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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Not cranking after a blown fuse.. Immobilizer? (Sorted)

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Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

Not cranking after a blown fuse.. Immobilizer? (Sorted)

Hey guys, quick question for you.
I had some work to do on the front headliner light so I removed it. 2 non original cables were quite nastily plugged into it so I disconnected them. Turned out that the positive extra wire was "live" and of course shorted directly to the earth. Radio stopped straight away so a fuse was surely blown. I changed the F30 (audio/clock/diagnostic) and the car would crank but not start, no glow plug light and temp gauge to the red..After some research, I saw that sometimes the F8 (Alarm system) was going at the same time so I changed it even if it did not look blown). After that and some under the seats relay check, I thought I'd try again. Gauge temp acting normally, glow plugs finally showing again, I was finally seing some good stuff! Well, the car does not even crank anymore... The alarm/immobilizer light seems to work fine, blinks fast when I unlock the car, slows down then stop totally.

Could it still be that the car is immobilized?

I am planning on checking all extra wires when I take out the dash board and the complete head liner, but I'll need to be able to use the car before that 😅😅 Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

Last edited by Waka56 on 15th Mar 2024 9:03am. Edited 3 times in total

11th Mar 2024 11:54am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2031

I think yours is a 2008 2.4. Therefore have you checked fuse F6 (15A) and fuse F7 (20A) in the under seat fuse box.

See wiring diagram https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-diagram/...tem/active

11th Mar 2024 2:32pm

Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

It is a 2.4 LHD. I'm going back to the car, but I checked all the fuses and they were Okey.

Edit: I actually haven't seen a fuse F6 or F7 under the dash or under the seat. Where do I find those?

Click image to enlarge

Is it the ID 10 and 11?

Click image to enlarge

Also, it seems like the head liner light does not work anymore. Got 12v on the left side and 10.3v on right side (Closer to the interruptor). It makes no sense to me..

Seems like interior lamps are also connected to this F7. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

11th Mar 2024 3:42pm

Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

I changed the 10/11 (alarm fuse) just in case with no difference. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

11th Mar 2024 4:42pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20447

Have you synced the fob? No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

11th Mar 2024 5:07pm

Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

I am not sure what it means. I locked/unlocked a few times, I also locked it 4 times in a row.. I do not know more..

What would be the result of a key fob out of sync? Would the immobilizer/alarm red light still stop blinking after the drivers door closed? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

11th Mar 2024 5:08pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20447

You’d need to press the fob lock or unlock about 5 times rapidly right next to it with all doors shut.
The indicators / flashers will flash and the red dash LED will flash fast for about 30 seconds then it will slow to its normal rate.
After that, you can then just press unlock once and then start it and all should be good.
(In normal circumstances*).

If the red dash alarm light flashes at all, it means that the immobiliser is activated and it’ll either not start, it will start, then immediately cut out.
It self arms after a while, or may come on after drivers door has been open or then closed, for a while.
Which is why out of habit I often press unlock just once before I ever start it even if it’s already open, just means the immobiliser is disarmed before starting.

If ever the battery or power is disconnected, and then reconnected the fob needs to be synced afterwards.

I hope that helps, if after being synced and then the immobiliser disarmed after pressing unlock once and all the doors shut the alarm light still flashes then there might be an issue.
Best place maybe just to sit in the drivers seat to do this, rather than outside.

No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

11th Mar 2024 7:37pm

Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

But the red lights stops normally once I close the door and try to start. I´ll give it a try anyway I guess. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

11th Mar 2024 7:40pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20447

No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

11th Mar 2024 8:42pm

Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

I mean, that´s already what´s happening. Could it be something else that the immobilizer? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

11th Mar 2024 8:45pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2031

Is the starter motor turning at all ?

Ps. Did you find out what then non original wires going to the interior light were for ? I don’t suppose they have anything to do with the issue...but you never know.

12th Mar 2024 12:08am

Waka56

Member Since: 08 Nov 2023
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 162

No, starter motor use to run before I changed the F8 fuse. (Was not dead, more the fact that I unplugged it I guess)

And no for those 2 cables, I'd guess for the reverse camera that was there before. (I mean it's still there but the previous owner removed the screen). Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)

12th Mar 2024 6:44am

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1081

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

Following with interest as only yesterday a friend of mine called me because his 2.4 wont crank, just hearing the starter relay click.

Over the phone I think we assured it's not the immobiliser (From my understanding syncing the fob is not related to it but only required if it wont unlock. Fob batteries are fine (3x indicators when locking). Also if red LED is off it shouldn't be immobilised.)

Unlike you, Waka56, he didn't do anything other than loading the roof rack.

12th Mar 2024 7:17am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17446

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If you can hear the starter relay click (and it is 100% that it is the starter relay and not anything else, for example the main relay or the starter solenoid) then there is either an open circuit between the starter relay and the starter solenoid, or an open circuit between the battery and the starter motor, an open circuit in the earth connection to the motor, or a failed motor or starter relay.

If it was an immobiliser issue you would not hear the relay click.

12th Mar 2024 8:55am

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1081

Thanks blackwolf! Confirms what I've told him that it's not the immobiliser.
I could hear the "click" over the phone when he turned the key to "crank" from ignition after waiting for the glow plug lamp (telling me that 'most systems' were ok). Could you hear the solenoid when sitting inside? (I admit I don't know where it's located exactly - at the starter motor I assume).

12th Mar 2024 9:23am

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