↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Swivels
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
Swivels
I need to do some maintenance on the swivels on my 90 soon, there is no problem with them at all, no leaks, no issues touch wood.
(I assume I’m correct in doing them one sachet per swivel, each major service).

What grease and method do you all use?
Presumably I’m guessing the Gen one shot grease is most popular?
( STC 3435 )

There is britpart sachets, all makes, and the bottles, the latter here would be too much and go off I would have thought.

I’ve read about warming them is helpful to liquify them more before applying, and that the grease is a more “wet” grease.
The plugs seem to be square drive, that likely needs a little PTFE tape on when refitting for sealing and just nipped up not tightened too much.
I seem to remember the steering needs to be turned away from you, so you can get it in to apply it.

I am assuming LR with the Puma moved over to grease rather than oil due to leaks?, was the TD5 oil or grease?
The Puma doesn’t seem to have a drain, as it isn’t oil, did the TD5 have a drain?

I know this subject has been discussed many times, I just wondered what everyone is using mainly. Very Happy

Strange how there doesn’t seem to be replacement fill plugs readily available, not that they are needed that often.
I couldn’t seem to see any details regarding replacement items on those on the diagrams.
I find it’s a good idea to put a spray of of black Dinitrol over drain and fill plugs once fitted, keeps corrosion at bay and keeps the plugs in A1 condition, and no problem removing and refitting. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1045348 9th Sep 2024 7:41pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8010

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I use cv grease straight out of grease gun. It's easier and cheaper. You can work out amount needed.

Warm sachet in water if your going to use them, turn steering to lock to open up hole.

How you getting the old grease out.

And if its not contaminated, why? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1045361 9th Sep 2024 8:58pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 732

Philippines 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Just curious, my swivel seals need replacement and I needed to top off the grease here. Using the rated grease as per manual, any disadvantages to filling to the brim? No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy
Post #1045517 11th Sep 2024 8:40am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
They are a supposed to be 330 - 350ml max each, I don’t think you can reliably tell how much is in there even when dipping with a zip tie or something similar, but you can tell if the swivels get dry, leak or become scored visually externally. If greased then leaking isn’t quite so much of an issue like oil would be on previous generations.

It’s when these things get dry, the grease drys up and significant wear happens rapidly so, that’s why I prefer a little top up of greases often.
I don’t think you can clear it out really, without a full dismantle, and contamination luckily isn’t an issue.

The CV’s and swivels are parts I have never had to touch before, regards the swivels, what is the purpose of the shims? Presumably minor adjustment ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1045519 11th Sep 2024 8:54am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 737

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
The shims are vitality important to the swivel housing pre-load......lots of stuff about that job on here Thumbs Up
Post #1045520 11th Sep 2024 8:58am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3410

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Just keep in mind that even though you do not see external leaks on the swivels, the grease might migrate into the diff housing. You can tell if that is happening when the diff oil is darker than normal. Its not an issue for the diff, a bit of molybdenum is good for the gears, perhaps less so for the bearings, but is an issue for the CV is not enough grease remains. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1045522 11th Sep 2024 9:58am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MarkBrown



Member Since: 03 Oct 2022
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 454

Wales 1983 Defender 110 Other HT Auto Keswick Green
You’ve got to set the preload with the shims, or it will shake and drive you nuts! If yuk is coming out then there’s yuk in. If there’s no yuk then either it’s sealed beautifully or it’s got no yuk in. My swivels are most probably the original chrome ones and still good, even though it sat for 15 years.
Post #1045574 11th Sep 2024 4:34pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums