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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 20   
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The holes are visible without taking things apart. Look over the vacuum pump and you should see the gasket sticking out. I have two holes, see picture.
I don't think you'll visibly see exhaust gases in the coolant, but might be wrong. There are some test kits you can buy that will detect this. They will check for CO2 in the coolant. Hope that helps. |
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15th Oct 2024 12:25pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737  
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Outstanding! Thank you, Johan_B!
Keep all the advice and knowledge coming!  No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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16th Oct 2024 12:46am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737
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Looks like I have the two hole gasket as well.
Further developments, after driving home and shutting down the engine, I opened the coolant reservoir cap a quarter turn to release air pressure as with bleeding it and all seemed well. Added some more coolant just to be sure. Took another drive somewhere, it lasted about 2 hours in horrendous traffic, parked then drive home in less than an hour. Upon turning off the truck I noticed coolant streaks trickling down from the driver's side (left side, LHD) when I opened the bonnet, no coolant from the reservoir moved to the other side and it seem to come from a big hose from what I'm thinking is the water pump to the engine block. There was also some coolant under it and caught on a "shelf" on the block. It continued to leak slowly when the engine cooled. This morning, when starting the truck, the leaking persisted and upon getting to the office and turning off the truck, saw the coolant still leaking from the aforementioned area. I opened the reservoir cap a quarter turn to see if there was still pressure, there was a bit but upon doing that, the leaking on the driver's side seemed to stop. So definitely air in the system but unsure if that was because of the improper fill from one of the shops it has been at or there really is something else wrong somewhere. Found a place selling the Havoline proper spec coolant at a reasonable price so will buy a box (12L) and will try to properly top off and bleed the system and see what happens then. I'm hopping this will solve the problem. If it doesn't, will have to replace, vacuum pump, water pump, power steering pump, all associated hoses the the pumps mentioned, cylinder head gasket and associated bolts  Sometimes I just wish I could knock over a bank to fix everything 
Given this new data, anyone have insight or suggestions? No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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17th Oct 2024 3:36am |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 817  
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Can you see exactly where it’s coming from as from memory (did my water pump 6 months ago) there is a pump then a plastic distribution set of pipes behind it, could be you don’t need to replace all just this part. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.
5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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17th Oct 2024 5:01am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8033  
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It stopped leaking when you undid the expansion res cap as you released the pressure.
Meant in the nicest way and from your replies and my interpretation of your comments I think you would save money taking it to someone with experience and more knowledge. Your list is not needed for majority. It needs proper investigation. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop Last edited by jst on 21st Oct 2024 12:26pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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17th Oct 2024 6:36am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 20
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I am inclined to agree with James (jst) both on his observations and recommendation.
But in the event that finding an experienced and trustworthy car mechanic proofs to be difficult, my advice would be to apply structure to the problem solving. It seems you have four problems that can be observed: 1) Coolant is leaking from the system. 2) Oil is leaking from the vacuum pump. 3) One or several wheel bearings have play in them. At least that is what you stated earlier. 4) A noise that sounds like a turbo 2) can be put aside for now, not your biggest concern. 1) & 3) should be fixed before any further investigation can be done. 4) need to be evaluated when 1 & 3 is fixed. Identify where the coolant leak is, can be hard but has to be done. Replace the part causing the leak and at the same time the expansion tank and cap. Flush the system and fill with new coolant. Follow the bleeding instruction in the WSM. Check all wheel bearings for play, tighten or replace as necessary. If they are the original ones with one lock nut and a spacer I guess tightening is out of the question. If you can obtain Land Rovers power steering fluid, top up the reservoir. Only now can further investigation be done. Is the noise still there? Is something still dripping? But again, find a good mechanic if possible. In any case they have the right tools for the job and should find the leak wherever it is. |
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17th Oct 2024 12:39pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737
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Hi All!
I did do some further investigation on this and it seems that it is the oil cooler that is leaking the coolant. How did I come to this conclusion? I observed the truck after topping off and the leak would stop after the first liter or two is refilled. Ran the engine until the leak started and started to feel around all the hoses and parts avoiding the moving parts and saw that there is a spray coming from the oil cooler.
