 | Home > General & Technical (L663) > Washing/Detailing |
 
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| chpsk8 Member Since: 26 Sep 2023 Location: Midwest Posts: 44  
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What color is your Defender? Some colors look flatter/less glossy than others. Mine is black and looks almost liquid after I wash it. I did ceramic coat it on day 2 of ownership and I'm sure that helps.
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21st Apr 2024 6:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20430 
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I don’t use snow foam, I wet it down, hand wash literally by hand nothing else under constant small amount of running water which is the time consuming part.
That way the running water and using the hand takes off the dirt without any scratches at all or rubbing anything all over it. It is time consuming, polish very rarely, otherwise you take away the clear coat over time. Then when I know it’s clean, hand wash with a combined wash and wax with a sponge. Rinse off. The time consuming part is cleaning off the dirt by hand, that’s just what I do, I’d never take a sponge or mitt just to dirty paintwork and off. When you use your hand you know then that there will not be anything that can be collected to scratch. Never wear watches or anything like that doing it either. I normally rinse out underneath beforehand, again using hose water pressure I don’t use a pressure washer at all. I tend to do it in stages over a few days, depends how much time you want to put in. I do the underneath one day, clean it all off the next, wash it the day after and that’s a it really. Main products I use is just wash and wax and interior detailer, once in a blue moon allow when cleaner but that’s about it really. Show glaze can be good, but that’s if you wan to go the extra mile and adds more work. On my 90 that’s Stornaway Grey I have gone back to Meguiars yellow carnuba Wash and wax, I like the finish the most looks great and lasts well. Tried the hybrid stuff, not keen on it. Wash and wax in one product is fast and works more regular for me. Everyone has their own methods and likes and dislikes, and different brands etc. Personally I don’t use a pressure washer because the pressure is too high, can damage and affect lighting with moisture ingress. I don’t use snow foam as it can damage decals, rubber and other bits and pieces like TFR. I wouldn’t use it again. I don’t use tyre gels or anything to make the tyres slick, I think it harms the rubber long term. Pity as it looks nice, but I think it affects the rubber and its longevity. Clay bar kit can be good, but used very rarely indeed. And very carefully, again it is extremely time consuming and no room for errors. If you have a 110 or larger, then I sympathise as you’ll have even more to do especially if it is a SW or HT. Personally I do it for paint protection rather than to look good, but to complete both is nice. I think some people do too much to it, I think you can do that as well. I think the key is, to take off the dirty material most carefully is most important. Once that is off then you are on the way then. As I said, I thin everyone has their own methods, I wince when people just take a spine to a dirty car and rub it off with it kind of thing. I prefer Meguiars, Autoglym is pretty good too. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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21st Apr 2024 7:37pm |
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| Soup Dragon Member Since: 22 Sep 2023 Location: Cheshire Posts: 86 
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I’m also a big fan of Meguiar's Ultimate Car Wash & Wax - tried different products but keep coming back to this. Might be worth a try. My Defender is treated with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra - really makes the Tasman Blue pop.
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21st Apr 2024 9:08pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20430
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Gtechniq is good for glass I’ve heard, but I’ve never tried it.
I use rain x spray on glass, and rain x pre mixed washer fluid. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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21st Apr 2024 9:17pm |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: UK Posts: 1397 
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 You're washing it! Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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21st Apr 2024 11:06pm |
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| LR Nuts Member Since: 10 Aug 2022 Location: UK Posts: 1140
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many people above bought the wrong vehicle ........it's a Land Rover, if it is NOT muddy ...... then you ae not using it properly !!!
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21st Apr 2024 11:09pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677 
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I spray on a protector wax with the foam lance after I’ve washed it. Makes it shiney, but also stops the dirt sticking for a while after, therefore prolonging the need for the next wash!
This stuff: https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/products/koch...gL4-_D_BwE |
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22nd Apr 2024 5:18am |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2826
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After washing the Defender l use a spray on product called Demon Shine.
