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MussEd



Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 354

Scotland 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue
Respray costs?
As part of my mission to cut down on water ingress I was looking at resealing my windscreen. Then my thoughts moved onto Treating the windscreen surround to paint refresh. On past results my skills with cans have been mixed so I popped into a local body shop whilst out and about this morning. Was quoted £250 to paint and have the windscreen resealed whilst they were at it.

£250 to have the work carried out by actual professionals who’ve done loads of defenders (showed me his gallery) and not a hamfisted mug who has to look up everything online. I thought that was a fair price? Any thoughts?

Oh and is ithe received wisdom to use genuine windscreen seals only or is an OEM number fine? Given my original leaked from the factory like( many others)I’m not sure the extra £££ The LR part will No doubt command will be worth it...
Post #888626 2nd Mar 2021 1:36pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5850

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
It cost me £450 to have a brand new bulkhead and a 2nd hand windscreen frame painted a few years ago
Just paid £500 to have both front wings, front grill area and bonnet painted to match the bulkhead.
Two different spray shops. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #888653 2nd Mar 2021 4:12pm
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FD7



Member Since: 16 Feb 2021
Location: Midland
Posts: 170

2006 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Auto Chawton White
I had someone quote me £7k for a normal respray on a 90. The landy wasn't that bad to justify that price if I'm honest.

The way they spoke, it seemed they REALLY wanted me to have to pay them if they were to do the job.


Interested if any decent bodyshops who can do it considerably fairer.
Post #889111 4th Mar 2021 9:14pm
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Leamreject



Member Since: 19 Dec 2020
Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa
Posts: 970

Italy 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Fuji White
You don’t get much for £250 so if they do a good job once the screen is out, it sounds like a bargain Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do…
2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT
Post #889116 4th Mar 2021 9:29pm
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C90



Member Since: 19 Nov 2024
Location: Essex
Posts: 17

England 
Bumping this thread.

Does anyone have any 2024 prices to respray a 90? Keeping the current colour or a change out of interest. Cheers!
Post #1053736 3rd Dec 2024 2:44pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20443

United Kingdom 
Probably £2200 to £2600 for a 90 I’d imagine.

Energy costs for the booth is a real thing, especially this time of year the atmospheric moisture needs to be well below 60% humidity and very very clean, plus approx 21 - 26.C approx.

So that needs a professional paint booth, most of the price is prep too. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1053738 3rd Dec 2024 2:50pm
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AJC



Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1364

United Kingdom 
i recall paying £1500 for a full paint to my sierra some 14 years ago

same job now minimum £4500
Post #1053745 3rd Dec 2024 4:20pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
C90 wrote:
Bumping this thread.

Does anyone have any 2024 prices to respray a 90? Keeping the current colour or a change out of interest. Cheers!


Give CSK automotive a call for a quote https://www.cskautomotive.co.uk/the-land-r...hop-valet/
Post #1053761 3rd Dec 2024 6:53pm
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Defendit..



Member Since: 09 Aug 2020
Location: 's-Hertogenbosch
Posts: 431

Netherlands 
I've done a respray on the new 90 just 2 years ago. Just a 2K solid color.
Did everything myself except sanding, masking and spraying.
For professional quality between £ 3k / £ 4k

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic85741.html No Mud flaps for my 90.!
-----------------------------------------
P300s MY21 Keswick Green on air, adv.+ offroad pack, DRL+fog, Dinamica Suedecloth + Ebony headliner/Cross Beam- Many Mods..
Post #1053766 3rd Dec 2024 8:53pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2642

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
C90 wrote:
Bumping this thread.

Does anyone have any 2024 prices to respray a 90? Keeping the current colour or a change out of interest. Cheers!


We just paid close to 14k for a ford Capri paint job....


perfect job.
Post #1053767 3rd Dec 2024 9:16pm
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 803

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Hi

I guess that it all depends on where you go and the quality of the finish you want?

Most accident repair body shops work on £200-£250 trade and £300-£400 private per body panel. I would guess that a small one man band may offer a full respray for £1500. Large body shop £4000.

Jim
Post #1053774 4th Dec 2024 4:10am
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
People are giving all sorts of numbers without specifying the job -

There will be a difference between a base + clear job, and a single stage job.


When asking for prices it's important to specific what you require.

Modern cars are almost entirely done in base + clear, but that may not be so applicable to a landrover.
Post #1053787 4th Dec 2024 10:06am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5829

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Out of interest Julian, what would you say was ‘stuitable’ for a Defender. I’m a bit lost with all these different coats and layers. I’m thinking of having mine resprayed but I want to cut costs and so do the rub back myself. But once it’s back to metal, I’ve no idea how many coats, or what type of coats I should then be asking for. This would be for a solid, but not concours quality, finish in its current colour, Corris Grey and for a DCPU that is my daily driver. Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #1053809 4th Dec 2024 4:02pm
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Quote:
Out of interest Julian, what would you say was ‘stuitable’ for a Defender. I’m a bit lost with all these different coats and layers. I’m thinking of having mine resprayed but I want to cut costs and so do the rub back myself. But once it’s back to metal, I’ve no idea how many coats, or what type of coats I should then be asking for. This would be for a solid, but not concours quality, finish in its current colour, Corris Grey and for a DCPU that is my daily driver.


So...

I spend half my life spraying alloy, but not car stuff at all.


However, i getting around to doing my own defender, and ill use single stage, as i dont want the bother of clear coat if i need to do repairs.

This is in the back of the 110 at the moment. Im changing it from rattly windows to 88 sides -


Click image to enlarge



Anyway, different people like different things. I can only talk about what im doing to my own 110.

Again, i want a finish that, if i scrape it on a bank, i can just go over it quickly. I dont want to mess about with clear. So its all epoxy and 2K Polyurethane. But mine is very much a working vehicle. Someone who wants an oversized city car would want clear, im sure.

This photo of my stack of mistakes may explain somthing, or may just confuse further!



Click image to enlarge




The panel, when i purchased it, was pretty battered, and brush painted in some sort of oil based paint.

I kind of flattened it a bit, and epoxied it. Epoxy, if you keep the thinners right down, has low reactivity with dubious substrate layers. It still bubbled a bit though.

I think i then sprayed it with some high build (which is, pretty much, the same as normal filler, but in a sprayable form)

...and then realised what a mess it was still in, and how i should have spent way longer on the initial beating!


From the photo, it looks like i then used dolphinglaze - which is just a thin filler, and then i clearly sanded though the whole lot, as my prior prep was so bad, and went back to bare metal in places. So then i would have had to epoxy it again.

This is entirely the wrong way to do it!



I should have spent more time beating it to start with, then epoxy, then dolphin glaze, then, ideally not broken though, but thats always unlikely, then epoxy, then high build, flatting, then top.

I, almost certainly, made more work for myself by trying to fit bits in between other paid jobs, and skip on too quick etc. Again, i spray alloy for work, but theyre (mostly) all new parts, so no body work required.


If youre diy'ing most of yours, have a think about if you are happy to do the epoxy. You dont need expensive breathing kit for epoxy, and its really needed if youre doing any filler work, as it will seal up the filler, and stop it sucking up water.
Post #1053824 4th Dec 2024 6:09pm
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