 | Home > Td5 > engine management light / missfire |
 
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248   
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Long shot - water got into the fuel system somehow or water ingress into the air filter ?
Bob |
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3rd Dec 2011 8:50pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253 
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Is it smoking at all? if so what colour?
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3rd Dec 2011 8:57pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452 
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Hi mike, not my day. No no smoke. Started as intermittent misfire that got worse. Then yellow eng managent light and no rev at all. Stuck at hotel scratching head?
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3rd Dec 2011 9:01pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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check the dipstick - is the oil a bit milky? if it is don't start it again.
just wondering about the crankcase breather but that exits into the air pipe anyway.. If it's starting ok and ticks over and the engine doesnt sound like a bag of old spanner then its not been hydrolocked If there is no water in the airbox at all and the filter is dry with no signs of having been wet (ie wavy) then I guess it must be electrical/electronic. Do you know someone close by with a diagnostic? that will tell you pretty quickly, but clearly its water related. |
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3rd Dec 2011 9:27pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452
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Mike it ticks over as normal. Air box bone dry. Long way from home as you know. When. tixking over and push avcelerator pedal then you get yellow engine light. Oil is normal.
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3rd Dec 2011 9:33pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2644  
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Hi Amond
Good to meet you today Sorry to hear of your problem Found a couple threads with a similar issue: 'Vacuum hose between modulator and turbo outlet hose had a crack in it' and this TD5, 80k miles, with a fsh started 'misfiring' under load and above about 2,500 RPM. Of course being a diesel misfire is not the correct term - but it ran rough and would not pull, seemed short on power. The problem was only apparent under load, when accelerating hard, or uphill and only when revs got beyond 2,500 or so, although this varied a little between 2,500 and about 2,900. The injector harness has been changed for a new one with improved sealing. No problems starting, idling or driving gently about town or up to about 65mph so long as acceleration is gentle. A dealer check showed no fault codes, although the air flow was a little low so they swapped out a MAF meter, no improvement, so they put the old one back in free ( amazing) After lots of searching on the internet I cam up with a long list and started at with the simplest and cheapest items. Step 1) Checked red plug on ECU, still some oil despite injector harness change, must be residual oil in engine harness, cleaned it out, no improvement Step 2) Checked other end of harness where new injector harness plugs into engine harness, no oil step 3) Removed turbo heat shield and disconnected wastegate actuator rod, found wastegate to be very stiff. It freed up easily with some oil, replaced everything and problem solved - its great to have full power back. It seems as if the wastegate was not opening under heavy load, so boost pressure was getting too high and so the ECU was shutting down fuelling to protect the engine, hence the rough running and poor performance. Hope that you get it fixed soon Mark |
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3rd Dec 2011 9:35pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452
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Thanks mark will have look at hoses etc in light in morn. Don't fancy low loader home!
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3rd Dec 2011 9:41pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101 
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thottle pedal get wet?
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3rd Dec 2011 9:43pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452
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Yes I suppose it did a bit. Had some water come into footwells mostly under mats tho.
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3rd Dec 2011 9:47pm |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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If you've got the MIL illuminated ot could be the crank sensor having a fit - it can get dirty inside the bell housing and water ingress makes it difficult to keep the sensor clean enough to run at higher revs.
Its easy with a Defender to pull the sensor and quickly check to see if it is dirty. Is the clutch on its way out at all? |
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3rd Dec 2011 9:56pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452
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Is the crank cas3 sensor easy to find / access?
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3rd Dec 2011 10:01pm |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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It's the crank shaft sensor you are after. If you open the bonnet and stand on the driver side to look at the bell housing at the back of the engine, if you look closely there is a bolt holding a black sensor and multiplug to the bellhousing.
Without a clear signal from this sensor you'll get a misfire as the engine loses the signal to time the engine. |
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3rd Dec 2011 10:10pm |
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| amondeggs Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Telford Posts: 452
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Thanks to all that have replied. Phone now flat, I'm nackered so please of you have any more ideas please post and I will read th in am..
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3rd Dec 2011 10:11pm |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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Best I can find to help you. |
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3rd Dec 2011 10:31pm |
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