped and reprogrammed vehicles (especially with EGR off). These special cases (which are quite normal on the TD5/tdci) would better read out manifold temps and compare these to unmodified engines in order to get a clue on their engines' (and pistons') overheating. I believe that a TD5 (designed in the 90s by Land Rover) has higher reserves than the optimized and cost efficient 2.4 / 2.2 Ford tdci engine

Unfortunately, you don't get these important information when the engine is chipped or tuned (from supplier). But - higher engine performance will always be related to higher engine (piston) temps if the hardware (engine) remains unchanged ...
Post #1057804 19th Jan 2025 6:13am
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