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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3419

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I believe Landrover used to glue the output flange to the splines. Perhaps it is a good idea to do that too, because a little backlash on the splines might undo the nut. The glue will also serves as an extra protection against leaks. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1041801 4th Aug 2024 7:23am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Well just tested in reverse still have the juddering so the front flange close to falling off was not the cause, it’s not as violent in reverse now but still juddering, so rear prop will be off once I manage to get the tool.

In the mean time I’ll empty/refil the transfer case just to ensure the oil I lost from the front flange is back inside.

Note it’s leaking from intermediate shaft and has been “fixed” before with some sealent, which we know does not stick to oil that’s why I have the new case ready to go in. But want to ensure I am not putting the case on and then issue is with the gearbox. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1041804 4th Aug 2024 7:55am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20433

United Kingdom 
Perhaps you could contact Ashcroft transmissions and discuss it, they probably maybe able to guide you in the right direction as to what the issues likely are.
That’s if internal, but as I said do check the UJ’s thoroughly, but if they are okay then they are. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Last edited by custom90 on 4th Aug 2024 12:01pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1041807 4th Aug 2024 9:01am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks, yep today will attempt to check the handbrake, though I am fighting the outside temperature (so humid and just undoing a small bolt/nut it’s like jumping in a pool)

And there is no wind to help me get cooler Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1041808 4th Aug 2024 9:15am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20433

United Kingdom 
Ah yes, it was like that over here about 3 or 4 days ago.
Humidity incredibly high in the evening approx 6pm too. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1041819 4th Aug 2024 12:02pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
So managed to clean up front prop, and refit, also whilst there checked out the handbrake, all feels and looks fine with that. Though I have adjusted it so it’s not pointing towards the rear door when it’s applied 😂😂.

So playing around more in reverse up an incline I have had it jump out of high gear, so thought output shaft had gone till I noticed the leaver had moved.

So that lead me to test high/low gear in reverse, in low gear no vibrations, in high gear still the vibrations.

https://youtube.com/shorts/wVvW11uZKi4

So I’ll try to call Ashcrofts tomorrow as they maybe have seen this before. Don’t really want to put a new transfer case in it, to still have the issue if it’s something else.

On the positive side I am getting lots of new tools 😂😂 Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1041839 4th Aug 2024 4:08pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20433

United Kingdom 
New tools is good, they end up being used again. Rolling with laughter

Good luck with the Ashcroft call, Dave knows his stuff there with the driveline.
Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1041843 4th Aug 2024 4:14pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3419

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Race.it wrote:


https://youtube.com/shorts/wVvW11uZKi4



That is some serious vibration there.

Is the clutch fully released when the vibration occurs in high range?
Do you get same vibrations in low gear but higher engine rpm?

As I understand from earlier posts, happens on reverse only. Still the case? If so, my suspect is an engine mount, as that would try to ‘rotate’ the engine/gearbox assembly in opposite direction, effectively increasing load on one pair of mountings on one side of engine/gearbox. Note that it could be an engine mount, not gearbox mount.

The gears are helical, so they also reverse thrust on bearings going in reverse. But I would think there would be more noise/issues if bearings are faulty. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1041846 4th Aug 2024 4:30pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8049

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
He not keen to check mounts. It's been suggested a few times.... Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1041887 4th Aug 2024 10:42pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20433

United Kingdom 
When I had significant drivetrain movement / vibration it was UJ related with the props due to imbalance with a failed bearing cup, just one. It was worst at 1 to 8mph approx, better at higher speeds due to increased RPM the vibration or shudder was less pronounced, more so at lower speed.

That was just the case with mine, it also knackered the rear diff pinion oil seal and made that elliptical and lose, a year or two later the A frame ball joint needed replacing too so probably added to that as well.
Realistically all caused by a grease nipple that had grown legs at some point.
Props and drive flanges are most common imo for imbalance, possibly pushed down the line by engine mounts as mentioned or trans mounts.
I had transmission mounts replaced on mine, but they didn’t need to be.
I had the engine mounts checked and they were okay too.

A lot can be found by just pulling stuff around or bouncing the suspension, the latter being more of a problem to do with a 110 or bigger though but you can get enough movement by hand usually to tell if anything is up or with sensible use of a pry bar. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1041911 5th Aug 2024 8:11am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
jst wrote:
He not keen to check mounts. It's been suggested a few times....

I have checked mounts, all are present and still attached, I have tried to jack up gearbox and engine and they dont separate, I have new gearbox mounts to go on, just to remove this from the equation, but I can not see why they are causing it. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1041947 5th Aug 2024 12:56pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Dinnu wrote:
Race.it wrote:


https://youtube.com/shorts/wVvW11uZKi4



That is some serious vibration there.

Is the clutch fully released when the vibration occurs in high range?
Do you get same vibrations in low gear but higher engine rpm?

As I understand from earlier posts, happens on reverse only. Still the case? If so, my suspect is an engine mount, as that would try to ‘rotate’ the engine/gearbox assembly in opposite direction, effectively increasing load on one pair of mountings on one side of engine/gearbox. Note that it could be an engine mount, not gearbox mount.

The gears are helical, so they also reverse thrust on bearings going in reverse. But I would think there would be more noise/issues if bearings are faulty.

yep clutch gets fully released on the vibration (same when in low gear), if I go up the incline quicker then the vibration goes away (or feels like it does)
It's only on reverse that I can see, going to try in diff lock and not diff lock tonight. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1041948 5th Aug 2024 1:00pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20433

United Kingdom 
Do you have a Camera you could use like a Go Pro type of thing? You could stick that underneath and look for any movements on certain areas.
Bearing in mind I wouldn’t try an iPhone or anything like that due to the high possibility of damage but just an idea if you have a type of camera you could secure underneath to see what is happening, you may be able to see exactly what area is doing it most.

If you did try a camera make sure it’s very secure though, but just an idea. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1041971 5th Aug 2024 2:46pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Been using my iPhone, and that’s let’s just say interesting and quite nerve racking. From what I could see from various videos when I have done this the whole drive train looked knochey (prob spelt wrong) but I could not isolate easily what was the root cause, it’s more time underneath pulling parts off to see and try to repeat. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1041974 5th Aug 2024 2:55pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8049

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Ok, I thought from reading you just took props off. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1042163 7th Aug 2024 10:25pm
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