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bunnyman



Member Since: 29 May 2013
Location: herts
Posts: 119

England 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green
HELP !!!! immobiliser issue
HI ALL ,
I have a defender tdci 09 (90) , it was towed to garage and I was told starter motor was probably the problem .
Garage are looking into it said they have got starter motor turning but it won’t start think it might be immobilizer.
I have been told there is a possibly of replacing the security imobolizer on tdci if gone down might have to be changed to the upgraded security which is on the 2.2 jaguar tdci engines as the company that makes the old system has closed and carnt get parts .
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thank you in advance
Post #1032646 24th Apr 2024 9:25am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1974

United Kingdom 
So from what you have written your engine cranks ( starter turns) but does not start. You have a 2009 90 Puma. Your garage suspects the vehicle alarm system is immobilising the engine.

1.your alarm unit will be a Lucas 10AS. A Green unit visible if you remove the drivers footwell speaker and look up through the aperture.

2. On your 2.4 the communications wire from that 10AS goes to the instrument cluster , through the instrument cluster and then on to the engine ECU.

3. The key fob on your key ring interacts with a transponder coil around the top of the ignition barrel , this energises the fob after you switch on the ignition, and gets the 10AS to send the de-immobilisation code to the engine ECU.

So if you suspect the vehicle is immobilised.

1.Check the 3 fuses that serve the 10AS.

If ok.

2. Change fob battery ( cr2032), resync fob ( with doors closed press fob lock button 4/5 times quickly then the fob unlock button once. Doors locks should open to indicate sync has worked

If vehicle will still not start

3.Remove the instrument cluster and disconnect the connector going to it. With a piece of wire bridge pins 3 and 4. With the instrument cluster still disconnected attempt to start vehicle. If it starts the issue is in the instrument cluster and Martin, site owner , can fix that via his busines, or you can remove pins 3 and 4 from the connector and join them together, then refit connector and cluster.

If vehicle will still not start and 10AS is still the suspect.

4. Remove 10AS and send to technozen for test / repair. https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/la...-services/

Of course it may not be the vehicle immobiliser, it could be the the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor but I’m assuming your garage has ruled them out.
Post #1032664 24th Apr 2024 12:37pm
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bunnyman



Member Since: 29 May 2013
Location: herts
Posts: 119

England 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green
Wow thank you for such a detailed response Ianh ,haven’t heard back from garage will keep you posted
Post #1032779 25th Apr 2024 8:28am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 803

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
If it is definitely the immobiliser and you want a permanent solution. I stumbled across this service when browsing.

https://www.empiretuning.co.uk/product/def...r-removal/ 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #1032794 25th Apr 2024 11:24am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1974

United Kingdom 
If the 10AS is faulty you can do several things.

1.Get it repaired by the likes of technozen.

2.Buy a used working one off an auction site / breakers ( need correct version, some have central locking , some don’t, but the latter can be upgraded to support central locking for £45.) then program with diagnostics tool, I.e Nanocom.

3.Buy an alternative one from remotekey

4. Buy a new ALM DHxxxxx unit (10AS replacement) from a Land Rover dealer and have them install it. This is a very expensive option.

4. Decide to have immobiliser mapped out of the ECU by Bell auto services or empire tuning etc. And then replace with an aftermarket immobiliser or immobiliser/ alarm or immobiliser/ alarm / central locking.

If you want to keep things simple and low cost, and it is deemed that the 10AS is faulty, then a repair would seem the easiest option.
Post #1032795 25th Apr 2024 11:47am
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361

When you get your hands on a Nanocom, disable Arm on lock, Plip immobilize and Key mobilize. You will have a simple central locking controller now. Should start.
Post #1032804 25th Apr 2024 1:17pm
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Otis90



Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
I have had a similar issue, indie has said it is the 'no longer available' module and not wanting to fit the entire replacement system.....got a quote from Landrover Norwich £2046!.
Had chats with Clifford installers and Ghost and all happy to fit but not until the existing hard wired is by passed. Defender owner since 2007
2003 90 td5 'Otis'
2010 110 puma 'Rocky'
Post #1036479 4th Jun 2024 2:11pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1974

United Kingdom 
is yours a green 10AS unit or a black ALM CHxxxx or DHxxxx unit ? . If green 10AS contact Technozen to see if it can be repaired.