You just spray it on and wipe off with a damp cloth. After that the vehicle looks great, also the wax coating repels water and dirt. lt's really easy to use. l've used various sprays and products over the years but this one has been the best by far. l am sure there are similar products available. This one only lasts until the next time you wash the vehicle. |
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22nd Apr 2024 8:01am |
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| Badeagle Member Since: 27 Aug 2022 Location: London Posts: 54 
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I snow foam, leave to soak for 5 minutes, then jet wash off.
Next I wash using a sheep fleece mitt and rinse using hosepipe. Then I dry with a hot filtered air dryer. Finally apply wax with sponge wipe off with damp microfibre cloth then buff with a dry one. Use all Turtle Wax products. Slick and Slide Pure wash, Graphene infused Flex Wax. Super shiny and slippery. My Car is Silicon silver. MY23 XS 110 D250 2003 Jeep Cherokee Limited |
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22nd Apr 2024 8:08pm |
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| Moo Member Since: 01 Oct 2021 Location: UK Posts: 1397
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This is getting scary!
I take mine into the dealer for a service and it gets washed and thats annually! Having said that, I was recently at my mother's for the weekend. Arrived late at night, parked on the drive only to be met the next morning with disappointment and horror by my mother with regards to how dirty my car was. Emergency call to her valeter and within an hour my car is getting a full days cleaning detailing! 
Anyway, that'll see it right until its next service or I find a car wash thats not busy.  Eiger Grey MY23 D250 SE with bits. Known as Noddy. |
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22nd Apr 2024 11:15pm |
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| zilch Member Since: 11 Sep 2019 Location: Whitsundays & Sydney Posts: 820 
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Two ways depending on the scenario..
When at home in the burbs, once every 2-3 weeks Wet the vehicle Use Bowdens nano car wash.. apply using a mit to give it a good clean Thorough rinse Dry with a detailers towel Every 3-4 months apply xpel ceramic booster to the PPF When on off-road/tours, then very 4-5 weeks or at the end of a trip Rock up at a local self serve car wash centre, use all the cycles on the wash to blast the red dust out Rinse and quick dry with a towel.. I never use an auto wash, just those where you do it yourself using the lance.. yet another pommie bar steward down under MY20 110 P400 SE Defender MY10 3.0 RR Sport |
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23rd Apr 2024 12:29am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20430
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Turtle wax has came up in the world I think.
One thing as I mentioned is a pain, is that you’ve got to be careful as to what you do use or some products can do more harm than good. The UV level with last summers heat wasn’t good for clear coat. I wash it about 2 or 3 times a year, stick to what I know is good mainly for paint protection than to look good. Don’t forget prop greasing and hinges etc too. 
A Defender owners work is never done. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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23rd Apr 2024 10:04am |
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| milesg7 Member Since: 13 Sep 2023 Location: Cheltenham Posts: 67
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If your paint is flat, try a clay bar / mitt carefully over the bodywork when the car is covered in thick suds, or with clay bar lube. You tube will show you how.
Then use a decent polish (I use Poorboys Black hole on my Carpathain), leave on until next wash, then either use a thick Wax (again, Poorboys Black Natty is good) then a sealant. I had mine ceramic coated last year (myself) using Armor Sheil IX which is easy and works well. I top up every 12 months, but use Poorboys black hole and Black Natty Wax over it and it is awesome. Glass has GTechniq shield G4 Interior has GTechniq protector on it Tyres have Topaz Wheel black, matt and really deep black. I take mine off road shooting regularly and it gets coated, but the above helps it get clean quicker and easier. Protects the paintwork etc.  Click image to enlarge |
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23rd Apr 2024 12:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20430
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Clay bar does work, one of those rare jobs though and one to be careful when doing.
Especially useful on horizontal paintwork such as roof and bonnet where detritus collects and adheres to the paint surface more. Especially tree pollen or tree sap, I’m pretty sure it’s tree pollen that can accumulate into a black dust like cluster over time, usually on the bonnet on mine and added to that the warmth of the engine heats it up and helps bond contaminants on. To be honest I think LR did quite well for paint. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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23rd Apr 2024 2:37pm |
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