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| Fataitch Member Since: 26 Oct 2024 Location: Hampshire Posts: 13   
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Evening all, I’m trying to find the source of an electrical issue that has caused the loss of my dipped beam on LED headlamps. All other lighting operating as normal.
Can someone tell me what’s this refers to please ? Labelled as C1264-2, C1265-2, C1266-2, C1267-2 - is it a junction box or some other connection ?  Click image to enlarge As said, I’ve suddenly lost my dipped beam, both sides. I’ve replaced the relay and column switch (which is getting power), without improvement. At the headlamp end, I get sidelights (12v ish across the connector) but no voltage when I switch to dipped beam. I’m losing power somewhere after the column switch. I don’t know what the symbols in the diagram refer to, so hoping this is a connector that I haven’t found yet. Any help appreciated. Thanks Hayden |
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19th Dec 2024 6:09pm |
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| Fataitch Member Since: 26 Oct 2024 Location: Hampshire Posts: 13
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Thankyou for that., Blackwolf !
Not the greatest news  |
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19th Dec 2024 6:47pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453
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The issue could be stalk related, the master switch is one side of it, but I seem to remember that there is contacts on the stalk that are used too that the dipped also uses and the pins and connections can get damaged or a connector popped off.
Though the stalk does engage main flash or locked main beam, I seem to remember dipped goes through there too. Alternatively it could be just the master switch that has burnt out, which is common. Taking a look, and testing with a Multimeter is ideal. My guess is one of these two, rather than anything external. If you do take the stalk assembly off, don’t over tighten the collar on the steering column, just lightly nipped up or it will shear then you’ll have a loose indicator / wash wipe assembly. If you don’t have a DMM (multimeter) visually check those pins when the switching is activated that they are making contact, and you can bridge if anything looks suspect to see if that does the trick. Check for any pins that might have the female side pop off, as it can happen by accident installing, they often aren’t that tight from the factory. 
If everything was okay before the installation, those things are suspect little else I’d be 90% sure on that. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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19th Dec 2024 6:53pm |
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| Fataitch Member Since: 26 Oct 2024 Location: Hampshire Posts: 13
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Custom90 - fairly sure I owe you a beer. Blackwolf worried me into checking again before I take the dash out, so I removed the column switches again, cleaned all the contacts and refreshed all the connections and BOOM !!! Lights working again.
Thankyou both, very much appreciated. Hayden |
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20th Dec 2024 12:37am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 
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Just to supplement my post above, below is a photo of the box containing the aforementioned connectors (note that the photo is of a left-hand drive vehicle). The connectors are in the long black plastic object in the upper centre of the photo (conveniently placed so that if the screenwasher pipe comes off its spigot the discharge will enter the head box and cause all manner of weird electrical malfunctions - ask me how I know!).
The vehicle in the photo has had the dash, heater, heater/demister ducting, and main dash support bar removed. Far from a trivial job (although the heater itself doesn't need to come out to access the connector box). The good news is that on the whole the headers/connectors are quite reliable. I thought the picture was worth posting since photos of this object are fairly rare, for obvious reasons. Click image to enlarge |
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20th Dec 2024 9:17am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453
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I remember seeing that, LR packed the whole loom through there pretty much except a few others on the chassis rail insides.
The washer jet and the attached pipe, and the Barb on the jet, I’m surprised they don’t come off more often, the jet it drive is a pain to change anyway. I’d suggest if anyone has the centre dash out and the washer jet is getting on a bit to change it whilst there, it’s a pain to do on its own so worth doing. Regards, the OP (Fataitch) No worries, guess how I know too I had a similar issue before and it was a headache for a week or two I can tell you. 
I traced it in the end, turns out it happens to other LR’s too. I believe it’s normal transmission vibration a lot of it, it’s common with Defenders not to mention the arduous conditions. Glad it’s sorted.  No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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20th Dec 2024 9:48am |
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| Fataitch Member Since: 26 Oct 2024 Location: Hampshire Posts: 13
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Blackwolf & Custom 90
You have no idea how useful that pic is. I’m finding so many things that have been cut out of the loom and left dangling (due to a “conversion’ from SCPU to soft top). I was a little worried as I’d been running some new speaker cables and stereo wiring through. I was really careful but still panicked when blackwolf mentioned the stereo area
I think I now have the essentials to survive, all working properly. I’ve also discovered I have an AS10 unit and an immobiliser ring around the ignition. I’d quite like a working immobiliser but not sure how much hassle reinstating the LR one will be. Thanks both Hayden |
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20th Dec 2024 4:58pm |
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