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Learningasigo



Member Since: 30 Nov 2023
Location: Midlands
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
HELP! No drive, no gears, grinding sound
2.2 110 Manual 2014

Broken down and towed by an another hero defender owner.

Pulling away from junction I heard a large knock as it pulled in gear, no drive and then followed by a grinding sound. Managed to clear the A1 as it happened 😳

Can’t seem to get the transfer into hi, low or lock, but can get into gear. Clutch seems to be working but anytime I release the peddle I hear a horrible grinding sound. It does seem to be coming from the transfer box.

May not be correlated but I have for the past few weeks heard a light grinding when going from 1st into 2nd when it is cold.

For what it is worth I have never used the transfer stick and it only came out of position in the trouble shooting stage.

Any advice welcome or point me to a good starter for ten.

Currently in Peterborough area so please let me know if any garages you would recommend.
Post #1022532 26th Jan 2024 8:53am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Sounds like the classic adaptor shaft that has worn.
Many threads on that topic. The good news is that there are good aftermarket solutions. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1022533 26th Jan 2024 8:57am
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Learningasigo



Member Since: 30 Nov 2023
Location: Midlands
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Thanks Will that stop it going into hi and low? And also the continuous grinding sound and no movement in gears
Post #1022535 26th Jan 2024 9:01am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1064

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
If you never used the hi-lo it can bind up. Even had that on the P38 I just bought which has an electric shift motor. Its not the internals that are the problem (plenty of lubrication) its the linkage outside the box.

The shaft that commonly fails connects the output of the gearbox to the input of the transfer box. It wears dt alignment issues and lack of lubrication. Possible the noise you heard earlier is it slipping a tooth and now it has just failed completely?

As was said do a search it is very well documented.


Last edited by TexasRover on 26th Jan 2024 10:11am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1022538 26th Jan 2024 10:07am
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Learningasigo



Member Since: 30 Nov 2023
Location: Midlands
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Thanks. I suspected as much and the garage said that would prob be the case. Never ever used it neither did the previous owner.

I wonder if it’s a good idea to exercise the diff weekly to stop it ceasing? Is it an easy fix?

Adapter shaft and output shaft - these are two different things? The Hanes book doesn’t help me work out this.
Post #1022539 26th Jan 2024 10:11am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1064

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Yes, freeing up and lubing the linkage then regular use. I occasionally slip it on low for maneuvering as it kinda easier. On the P38 its an automatic so you have to remember to brake twice as hard Smile
Post #1022540 26th Jan 2024 10:13am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1064

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I am not 100% familiar with the later MT82 6 speed gearbox, but I understand there is an intermediate shaft that connects the standard MT82 outputshaft to the LT320 tranfer case input. This is the shaft that wears.

Its kinda ironic they have this issue as earlier on (1980) they had the same issue connecting the LT77 (or Chrysler 3 speed auto) to the same transfercase, which was resolved, but had the exact same symptoms. I faced this issue myself for two cars and it looks like a bit of a stupid design mistake.

Anyhow too much info. The problem you likely have is well documented and can be fixed but it is a transfer case out solution, so will cost a bit of shoptime,
Post #1022541 26th Jan 2024 10:20am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
If it is the output shaft TUD500020/LR030054 combo which sounds likely it can be replaced with gearbox and transfer box in situ so not too bad a job.
Post #1022543 26th Jan 2024 11:35am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5711

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Probably too late but if you are stuck and need help give me a shout. I’m about an hour south of PBog so could drive up take a look, or get you to somewhere safe.
Post #1022545 26th Jan 2024 12:24pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17391

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It is most likely to be the usual output adaptor shaft failure, a very well-known and very common problem as all regulars on this forum will know (and discussed in many threads). It is however just possible that a gear in the transfer box has broken up, but that is a very rare failure so not likely. The hi/lo/difflock mechanism is renowned for seizing up if not used, so again the likely explanation is that that is a non-related issue.

If the adaptor shaft has failed it is well worth fitting one of the improved solutions such as the one from Ashcroft Transmissions (other solutions are now available).

Linds Hanson wrote:
If it is the output shaft TUD500020/LR030054 combo which sounds likely it can be replaced with gearbox and transfer box in situ so not too bad a job.


No it can't, the transfer box must come out.
Post #1022549 26th Jan 2024 1:11pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17391

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
landy andy wrote:
Probably too late but if you are stuck and need help give me a shout. I’m about an hour south of PBog so could drive up take a look, or get you to somewhere safe.


Good man! Thumbs Up

It is qualities like this among the forum members that sets this forum above all others. Bow down
Post #1022550 26th Jan 2024 1:12pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
Definitely is. Thumbs Up

Whilst it does sound like adaptor shaft as mentioned, the hi low mech does get completely dry and seized up.
I do use it when I can and diff lock every few months for that very reason, but when I took the linkage off mine last it was completely dry and no lube there until I greased it nicely.
The gearstick mechanism is often the same, they often never get lubed after factory assembly unless the owner goes out of their way to do so.
And it does make a lot of difference. Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1022574 26th Jan 2024 2:48pm
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Learningasigo



Member Since: 30 Nov 2023
Location: Midlands
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Thank you everyone. This forum really is the best. Honestly I was so amazed that within 2 mins of breaking down, and only just making it across the A1 😱, that two defender owners stopped (neither in a defender I may add!) and towed me to work.

Now with the garage and will update but assume it is the linkage. Plenty of forum posts and will look at the uprated options. Seem to be two options LOF and Ashcroft so a bit of research required. Having said that this one has managed to last 78k so not too bad considering the number of posts.

I did twitch a little when we took it out of low and high to fault find and hope it just required a bit of lube. Although the mechanic suggested often these need a little motion and can often be sorted by moving forward and trying again….

Not overly impressed by Nene who never called back at all. It’s not the first time they haven’t but I know they are busy….
Post #1022617 26th Jan 2024 6:41pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
Mines still on the genuine Adaptor shaft, I’m aware of the issue and always had it checked and lubed on the good advice by Blackwolf previously.
Last time it was looked at, it was still in perfect condition.

Unfortunately, some people have bad luck with alignment and fretting on them often caused by being dry and non lubed out of the factory.

There may be some possibility it’s a clutch spring that’s jammed up and came out though, and that can have sporadic effects of seeming like the clutch is fine one minute but not another.
It does sound like adaptor shaft failure though, and if so then a new clutch going in and Slave would be a a good idea.

You can have the high / low slip out of drive and go neural, but there shouldn’t be any noises.
It would just seem like being in neutral gears, silent but no drive. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1022622 26th Jan 2024 6:58pm
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Learningasigo



Member Since: 30 Nov 2023
Location: Midlands
Posts: 28

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
I have been advised to do the clutch and slave at the same time by another garage but loathed to do this as it was replaced 16th of May last year and only done 7k miles since.

The current quote, if it is the transfer box input shaft, is £890.

If I start adding things on it’s going to get v expensive v quickly!
Post #1022632 26th Jan 2024 7:36pm
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