130dreamer wrote:

I have a TD5 main wiring loom which has already been partially butchered.
If you let me know which colours/size you need and the lengths required I can send you them for the cost of postage.
Can't promise I have everything you need but maybe of some help?

That's a very kind offer and much appreciated, even if you don't have what i need. Here goes (i hope i have read the wiring diagrams correctly):

Clock - Red / Orange (R/O) illumination (common to most / all of the gauges and switches i think)
Clock - Purple / Brown (P/N)

Rev Counter - White / Slate (from ECU pin 19 - is present in the connector behind the binnacle / gauge panel) and R/O illumination

Heated Seats (appreciate this might be a long shot) - Blue / Slate (U/S), Light Green / White (Lg/W) and of course R/O for illumination

I already have standard wiring in red and black and a few random others.

I am a newbie, so i don't have much to offer in return yet, but if you are after something random, ask away - odd dash screws, switch blanks, aftermarket electric window switches, spare washer pump, rear / safari door lock body (non central locking and barrel removed) kind of thing. Perhaps i should put them on the for sale section at little to no cost

Martin wrote:

I've found ALM Solutions have the widest range of sizes and colours, but they don't do everything as LR used some strange combinations.

Thanks Martin, I'll have a look - could be good to know for now or in the future.

p.s. you kindly replied to me about rear wash wiring and i thought i'd found the plug for it (despite not having rear wash / wipe originally) - you identified it as part of the alarm sounder, did you have any thoughts why my alarm still sounds (i think normally) even though that cable was not connected to anything? My alarm is a single tone, continuous horn - is that normal? (Apologies for adding this here, perhaps would have been better on the original post, but i didn't want to hassle you, but now i have you !!!

110Matty wrote:

... Here goes (i hope i have read the wiring diagrams correctly):

Clock - Red / Orange (R/O) illumination (common to most / all of the gauges and switches i think)
Clock - Purple / Brown (P/N)

Rev Counter - White / Slate (from ECU pin 19 - is present in the connector behind the binnacle / gauge panel) and R/O illumination

Heated Seats (appreciate this might be a long shot) - Blue / Slate (U/S), Light Green / White (Lg/W) and of course R/O for illumination

"The Haynes book of lies"

110Matty wrote:

... Both show Lg/W

You're correct - the 'factory' feed is in LG/W

I said W/G - as that's the colour I use in my heated seat wiring kits, which take the wiring for the heated seat switches (W/G, R/O, B) from the hazard warning light switch or cigarette lighter circuits, depending on vehicle age.

My kit uses relays to switch the seats, so the dash switches are only switching relay coils.

BTW - I have Light Green/White - but, only in 1.0mm²

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

PaulMc wrote:

"The Haynes book of lies"

110Matty wrote:

... Both show Lg/W

You're correct - the 'factory' feed is in LG/W

I said W/G - as that's the colour I use in my heated seat wiring kits, which take the wiring for the heated seat switches (W/G, R/O, B) from the hazard warning light switch or cigarette lighter circuits, depending on vehicle age.

My kit uses relays to switch the seats, so the dash switches are only switching relay coils.

BTW - I have Light Green/White - but, only in 1.0mm²

I’m using relays too. I have Mazda bucket seats (fitted by PO, very comfortable to be fair) and not 100% sure of current draw, suspect it’s between 5 and 10 amps each, but I’m guessing really. I know Land Rover went direct from switch but I’m going relays.

.