C90 wrote:

Bumping this thread.

Does anyone have any 2024 prices to respray a 90? Keeping the current colour or a change out of interest. Cheers!

C90 wrote:

Bumping this thread.

Does anyone have any 2024 prices to respray a 90? Keeping the current colour or a change out of interest. Cheers!

Quote:

Out of interest Julian, what would you say was ‘stuitable’ for a Defender. I’m a bit lost with all these different coats and layers. I’m thinking of having mine resprayed but I want to cut costs and so do the rub back myself. But once it’s back to metal, I’ve no idea how many coats, or what type of coats I should then be asking for. This would be for a solid, but not concours quality, finish in its current colour, Corris Grey and for a DCPU that is my daily driver.

So...

I spend half my life spraying alloy, but not car stuff at all.


However, i getting around to doing my own defender, and ill use single stage, as i dont want the bother of clear coat if i need to do repairs.

This is in the back of the 110 at the moment. Im changing it from rattly windows to 88 sides -


Click image to enlarge


Anyway, different people like different things. I can only talk about what im doing to my own 110.

Again, i want a finish that, if i scrape it on a bank, i can just go over it quickly. I dont want to mess about with clear. So its all epoxy and 2K Polyurethane. But mine is very much a working vehicle. Someone who wants an oversized city car would want clear, im sure.

This photo of my stack of mistakes may explain somthing, or may just confuse further!



Click image to enlarge



The panel, when i purchased it, was pretty battered, and brush painted in some sort of oil based paint.

I kind of flattened it a bit, and epoxied it. Epoxy, if you keep the thinners right down, has low reactivity with dubious substrate layers. It still bubbled a bit though.

I think i then sprayed it with some high build (which is, pretty much, the same as normal filler, but in a sprayable form)

...and then realised what a mess it was still in, and how i should have spent way longer on the initial beating!


From the photo, it looks like i then used dolphinglaze - which is just a thin filler, and then i clearly sanded though the whole lot, as my prior prep was so bad, and went back to bare metal in places. So then i would have had to epoxy it again.

This is entirely the wrong way to do it!



I should have spent more time beating it to start with, then epoxy, then dolphin glaze, then, ideally not broken though, but thats always unlikely, then epoxy, then high build, flatting, then top.

I, almost certainly, made more work for myself by trying to fit bits in between other paid jobs, and skip on too quick etc. Again, i spray alloy for work, but theyre (mostly) all new parts, so no body work required.


If youre diy'ing most of yours, have a think about if you are happy to do the epoxy. You dont need expensive breathing kit for epoxy, and its really needed if youre doing any filler work, as it will seal up the filler, and stop it sucking up water.