 | Home > Technical > Battery dead - fob not sync/working |
 
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13   
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Hi All, Im new to this forum and to defender ownership !
I just bought a lovely 130 HCPU on Monday and stupidly knocked the switch of rear auxiliary lights on the roof a left it on all evening and the next morning - went today and was baffled as the fob would not open the door - then after a few checks realised the battery was dead !!! - tried to start the car it ticked over for a second and stopped - did this a few times with no hope! So after reading a few comments and forums etc realised the immobiliser is probably doing its job but now my fobs are not working - I bought a battery booster - but I might as well take that back as if every time the battery dies I cannot jump lead start it what’s the point !? Or I’m a missing something here? Whenever the battery dies you looses essentially the synced fobs ? I’m charging the battery tonight and will connect up tomorrow but I’m worried this whole polava of trying to resynch isnt going to work!!? Is worth getting remote keys to send a fob and programme ? Or this should work ? Also having read about the EKA code - looked in my book they have the car key code but where it says EKA it’s 1A38 ?? I’m sure it states everywhere should be only digits? On my spare keys there is also a a thin metal card with 4 digits on it in addition to another round metal card which has a different number relating the car key - could this be the EKA? If anyone has experienced this and would care to shed some light as I’m out ideas if not! Not a great start 5 days in !! Cheers Greg |
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28th Jul 2024 10:10pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17359 
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The EKA was never supplied as a tag on the keyring (this is probably the key number and/or possibly the radio code). The radio code could also often be found on a label in the vicinity of the battery when the vehicle left the factory.
The only ways I know the obtain the EKA are either to ask Land-Rover or else to interrogate the alarm ECU with a diagnostic tool in order to read the stored code. The former of course only works if the EKA code hasn't been changed, although it is rare that anyone changes the EKA code. |
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29th Jul 2024 7:42am |
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13
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Yeah thanks for the replies - I thought as much - called JLR customer support and they will source me the number - need to send a copy of the V5 / ownership - before they send the code ! I will wait on that - but hopefully once I connect the battery hopefully it’s straight forward to desynchronise the immobiliser with the fobs and get back on the road!! Can’t believe my luck 5 days in ! Wife giving big stares already !
Thanks again! |
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29th Jul 2024 1:43pm |
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13
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Apparently my code is 1A38 A = 10!! Hit the email from jaguar ! So confusing this 🤦♂️
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29th Jul 2024 1:50pm |
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| Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 730  
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It is some time since I had to use the EKA code, so may be wrong.
You only need the EKA code to open the car when the fob doesn't work and the battery in the car has charge. This prevents the alarm going off if you have a BBUs fitted. If the fob doesn't work, then you can open the car with the key. If alarm fitted then the alarm may sound. Not certain at this stage if inserting the key into ignition cancels alarm. It seems as though you opened the car using the key and had no alarm , so probably no BBus fitted, or BBus separate battery flat or failed. Best to charge the battery off the car and change the battery in the fob. When everything reconnected, then resync the fob to the car, usually by locking and unlocking 4 times. f you have no BBus alarm, then don't think the EKa code is relevant to your problem. |
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29th Jul 2024 4:30pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17359
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The process for using the EKA is well described in the owner's handbook, but I cannot find a PDF of the Puma version online. The image pasted below is from a 1997 handbook but the process hasn't changed.
Note that the EKA and the BBUS are not in any way related and that you will get loud noises from the vehicle throughout the process (hello neighbours!). In this respect the process is entirely different from the Disco2 process which is silent.  Click image to enlarge |
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30th Jul 2024 11:49am |
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13
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Cheers guys for the response ! - its a crazy mystery - so i had my controller and receiver checked and fobs and they are all working on a plugged system ! so its really odd that they didn't before removing them - it seems the eka or the unit had been changed in the pass as it has a different eka that the manufactures as seen on the PC - so will install tomorrow and give an update ! I'm tempted to just bypass the whole palaver and go back to the good old key in ignition and go!!
Thanks again for your help lads! Installed the LOF light spring for the clutch whilst i was at it ! definitely lighter ! just a note ! |
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31st Jul 2024 8:43pm |
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13
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Update -
Installed the bypass pack from Ian ' remote keys' ( absolute Top bloke ! Has a huge amount of knowledge and very helpfully! ) but unfortunately nothing - ruled out the ignition , the immobiliser etc is been bypassed - so flashes when off once the key turns red light turns off so definitely working in that respect - all i get is a click - im lost with it checked all the fuses one was blown second one down yellow 20 far right row under the steering wheel fuse set - replaced it and nothing ! im starting to sense it may be a stuck starter now or bad earth with the battery - truth is the negative doesn't tighten snug slightly loose will have to get a sleeve for it as it does bolt on strong.......running out of ideas - may need to take it to a garage at this rate - any recommendation for Sussex area ? once again many thanks for your replies and inputs - its really great to have all this support on here ! thanks greg |
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1st Aug 2024 9:04pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8013  
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Check earth strap to chassis bolts for neg off battery and use a screw to get tight battery fit. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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1st Aug 2024 9:15pm |
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13
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is it easy to find where it is bolted on ? i briefly looked under the truck couldn't see it clearly - i assume no difference to others 130 hcpu ? when you mean crew as in literally as screw from the top to give it that extra tightness - hmm didn't think of that one - was going to purchase these battery shims off amazon for a £5
thanks for your help ! greg |
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1st Aug 2024 10:02pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8013
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The battery earth goes through the side of battery box to immediate earth point on chassis then continues to t box.
Check the middle-earth. Best to remove bolt there file/grind mating surfaces and refit with new bolt. If cable looks damaged or deteriorating then replace. I replaced mine with cable terminal to chassis and terminal to t box. Can also fit different clamping style battery terminal at same time. As interim screw a tec/woodscrew into gap to hold existing clp secure. Mindful of damaging the post. As I found when out and about the sun visor screws work perfectly! Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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2nd Aug 2024 5:43am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8013
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Earth strap is same on 130. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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2nd Aug 2024 5:43am |
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| greg1977 Member Since: 28 Jul 2024 Location: Brighton Posts: 13
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Thanks for that ! Screw secured the negative well and cleaned / retightened earth screws so I can exclude those now , so it’s got to be the either the starter relay which I can’t find which it is as only diagram I can find on here is the 2.4 puma mine is the 2.2 and it’s totally different -
The starts solenoid- as the starter was perfect before my battery died ! Thanks again all! Need a decent garage I think - not sure changing the solenoid or and starter is an easy job ?! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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2nd Aug 2024 10:36am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414  
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As for changing the starter, it is defenetly a pain. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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2nd Aug 2024 12:11pm |
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