custom90steve wrote:

Best way of checking the EA is with a helper, to Rev the engine (after up to temp after a run) and look for the proper correct throw of theEA movement, ensure the pivots are lubed also.

Regards, the clutch switch as mentioned already by pistonfields.
Only, you can do that with a 2 pole JPT connector and pins and just plug in to bridge it. With a small wire loop such as 2mm2 thinwall automotive cable.
You can’t however just disconnect it, it has to be bridged.
If you use the JPT connector you preserve the waterproofing and integrity of the standard loom, and can always be reversed, or replace the clutch switch itself as mentioned located on the clutch master cylinder.
It cuts torque slightly during gear changes, to cut down on transmission backlash or sudden shock loads on the trans, you can run with it bridged and then you are on driver input only so careful driving you’ll be fine, the clutch switch is fine also active just so long as it works correctly.
When it’s not working properly it can cause power cuts or surges, but a throttle assembly that’s not quite working as it should could also be a factor.

Regards testing the EA for the Turbo, the tuners would know best regarding those and the parameters applicable.
You can buy replacements, but is not a cheap item to just replace to see.

As it’s first gear, I’d tend to think it’s the EA as you have been looking at, MAP or MAF.
The clutch switch is worth checking for sure though, it seems the anti stall is working for you or it may need the Map looking at
Sometimes there is a flat spot pulling off in first, and that’s caused by the clutch switch cutting the torque, if you bridge it you can see an immediate change if any and if there isn’t any change it’s likely not to be that.
It should be a closed circuit, when the clutch pedal is pressed it momentarily opens the circuit, cutting torque by a percentage momentarily I believe something like 20% and then when the clutch pedal is brought back up the circuit is closed again and the torque increased.
It’s along those lines, when they fail the switch gets stuck open cutting torque, then sporadically comes back in causing a power surge and that’s linked with the fuelling system.
I think you get a little more MPG with it bridged, but my concern is it’s there to reduce drivetrain shocks.
I think it’s better without the clutch switch to drive, but when it’s working as it should I as mine now is it’s fine also. There is more power on tap with it bridged but I’m not so sure that’s so good for the clutch and drivetrain.
So I am open minded on that matter.

Does it do it more when cold or all the time? Sometimes perhaps the EA actuation gets weaker, tends to get a little sticky and when it should activate the turbo vanes has a momentary delay which it shouldn’t.
Old grease getting sticky maybe, I know when mine got stuck open once when hot cause limp mode but no MIL, it was simply that the EA pivots were dry as a bone and I think got hot and stuck.
Since I’ve periodically lubed them I’ve had no issue, I tend to do those the same kind of frequency as greasing the Prop UJs, only with the EA pivots with light oil instead.
LR do a particular type of high temp ceramic type grease for it, but if I remmebr it was something like £82 for 5ml.
Even then, I feel that it would likely get gummed up, the trouble is dust and detritus stick to the grease and gum it up, making it dry and higher viscosity over time making the EA work harder.

I’m not sure who makes then Electronic Actuators, the Turbos are Garret, but the EA a partner manufacturer. I have a feeling Hella springs to mind, possibly Denso, but more likely Hella.
Though generic new is still likely to be better than a failing old one.

There could be an error in the loaded map, but I doubt that is the case you never know.

Very detailed response thank you. I’m going to bridge the clutch switch & see what difference it makes can’t hurt to try. The connecting rod on the actuator was nice & free and as said the internal worm drive wasn’t damaged & looked in good condition.
The anti stall also works really well & we use it a lot on some of the more difficult mountain roads. Will report back when I’ve bridged the switch…thanks again

blackwolf wrote:

...on the TDCi Defenders the anti-stall essentially works in all gears both high and low and forward and reverse. The idle jack only works in 1st low and for this to happen the ECM has to be able to determine both that the t-box is in low range and that 1st gear is selected. The H/L switch on the LT230 indicates to the ECM whether high or low range is selected (and is used to select the appropriate TPS response map accordingly) however since there is no detection on the MT82 main gear selector gate it has to extrapolate that 1st gear is selected from the engine and road speeds.