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Mining Subsidence Stu

Member Since: 06 Mar 2024
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 15

1991 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Caledonian Blue

200TDi Starting oddities.

Chaps. I've had a 300 for ages and the 200 is a bit of a novelty. The problem with the internet is everyone chimes in and I may as well have the whole car replaced. I'd like anyone who is familiar with these symptoms to comment. It's probably the ignition switch, but I may be wrong.

I dropped £20k on a totally restored 200 (for work) and it's a beautiful thing. Galv everything. It's had a bit of a temperamental starter which is a little bit like my 300, but that was the magic box of doom.

I initially thought it was the starter solenoid. The relay goes click and the dash lights come on. Then I go to position 3, it either cranks absolutely fine, or it's totally dead. If I wait a bit and do it, it will randomly work. Perfectly, it's not like it's half a job, it starts fine. The engine is pretty new and is like a sewing machine.

The other day, we were out and I had to bump it and when I turned the key on, it went a tiny bit further, or wasn't quite right and then "went dead". It then worked fine.

I haven't used it for a few days and I went out and it cranked but wouldn't fire. I thought "what's going on here" So I bumped it down the road and it started and then it wouldn't rev and then stalled. Then I got it going again and then it did it again.

There's a bit of a weird delay thing where if you turn it to position 3 and it "isn't ready" it won't have it, (like my 300) but it will crank fine. There seems to now be a "waggle the key" and the dash lights are either on or not. It cranks ok, but it's almost like there is an intermittent problem with both the starting circuit and now the "dash lights on" (key on) position. Am I right in thinking the lack of running is down to the stop solenoid having a low voltage/cut to it. It cranks a treat when it does.

If I go out and get in it now. What I expect will happen is that it will crank but not start. If I run it down the road, it will start but not run at decent revs then it will stall.

I have done this so many times when you start replacing components and it's still fked.

This is not reliable enough to use, if I get it running.

The irony is that I bought a 200 because the fking thing doesn't have all of that electrical sht to go wrong.

Help. Stu

26th Mar 2024 1:15pm

Mining Subsidence Stu

Member Since: 06 Mar 2024
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 15

I've just been out and tried it again. If I turn it to II, the dash lights either come on perfectly, or they don't at all. Then what happens is if I move it slightly to position III, the lights go out or it goes CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK with the relays. I've waggled everything and now it will crank, but not start.

All of the other electrics are fine.

26th Mar 2024 1:25pm

Browny90

Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 183

2004 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Stornoway Grey

I have a 200 and I have rebuilt the entire vehicle, but also have been a mechanic for lots of years..

It sounds like you have a bad ignition switch regardless so probably best to start there.. I suppose you could test it by basically joining the wires together on the back (apart from the trigger wire for the starter) that would ensure you have a good connection of the ignition system.

similarly, you can ensure you have a god feed to the fuel stop solenoid by just running a wire directly from the batter tot he solenoid.

Don't discount that you may have more than one fault, which sometimes injects confusion when diagnosing..

Often when you get odd problems an earth connection can be responsible.

I would suggest start from the beginning, and work through logically with each system

Electrical
Check the battery voltage and charging if you can
Check the battery connections and the main wires between the battery, starter and alternator
Check the engine/ chassis earth strap (you can test this by fitting a jump lead between the engine and battery/ chassis)
As above fit a wire between the battery and the solenoid
As above, bypass the ignition switch or just replace it anyway if you have a wobbly key..

Fuel
Replace the filter and bleed the system from tank to pump then from pump to injectors
Check/ replace the fuel lift pump (very common to fail on these)
if you still think its a fuel issue then you need to get eyes in the tank, check the sender and blow the pipes through, check the hoses physically for damage or potential air leaks (they can have holes which draw in air but do not leak fuel.) worst case you can run a hose from a jerry can to the lift pump

Mechanical
Check the starter motor independently if you can, either remove it and check with jump leads and a trigger wire or do the same while on the vehicle.

I think if you run through these you'll find of stumble across the issue(s)

Hope thins helps.. Nothing on this list is particularly hard with basic tools.. a multi-meter will help you too if you have one..

Some things are worth replacing anyway as they will fail at some point and it costs more in time to check it that it does to replace, like the fuel filter and the fuel lift pump. My 1986 90 is currently on a full rebuild, with new chassis, Paint etc.. Very much a hybrid, TD5 Chassis, tub & bulkhead with a 200TDI and LT77 GB Painted in Stornoway Grey

2 years off the road, but getting close to completion now

26th Mar 2024 2:48pm

Mining Subsidence Stu

Member Since: 06 Mar 2024
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 15

In a twist of weird fate (funny fuel gauge). The thing was out of fuel. The test was I wired up the stop solenoid and it clicked and did the same thing.

I have it running now, but I'm going to do the ignition switch whilst I'm at it.

Cheers, Stu

26th Mar 2024 3:38pm

Browny90

Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 183

I thought my list was starting simple.. but yes, the stage before all of that would be to ensure you actually have fuel in the tank

Really glad you got to the bottom of it, no harm in doing some of the above anyway after running an empty tank, filter, lift pump and definitely do that ignition switch.. you can probably do that for under £50 My 1986 90 is currently on a full rebuild, with new chassis, Paint etc.. Very much a hybrid, TD5 Chassis, tub & bulkhead with a 200TDI and LT77 GB Painted in Stornoway Grey

2 years off the road, but getting close to completion now

27th Mar 2024 8:43am

Mining Subsidence Stu

Member Since: 06 Mar 2024
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 15

Oh, it was out of fuel, but in a sick twist of fate, something shat itself ignition wise. Cue me having to wire up the stop solenoid in the supermarket car park.

I got it started on the key and whilst I was driving along, the fuel gauge/petrol gauge etc were all dead. I gave the key a waggle and it came back on.

30th Mar 2024 12:16pm

Mining Subsidence Stu

Member Since: 06 Mar 2024
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 15

For those reading this. The new switch solved all the problems.

......and on the way home the power steering belt shat itself FFFS. Then when I took the lid off the reservoir to see the level, I dropped the cap and it went somewhere that I need ethiopian's arms to get back.

4th Apr 2024 8:38pm

L110CDL

Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10739

That is good news with the problem solved

Sorry to hear with the latter

1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.

4th Apr 2024 9:20pm

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