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sasdiscos

Member Since: 22 Jul 2023
Location: UK
Posts: 151

A note about oil filters

So. I removed the sump on my 4.0 v8 to do a bottom end inspection, full sump clean and reassemble.

I put in thicker oil as recommended and fitted a fram oil filter.

However, on start up from then on it took a few seconds to build oil pressure.

Hmm, I thought that maybe the thicker oil was bad advice and so changed back to the lr recommended and put on a new Bosch oil filter.

No, still the same. Nothing else changed.

Ran for a few trips with it taking a few seconds to extinguish the oil light and tapping from top end when cold.

Did some reading and it turns out that there are a lot of dodgy maybe fake oil filers out there.

Ordered a genuine Mahle filter and fitted. Oil pressure light goes out instantly on start up.

Apparently it’s fake oil filters having poor non return valves in them.

Turns out that there is fakes on every level these days. And I thought I was buying good when buying Bosch.

Just hope it’s not done any damage to the top end.

Steve.

4th May 2024 6:38pm

Jimbob292

Member Since: 06 Nov 2023
Location: Derby
Posts: 19

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 DCPU Zambezi Silver

Yes, its a big issue, i only use ERR3340, on my 3.9EFI.

Stripped a few down and even seen the cartridge squashed, creating more of a restriction. Dam Chinesium filters!

Best mod i ever did was the stiffer spring in the oil pump, (serpentine engine) it pushes up the pressure to the rear end of the block, helps the tappets & cam from wearing out prematurly. Ray & V8 Developments helped me out heaps.

I use 20/50W VR1 Valvoline, expensive, but it has all the right additives for flat tappet engines.

6th May 2024 5:10pm

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