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ozzie1989

Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey

Transmission Noise / Issue

Hi all, this is a bit of a long one so apologies, but I wanted to give the full story about my 110 Defender USW 2.4 with 60k on the clock.

Recent work includes: new TB output flange and handbrake assembly approx. 2 months ago; new discs, pads, wheel bearings and seals on all 4 corners last year (3k ago?); new flywheel, clutch, output shaft etc. approx. 3 years ago (10k ago?).

Symptoms
In recent months I've heard what I would only describe as a slight grinding noise when coming to a stop. Very intermittent and impossible to force it to happen. It's important to note the noise wasn't constant, so like something turning/catching at a certain point on it's radius. I figured it could be the brakes as my journeys are infrequent and short at the moment and the discs don't get much abuse.

In the last two to three weeks the noise has got worse, always heard when slowing down and appeared to be from the passenger side. Quick check with wheels in the air revealed nothing untoward.

Last week the noise was louder again and accompanied by a shudder, but still intermittent. It's at the point now where I can't trust the vehicle on a longer journey, just in case it's something serious and or dangerous (e.g. diff about to go).

Diagnosis so far...
So my first thought was to have a quick look at the diff pins (yes I have a 2 pin diff) but they are perfect as far as I can see through the filler. No elongation of the hole around them etc.

Today I stripped the passenger side down bit by bit. Firstly with the wheel off and turning the hub by hand it sounded fine. Running in first gear (note drivers wheel also off the ground) it also sounded fine. Second gear and above it sounded awful, a sort of chattering grinding noise.

Next I stripped off the brakes, I was hoping for a detached pad or something but no luck and no change in the noise. Next I took the hub off, noticeable difference in the volume of the noise, but still there. Hub bearings were perfect (I only fitted them last year), seal was spot on etc. and with the noise being intermittent I doubted it was these anyway.

Using a screwdriver as a listening device, I was almost sure it was the bearing in the stub axle next so off that came. Bearing was a little harder to turn than I thought but there were no marks on the rollers and no blueing of the surfaces to indicate heat - at the end of the day it only supports the shaft so I didn't expect it to be under too much strain.

CV joint was spot on with no issues. Only point to note was that a bit of the axle oil had mixed with the grease at some point, but I guess this isn't a big issue and it certainly wasn't 'full' of oil.

At this point I ran everything up again through the gears and although much quieter the noise is still there. Again to note, whilst constantly noisy there is a distinct vibration at a certain point - like a drr - drr -drr -drr sound.

At this point I noticed that if I accelerated the noise increased in speed and then seemed to go away, although that could be drowned out by the engine.

As I didn't fancy stripping the diff at this point, I removed the front prop shaft instead. UJ's were perfect (hadn't long been off anyway) and there doesn't appear to be any play in the corresponding input/output flanges.

Running it up again the noise is definitely quieter still, but still there. Most audible on tick over, disappearing when revving.

Next I popped the transfer box in neutral, A LOT quieter now, but maybe still there (I probably imagined it at this point).

Summary and Questions
I don't think I'm any closer to finding out what it is, at least it's nothing THAT obvious. However, I will rebuild the passenger stub axle and hub anyway, now I've had it off, and replace that stub axle bearing just in case.

At the transfer box, laying underneath, it sounds like a chattering - quite like the chattering of a knackered clutch plate actually, except this only happens on tick over in 2nd and above so I'm pretty sure it's not that. So the questions are...

Could I have something gone in the transfer box?
Could the noise of that something, travel down the prop to the diff and out to the hub (as I added each component back in the noise got louder)?
Can anyone suggest anything I may have missed (other than taking the diff or TB out which, I suppose, could be the next thing to do

)?

At the moment my plan is to rebuild that passenger stub/hub and then drive it again locally to see if the rubbing/vibrating/grinding noise has gone as I'm pretty stumped... Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)

10th Jul 2021 9:46pm

theflyingpaddy

Member Since: 21 Jan 2023
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 2

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green

Did you ever resolve this? Just spent the day doing discs, pads, bearings thinking I would solve the noise… only for it to be there still on a test drive.

20th Jan 2024 8:28pm

ozzie1989

Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Sadly not, I stripped and rebuilt the front axle on both sides and swapped the diff for an ATB from Ashcroft's.

The 2 pin diff that came out was actually in very good condition so definitely wasn't a diff issue.

The noise is still there, albeit intermittent, and if I don't drive the vehicle for a week or so it goes away for 30-50 miles.

Very strange! Nothing has fallen off yet though 😋 Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)

20th Jan 2024 8:52pm

theflyingpaddy

Member Since: 21 Jan 2023
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 2

Thank you!

Oh the joys. Why do we bother…

20th Jan 2024 9:53pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

Diff UJ’s looking okay? Wheel bearings? Many noises or vibration like issues can be related to the prop shaft and their components.
And unless the Props partially come off it’s not always easy to find a failed UJ bearing.
The rearmost UJ on the rear prop closest to the rear diff, was the one that failed on mine.
Sometimes the grease nipples vanish too and should be replaced asap if one is missing.
You can run with just one prop shaft, to see if either is giving the issue but isn’t ideal other than to just check.
You can isolate the rear diff by removing the rear halfshafts and rear prop as well, but you do need the handbrake drum bolted on even if the rear diff is off.
You have 2wd then front or rear whichever, but is going to handle different and is only really something to keep you going on a very temporary basis.

I swapped over this way when I replaced all my UJ’s on my props for GKN units, cuts down the work and did one prop at a time.
Or you can replace them outright, factory props aren’t cheap, upgrade ones significantly more.

You can check wheel bearings as well, but these are just a couple of ideas.

Edit* Just saw you had the wheel bearings replaced.

Is the exhaust rubbing anywhere? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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20th Jan 2024 10:15pm

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