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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 320   
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Hi, you're going to need to do some basic continuity checks with a multi meter and work out which wires go where, which have power and which is an earth. As log as you have two wires running to each motor and you know which is up and which is down you can make a start on the OEM switches. If you have the switches you need two of these -
https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/white-6-way...nector-jlr And they are wired as follows -  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The RO wire is the illumination for the switch, take that from a neighbouring switch or if you're being really good take them from the header where all the other RO wires are connected., you can get the connectors here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161470778271?ep...XQBuNQ7Dfh In the most basic of terms the OE switch, when pressed, allows current to flow to the motor on one of the wires and creates a path to earth (via the switch) on the other wire. So - power to the switch, earth for the switch, a wire for up to the door, a wire for down to the door and a wire for the illumination. Last edited by Penfold_6290 on 28th Mar 2024 3:36pm. Edited 3 times in total |
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28th Mar 2024 3:25pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 320
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Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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28th Mar 2024 3:28pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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thank you @penfold_6290 - yes I have purchased those connectors and also the genuine dash switches. I was hoping to use the wiring already done by the previous owner (i.e. take the wires from the existing switch and put them in the correct order into the new white 6 pin ones mentioned and plug into new genuine dash switches). I guess I'll have to get my multimeter out to try and suss out the existing wires, or start again using LR original coloured wiring, following the diagrams kindly provided. If I knew the pin out of the existing switch, it would make things much easier, I just can't seem to find it.
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28th Mar 2024 3:37pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 320
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Hiya, i was editing and adding detail when your reply came in so maybe take another look at my reply. You could do this without taking the door off, with a meter check the back of the switch to see which wire is live when the window down command is given, which is live when the window up command is given. You can then relate the wire colour to the correct pin on the switch based on the wiring diagrams. No need to run new wires...wait until they eventually break in half in the rubber trunking between door and bulkhead (which they will) and do it then!
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28th Mar 2024 3:41pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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Hi, yeah it was weird, when I initially replied you hadn't mentioned the multimeter, which is why I said I'd have to get mine out. I've seen all of your post now, very helpful thank you. I'll report back with any progress
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28th Mar 2024 3:47pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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Click image to enlarge I found this also, for the pin outs on the OE switch / connector? Stupid question - i take it the illumination wire only goes to +12v when the light stalk is activated (i.e any lights switched on?) |
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28th Mar 2024 3:54pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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Cheers mate, which part of Dorset are you in? - i'm near Somerton / Yeovil. I'm looking for someone to look after the oily bits of my maintenance / repair and decent specialists in Somerset are few and far between it seems, either that or they have long waiting lists - good for them and current clients, less good for the likes of me.  |
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28th Mar 2024 3:58pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 320
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That's the same explanation as the LR electrical library, your fun challange is to work out which lift wire is which!
The illumination wire can go to a neighbouring switch if needs be. All the switches will have a red wire with an orange stripe, this is the illumination wire that is live when the side lights are on. All those red/orange wires meet at a header joint somewhere behind the radio, trace one back and see if you can find it. You could tap into the header joint, it is basically a plastic unit which accommodates many wires, one RO wire will supply 12v when the sidelights are on and then the header provides a common connection for all the guage and switch illumination on the truck |
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28th Mar 2024 3:59pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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Brilliant, thanks.
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28th Mar 2024 4:00pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 320
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Click image to enlarge |
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28th Mar 2024 4:30pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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Hello,
Just an update, I now have the windows working from the OE switches
However….. the PO that fitted the aftermarket switches cut the dash because they are slightly larger switch bodies than the OE ones. It means the OE ones now won’t click in the dash
I don’t really want to spend £150 on a replacement dash. Do you reckon I could modify a blank switch panel and fix it (glue/screw) over the cut hole so the OE switches fit? Is there another option? Click image to enlarge |
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29th Mar 2024 6:21pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 503 
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The switch plate you've pictured, is for the 'Lucas' switches down by your right knee, the electric windows switches won't fit into that.
The Freelander-1 had window switch escutcheons on their rear door window switches. FVN000010LNF and FVN000020LNF - in Ash Grey Click image to enlarge FVN000020PUY - in Black The MGF centre console facia FJM100640PMA has 2 x window switch cutouts - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FJM100640PMA Click image to enlarge It is the same Black as the Defender centre facia - 'PMA' Although the MGF windows switches are a different part number to the Defender switches, they use the same bodies and switch fronts - Click image to enlarge . Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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29th Mar 2024 6:42pm |
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| 110Matty Member Since: 20 Apr 2023 Location: Somerset Posts: 139
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Thanks Paul. I’m not sure these fill fit into the aperture in the dash? I have a discovery 2 switch panel (that I took the OE switches from) and I might be able to jigsaw out ‘an escutcheon’ that I could fix in. I’m a bit surprised there isn’t an escutcheon plate available that allows early TD5’s to add electric windows with OE switches (without having the later full dash upgrade). I’ve seen the carling switch ones and as you pointed out, the one for the Lucas switches I wrongly thought would be ideal.
Failing that I might cut a couple out of sheet metal, paint it and glue in. Would be 99% hidden by the switch. And failing that, pay a fortune for a replacement dash panel. 🤬 |
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29th Mar 2024 9:16pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 503
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Have a read through this thread -
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49880.html Further on in the thread, Andy has said that window switch surrounds are possible. Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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29th Mar 2024 9:31pm |
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