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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 5   
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The holes are visible without taking things apart. Look over the vacuum pump and you should see the gasket sticking out. I have two holes, see picture.
I don't think you'll visibly see exhaust gases in the coolant, but might be wrong. There are some test kits you can buy that will detect this. They will check for CO2 in the coolant. Hope that helps. |
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15th Oct 2024 1:25pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 725  
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Outstanding! Thank you, Johan_B!
Keep all the advice and knowledge coming!  No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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16th Oct 2024 1:46am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 725
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Looks like I have the two hole gasket as well.
Further developments, after driving home and shutting down the engine, I opened the coolant reservoir cap a quarter turn to release air pressure as with bleeding it and all seemed well. Added some more coolant just to be sure. Took another drive somewhere, it lasted about 2 hours in horrendous traffic, parked then drive home in less than an hour. Upon turning off the truck I noticed coolant streaks trickling down from the driver's side (left side, LHD) when I opened the bonnet, no coolant from the reservoir moved to the other side and it seem to come from a big hose from what I'm thinking is the water pump to the engine block. There was also some coolant under it and caught on a "shelf" on the block. It continued to leak slowly when the engine cooled. This morning, when starting the truck, the leaking persisted and upon getting to the office and turning off the truck, saw the coolant still leaking from the aforementioned area. I opened the reservoir cap a quarter turn to see if there was still pressure, there was a bit but upon doing that, the leaking on the driver's side seemed to stop. So definitely air in the system but unsure if that was because of the improper fill from one of the shops it has been at or there really is something else wrong somewhere. Found a place selling the Havoline proper spec coolant at a reasonable price so will buy a box (12L) and will try to properly top off and bleed the system and see what happens then. I'm hopping this will solve the problem. If it doesn't, will have to replace, vacuum pump, water pump, power steering pump, all associated hoses the the pumps mentioned, cylinder head gasket and associated bolts  Sometimes I just wish I could knock over a bank to fix everything 
Given this new data, anyone have insight or suggestions? No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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17th Oct 2024 4:36am |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 807  
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Can you see exactly where it’s coming from as from memory (did my water pump 6 months ago) there is a pump then a plastic distribution set of pipes behind it, could be you don’t need to replace all just this part. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.
5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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17th Oct 2024 6:01am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7939  
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It stopped leaking when you undid the expansion res cap as you're leased the pressure.
Meant in the nicest way and from your replies and my interpretation of your comments I think you would save money taking it to someone with experience and more knowledge. Your list is not needed for majority. It needs proper investigation. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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17th Oct 2024 7:36am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 5
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I am inclined to agree with James (jst) both on his observations and recommendation.
But in the event that finding an experienced and trustworthy car mechanic proofs to be difficult, my advice would be to apply structure to the problem solving. It seems you have four problems that can be observed: 1) Coolant is leaking from the system. 2) Oil is leaking from the vacuum pump. 3) One or several wheel bearings have play in them. At least that is what you stated earlier. 4) A noise that sounds like a turbo 2) can be put aside for now, not your biggest concern. 1) & 3) should be fixed before any further investigation can be done. 4) need to be evaluated when 1 & 3 is fixed. Identify where the coolant leak is, can be hard but has to be done. Replace the part causing the leak and at the same time the expansion tank and cap. Flush the system and fill with new coolant. Follow the bleeding instruction in the WSM. Check all wheel bearings for play, tighten or replace as necessary. If they are the original ones with one lock nut and a spacer I guess tightening is out of the question. If you can obtain Land Rovers power steering fluid, top up the reservoir. Only now can further investigation be done. Is the noise still there? Is something still dripping? But again, find a good mechanic if possible. In any case they have the right tools for the job and should find the leak wherever it is. |
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17th Oct 2024 1:39pm |
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