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| mifa Member Since: 16 Dec 2022 Location: Denmark Posts: 9  
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I'm in the process of fitting a new radio to my 2007 Truckcab, and I removed the center console to do the mandatory replacement of lightbulbs, e.g. at the same time.
Unsurprisingly, Pandora's box of new problems came forward and needed attention when I was there 
One of them was the red wire soldered to purple/black wire /grey connector on the picture which is connected to the radio  Click image to enlarge . After searching and testing with a multimeter, I realized the previous owner had retrieved power for the interior light here for some reason. I want to convert it back to the original connection, but I can't figure out where to hook it up. I got the diagram all right for the interior light https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-diagram/...rior-lamps but can someone point me toward where to connect it, please? |
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9th Mar 2024 5:49pm |
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| mifa Member Since: 16 Dec 2022 Location: Denmark Posts: 9
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Thanks, for replying - this is a real pain!
It does - I replaced it last year with a LED for better light when fitting Lasalle Trim, but did not at the time think about the very thick red wire, I got yellow in both sides. Michael |
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9th Mar 2024 7:26pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382 
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For the, 10AS it’s: C0061R-1
For the permanent live it’s C0583R-6 This was why when I fitted some auxiliary LED lighting, I ensured that the factory system was in situ. And took my fused feeds from the interior light, which means all I’d have to do is take the interior light out and fit a new one or just disconnect it and it’s totally standard. It’s really bad practice to take taps off of existing wiring, and best avoided wherever possible. The door switches are ground switching. I am unsure where header K109 is located, though likely might not be any issue at all. I’d imagine someone did that with yours, perhaps due to door switch failures, fuse blown, or 10AS re movement or disablement. I assume yours has an alarm? You probably can get away with slipping adhesive heatshrink over the connector pin on the DIN ISO without removing it, but would need to clear the pin, but shrink down to the exterior dia of the wire so you’d need to check that out one of those jobs a little digital micrometer / vernier gauge is ideal for. I’d look at doing some resistance tests on each end of the wiring you have then you shall be able to tell which goes where. Some little test leads with mini croc clips on and some electrical connector pins may help to extend the multimeter leads if needed. Best to just do some resistance tests to see what goes where, not live as it’s safer, faster and easier and less likely to pop a fuse. I really don’t know why people chose to use the HU live to take a tap from, it’s not designed for it anyway, even for example for a powered DAB antenna there are other options and even a p;if and play add a tap ATO plug and play option for the fuse box where the 12v accessory socket ignition live can be used. Plug and play no factory wiring messed with. I always believe in leaving the LR factory wiring as it is wherever possible, and anything else being added separately side by side. That way you can always go back to factory fit, and anything additional create your own wiring schematic diagram to go back to if need be.. Unfortunately one persons fix, is another’s problem and some fixes are more problems than they started with. Good luck.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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9th Mar 2024 8:08pm |
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| mifa Member Since: 16 Dec 2022 Location: Denmark Posts: 9
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Thanks!
I will leave it and add adhesive heatshrink to it. I full agree in keeping the fingers from the wiring harness and not adding all kind of additional wires. To be fair its the only addition I have come across until now, and I been all over the truck. Michael |
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9th Mar 2024 8:33pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382
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That’s a good thing, so sounds like you’ve got a good one.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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9th Mar 2024 8:36pm |
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