 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Future proofing a puma |
 
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1717  
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My 110 dormobile is now on 150k mikes with some big trips planned m looking at some future proofing upgrades. I know you can always get caught out but it’s nice to try everything you can to prevent!
I should say it’s always waxoyld and serviced and maintained to a high standard, so far I’ve though and ordered; Loff clutch and output shaft, New injectors. Thinking silicone hoses? Anything else you guys had fail around that time or think could be worth doing extra to usual servicing and maintenance ? None of this is for massive off road expeditions, just driving good distances away from home adventuring.  Click image to enlarge Cheers Tom Defender puma dormobile camper |
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21st Jul 2024 10:58am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2400  
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If it is a 2.4, then carry a Genuine VCV.
Dedicated diagnostic tool. Light switch or fit a relay. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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21st Jul 2024 2:27pm |
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1717
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Good suggestions guys thank you 🙏 Defender puma dormobile camper
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21st Jul 2024 2:38pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666  
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Fuel return o-rings/connectors on the injectors. Maybe even new washers on the injectors too.
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21st Jul 2024 3:32pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 893 
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Another idea would be to replace the rear half-shafts with one-piece units. LOF sell these. Charlie
1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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23rd Jul 2024 7:39am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3381  
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Front diffs are known to grenade on heavy Puma 110s. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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23rd Jul 2024 10:21am |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3222 
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If you haven’t already I would consider fitting a catch can. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm. |
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23rd Jul 2024 10:54am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17276 
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This. If you have a two-gear diff in a Puma (which you probably do) it will fail, the only question is when. |
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23rd Jul 2024 1:51pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3638 
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some recommend changing the cam chain and associated parts at about 150k DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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24th Jul 2024 6:13am |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2198
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BW: what’s the symptoms and what’s your recommended replacement parts? I’m at 150k, just replaced the clutch and still got shocking bang and clunks from front drive. |
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24th Jul 2024 2:28pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17276
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Well, shocking bang and clunks from front drive, for one. When mine failed the diff locked solid so it was the same effect as having a locked front locker, which is bad for steering. Since I was close to home and the roads were very wet I was able to drive home carefully. I have heard of others where the pinion and crownwheel have locked, locking the front axle solid, which is even worse. If you suspect that your front diff is beginning to break up then firstly drain the oil and check for fragments, and secondly remove the filler plug and (with a torch) inspect as much as you can see through the hole. If you have a two-gear diff it should be possible by rotating the diff to see if the cross-pin is broken or misplaced. The usual failure mode for these diffs is that the cross-pin starts to rotate, elongates the hole in the diff carrier in which it sits allowing the differential gears to move around, and eventually the whole shebang fails, usually breaking the cross-pin and ejecting gears and teeth into other moving parts which then stop moving. If the diff has failed but not locked you can also often feel clunking, roughness, and other alarming sensations if you rotate the propshaft with the front wheels raised. |
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24th Jul 2024 5:18pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2198
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Thanks BW for your detailed and excellent explanation
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29th Jul 2024 9:20pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7939  
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I future proofed my 2.4 drive train with ashcroft locker front and rear, ashcroft shafts and drive members along with ashcroft cvs front. Went with a low pinion hypoid rear diff from ashcroft for best strength. That's all on a heavily loaded 130.
Swivels may need looking at along with bushes and a frame ball joint disc thickness would be worth checking and possibly stainless pistons for calipers if in there replacing parts anyway Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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30th Jul 2024 5:17pm |
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