 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Front/Rear wheel bearing nut conversion |
 
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2401   
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I did so on my 2007 long time ago and no issues. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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20th Jun 2024 12:00pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5641 
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Yes. Not a problem and have done all of mine.
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20th Jun 2024 12:28pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17310  
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Similarly I've done all four of.mine, great improvement.
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20th Jun 2024 5:48pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5641
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Just be aware, there are nuts, and then there are nuts.
The LR parts are v costly, but some of the alternative are cheap, and very nasty. Find a decent supplier |
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20th Jun 2024 8:30pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 729  
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Pardon my ignorance, but what is the advantage of this? If it'll improve things, what do I need to do and what parts needed?
I'm planning to finally replace my heavily dimpled front diff cover and swivel seals. I was also planning to buy wheel bearing kits just in case the current ones need replacement as the axle is coming off anyways so I after reading this, I might give it ago when putting everything together. Did I miss any consumables that need to be renewed? |
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21st Jun 2024 5:32am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1005  
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Yeah I don't know really. I have rebuild several Series 3 axles and was used to the double nut with locking tap. Never had any issues doing that.
Then I opened my 2003 front axle to fix a noisy bearing, it had the double nut and I did not think anything about it, only to find the original single nut and sleeve setup on the other size. Had to look it up to find this is how it should be. Clearly one side had been changed to the double nut setup, but ironically this is where the bearings were crap. Possibly cheap bearings were fitted, or maybe they were adjust too tight. I suppose the benefit is that the double nut setup is more adjustable (if you know what you are doing) and also there is less consumables as you only change the lock washer, not the whole nut like on the single nut setup, that is unless you use a chisel to remove the nut.... With all new bearings the single nut setup is care free as you just torque the nut, stake and that's it. |
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21st Jun 2024 6:20am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5641
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With the newer setup you need to tighten the stake nut to a fairly high torque, which isn’t ideal roadside/or trackside. The nut needs to be replaced, and I find that when the nut has the stake removed it can damage the threads as it is undone across the treads
Really the stake nut setup should be assembled and checked whist dry using a DTI to make sure you have the correct colour spacer. Before greasing, then reassembling, and staking. The old two nut is just simple and old fashioned, can be done anywhere with basic tools, not damaging anything. |
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21st Jun 2024 6:52am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2142 
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The main benefit is you can adjust your bearings as and when the wear. So the last a lot longer.
As above also easy to change and adjust with basic tools. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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21st Jun 2024 7:18am |
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| shaynecm Member Since: 10 May 2024 Location: Norwich Posts: 63
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i think you need to still setup with DTI for ABS to work 100% but twin nuts are a easier solution.
Triple 4 enginering do a fill kit thats really good and uses the correct geniune/OEM 10.9 bolts and bits that other kits dont have. |
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21st Jun 2024 7:36am |
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| John P Member Since: 26 Dec 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 311 
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This is the kit I bought https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/conversion-la...-3021.html
The reason I’m changing is for remote travel. It’s the correct spacer that is the issue and I don’t fancy carrying a bunch just in case. |
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21st Jun 2024 7:49am |
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| shaynecm Member Since: 10 May 2024 Location: Norwich Posts: 63
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try this as its OEM not aftermarket
https://www.triple4engineering.co.uk/Land-...ent-Spec-1 |
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21st Jun 2024 8:14am |
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| PoormansXS Member Since: 21 Oct 2023 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 49 
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If you’re doing bearings at the same time the OEM kit from LR parts is about £40 and comes with both nut options. (Just done the rears on mine) someone had converted mine to 2 nut in the past.
Hopefully someone can come along here and confirm this but I believe with the spacer system the bearings are at a slight preload. In my head should eliminate the possibility inner races spinning on the stub axle? If that is the case then in my opinion the spacer system is better. 2 nut system is good too but there’s a few figures floating around for torque settings on the adjuster nut. 50nm a spin to seat everything then back off and tighten to 4NM or 10NM depending on the manual you have. Because the inner races aren’t locked to the sub axle between the spacer if the adjuster nut isn’t set correctly the bearings could spin on the stub axle. Which is obviously less than ideal. Final point for me is how many times can you safely adjust the 2 nut system? It’s not an exact science. With the spacer and stake nut you feel play and replace the bearing it’s as simple as that. Of course you can remove the hub clean up the bearings and inspect them until you feel they need replacing, seems like a lot of work to prolong the life of a cheap part to me Just my thoughts, if I’d found the spacer on mine I’d have left it alone unless I had to replace a hub. Then it gets expensive and time consuming buying the spacers etc |
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21st Jun 2024 11:30am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 207  
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For adjusting, regreasing, changing wheel bearings in the field then the 2 nut system is far superior. I swapped mine over a few years ago and wouldn't go back to the single stake nut. As has been said there is a real risk of damaging the stub axle threads when you remove the nut. If replacing the bearings you would need to have a DTI on hand and a full set of different sized spacers and a new stake nut (even if just regreasing).
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21st Jun 2024 11:46am |
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| PoormansXS Member Since: 21 Oct 2023 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 49
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I think the idea with the spacer system is that you replace the bearings when they have play. Not fit another spacer to prolong them.
There shouldn’t be a need to change the spacer if you’re only replacing bearings (as long as you buy quality bearings) the spacer would be dictated by the distance between outer races on the hub which does not change unless you change the hub |
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21st Jun 2024 11:51am |
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