At first it would only leak with the engine warm but now it just leaks. Just to experiment, I let the truck cool and see how much I add in to top it all off again and it takes 3 liters to do so.  Sadly, it seems now be leaking all the time so really need to sort this out first.
I guess this means I need to replace the oil cooler first. Sadly, there are no more oil coolers with the plastic cup and I guess this means I have to "upgrade" to the spin on filter type. I agree with jst and Johan_B that once this is sorted, I can then start trouble shooting the other issues. I will also check the distribution pipes that Race.it suggested as well even if they seemed dry during my run inspection two days ago as I guess you never know. Incidentally, I saw some part pricing on the web and saw that transit equivalents are hella cheaper! In the interest of saving my bank account for now, would it be a good idea to install these transit parts for the meantime? I can always replace them with "G" suffixed parts when the funds present themselves in the future. If this is a viable solution, how can I do the cross reference between Land Rover and Ford parts? Is there a site other than eBay where I can get said Ford parts if this is the way to go? I'm not relying on the local Ford dealers. Keep the input and advice coming! No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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19th Oct 2024 5:22am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737
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Anybody?
No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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21st Oct 2024 3:02am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 20
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Good that you found the leak!
I wouldn’t hesitate to use Ford parts as long as I knew it was the right part. How to find the Ford p/n I do not know. Reading here on other threads a few people has had leakage from an oil cooler thermostat, search and you will find. That part is cheaper than the full oil cooler. You might be able to see that the leak comes from this part. I wouldn’t drive the car with this big leak in the system. If it is necessary I would carry sufficient supply of coolant and make frequent stops to check and top up. |
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21st Oct 2024 6:58am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737
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Hi All!
Starting to think that maybe the leak is not the oil cooler but possibly the EGR. Haven't been driving him around since the traction control was acting up, probably due to the loose wheel bearing so he's benched until I can get the parts my mechanic asked for. Speaking of, one of those, as I probably mentioned, is a cylinder head gasket as he sees the truck shutting down once and just going into limp mode from temperature as drastic overheating. He's mulling over having the head skimmed as he suspects that it may already be warped. This being the case, since I currently have a two toothed cylinder head gasket, does this mean I now have to get the three toothed one now? Since I'm unsure of this, I plant to just buy both two and three toothed gasket and hope for the best. In any case, I've been reading up on the cylinder head gasket threads on here and it seems that most of the symptoms are somewhat the same and just changing the head fixed it. I'm starting to think that the leak developed because of the system pressurizing and that particular part just couldn't take it anymore. In any case, since the head is coming off anyway, we're now planning to do a complete overhaul as the engine already has almost 130,000 kilometers on it. Changing out the timing chain now too among other bits and bobs. Advice and insight are still welcome. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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28th Oct 2024 6:20am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 20
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Hi!
There are more qualified people around to give advice on this, but I would think that there are ways to confirm a faulty head gasket before taking the engine apart. Compression test of the cylinders, and once the external coolant leak is fixed, a pressure test of the cooling system + the CO2 test mentioned earlier. If any of those fail, you would have to investigate further as it could be other causes. The teeth on the gasket is connected to the protrusion of the pistons. That will not change, but I am not sure if skimming the top will have any effect on this, possibly the valves protrude a bit further after that. |
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28th Oct 2024 7:59am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387  
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Remember that if the EGR cooler is leaking it may leak coolant externally but also internally into the exhaust gas flow and hence into the inlet manifold and cylinders. It can cause symptoms similar to a head gasket leak but it less likely to pressurise the cooling system since the exhaust gas pressure is not that high.
It is certainly easier to remove and thoroughly check the EGR cooler (even though it is an awkward thing to get at) than it is to remove the head. |
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28th Oct 2024 8:39am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 737
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Great advice, Johan_B and blackwolf!
Will see to these as well. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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29th Oct 2024 4:12am |
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