Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Swivel Seals |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373 |
My swivel bearings, pins, balls, and seals are all original although there are few shims left in them, and my Defender has done 275k miles.
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19th Feb 2024 6:36pm |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414 |
If just replacing the swivel seals, why not just remove the complete swivel assy, old seal out, new seal in, assy back in and happy motoring? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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19th Feb 2024 6:37pm |
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Shafski Member Since: 19 Jun 2023 Location: Chilterns Posts: 110 |
There’s some big mileage numbers there!
My supplying dealer replaced a top pin bearing at 28K before I picked it up. I had to replace it again at 32K as they clearly fudged it, left me a knocking on full lock and a shaky wheel! I took the view, that if your going in.. replace all. First time in doing the job, took me a whopping 7 hours to strip all the way, replaced all bearing and seals, gaskets, cleaned all up, re-tapped threads etc. and rebuild. (Maybe I’m just slow or super OCD?) OEM kit with ABS is doable. I used Dingocroft to supply all the parts, not the cheapest, but they were super helpful, and not a Britpart bearing in sight.. Timken all the way Shafski _________________________________________ 2015 110 Montalcino Red Utility "Harriet" along with Puma on I.C.E |
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20th Feb 2024 6:11am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373 |
If you are doing the swivel pins, it is worth remembering that the slightly earlier design had twice the number of rollers in the bearings and is much stronger and more durable than the "value-engineered" later design. A retro-mod is well worth doing.
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20th Feb 2024 8:56am |
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HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 735 |
Please do share the part numbers we should be hunting for
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21st Feb 2024 2:13am |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 |
TD5 upper swivel is number 25 on this page https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...6_52607#25
TDCI upper swivel is number 4 on this page https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ng_44788#4 |
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21st Feb 2024 8:44am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373 |
Items 7 and 12 are stronger than 25, but you may be stuffed if you have ABS (which I don't ). |
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21st Feb 2024 9:50am |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 |
ABS = Absolute Bull Sheet
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21st Feb 2024 9:52am |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 |
Ahhhh you're saying going back to the TDI swivel pin rather than the TD5 one then... |
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21st Feb 2024 9:53am |
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Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2644 |
The 300Tdi pin you mean.
200Tdi and earlier used a proper railko bush which is stronger still! |
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21st Feb 2024 12:28pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373 |
Did the 200Tdi have a steering damper on the drag link, or did the Railko bushes provide all the damping as on Series vehicles?
The idea of fitting Railko bushes to a TDCi and ditching the damper is quite appealing. |
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21st Feb 2024 1:13pm |
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Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2644 |
Still got a damper on the 200Tdi.
You can change the swivel balls and housings to the railko type and still run the later hubs etc. so that would be a good option. It’s how my 90 is built up. |
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21st Feb 2024 2:12pm |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414 |
^^ + the benefit of having a drain plug in case you decide to fill with EP oil. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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21st Feb 2024 6:43pm |
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HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 735 |
Dang! I have ABS. |
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22nd Feb 2024 3:00am |
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