If An ALM CHxxxx unit contact remotekey regarding possible repair. If can’t be repaired or ALM DHxxxxx unit talk with remotekey or IRB regarding a replacement at circa £400- £500

Edit. Adding links to companies

Technozen https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/la...-services/

Remotekey https://www.remotekey.co.uk/shop/land-rove...trol-ecus/

IRB developments via their integrated316 site , noting IRB are a site sponsor and member Porny on here. https://www.integrated316.com/store/p/defe...ent-module


Last edited by Ianh on 4th Jun 2024 4:39pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #1036494 4th Jun 2024 4:06pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2409

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
As well, https://www.m1n1.de/en/bypass-land-rover-l...mobilizer/ Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #1036495 4th Jun 2024 4:15pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1974

United Kingdom 
Otis90, which of your vehicles is having the issue, the 2003 90 td5 'Otis' , or the 2010 110 puma 'Rocky' ?

Both are most likely to have the green 10AS unit unless it was changed out at some later point. If it’s the Puma 2.4 has the indi done the Instrument cluster bypass test as I’ve highlighted above ? Have they attempted a resync between 10AS and engine ECU ?
Post #1036499 4th Jun 2024 5:24pm
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Otis90



Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Hi there, its the Puma that is the problem. it is the green module though. They haven't done the cluster check and seem reluctant on both sides to do more. The issue originally was made worse on cold days in winter so they advised we do the pre warming coils which did cure my air intake leak as a bonus as they replaced all the seals to get to the coils but obviously had no impact on the not starting, they then re programmed 2 new fobs and coded which worked for a month then it started to play up so I am about £1200 down and counting. I have reached out to your suggestions on who can help look and test the module. That seems the best option left. Defender owner since 2007
2003 90 td5 'Otis'
2010 110 puma 'Rocky'
Post #1036501 4th Jun 2024 5:41pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1974

United Kingdom 
I think ruling out the instrument cluster is the next step, it’s not hard to do, you can do it yourself. It’s just a couple of screws to remove the cluster, then detach the single loom connector from the cluster, then on that loom connector use a paper clip or similar piece of wire to connect pin 3 to pin 4, these pins have a light green with silver stripe wire to both of them. With the cluster disconnected then see if the engine will start. If it does it’s the cluster issue, if not it rules the cluster out so you can then get the 10AS tested / repaired by technozen.
Post #1036573 5th Jun 2024 1:56pm
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Otis90



Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 14

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Thanks for the detailed steps, picked it up this afternoon from the indie he is convinced its the ariel side of the module and needs extending, but since the fobs work fine not sure why it could be that in relation to the key not being recognised. They hadnt done the cluster test. Defender owner since 2007
2003 90 td5 'Otis'
2010 110 puma 'Rocky'
Post #1036586 5th Jun 2024 4:13pm
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Porny
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Member Since: 31 Aug 2009
Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands
Posts: 806

 
I can sort this very easily if you sent me the engine ECU... one of the most common things I do on a Puma.... IRB
The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers.

www.IRBdevelopments.com

www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments

www.integrated316.com

www.facebook.com/integrated316
Post #1036593 5th Jun 2024 5:16pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1974

United Kingdom 
Otis90 wrote:
Thanks for the detailed steps, picked it up this afternoon from the indie he is convinced its the ariel side of the module and needs extending, but since the fobs work fine not sure why it could be that in relation to the key not being recognised. They hadnt done the cluster test.


When your indi state aerial, like you I’m assuming they mean the 10AS antenna ( Orange with grey wire) used to pick up the radio signal from the key fobs for central locking / unlocking / alarm arm / disarm. So as you state if the fobs work ok for central locking and alarm it’s not that antenna.

For the immobiliser it’s as I stated in my first post point 3. The key fob on your key ring interacts with a transponder coil around the top of the ignition barrel, this coil is connected to the 10AS and energises the fob after you switch on the ignition, and gets the 10AS to send the de-immobilisation code to the engine ECU. Noting the fob needs to be in reasonably close proximity to the ignition switch, I.e ideally on the same keying as the ignition key.
Post #1036665 6th Jun 2024 11:57am
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