 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2.4 wont start in cold temperatures |
 
|
|
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17598   
|
I've found the threads I remembered, it was a different problem namely ice forming in the breather at very low temperatures resulting in significant oil leaks. See:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post122135.html https://www.defender2.net/forum/post8698.html Searching for "webasto" will produce a huge selection of background reading for you! Note original post edited to correct autocorrect error - "ice" had helpfully been changed to "use". Last edited by blackwolf on 7th Jan 2024 9:32am. Edited 1 time in total |
||
6th Jan 2024 9:31pm |
|
| jf_est Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Tallinn Posts: 26  
|
Super useful. Appreciate the tip/links, blackwolf. Thank you.
|
||
|
7th Jan 2024 9:08am |
|
| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2449  
|
Also there are some sticky electrical pads to warm up fuel tanks and filters, batteries, oil sumps etc. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
||
|
7th Jan 2024 4:00pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20612
|
You may find a new battery is due, simple as that. They normally have a VERY long lifespan but eventually a new one can be beneficial.
My last battery lasted 12 years I think approx. You’ll soon know, if the battery voltage keeps dropping low. I’d think about a new one when convenient to buy, probably no longer be an issue again. The super low temps always brings about more cold cranking amps required, which can sometimes be the final straw. Chillin In The Backwoods🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
||
|
7th Jan 2024 7:55pm |
|
| nicolas0505 Member Since: 23 Dec 2020 Location: briançon Posts: 80 
|
hello For the oil breather hose I put heating pipe insulation The advantages of this product: Protection of pipes against cold Easy to put on, even on the elbows Excellent insulating qualities Prevents the formation of condensation Delays the effects of the gel Very good stability over time Composition Based on closed-cell synthetic rubber |
||
|
7th Jan 2024 7:57pm |
|
| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 165  
|
Old thread but worth reviving. Driving in the -30°C range is always a possibility here in Edmonton, Alberta Canada.
Get your glow plugs checked. They do fail. When I bought mine, all four were kaput. It came from a warm climate and nobody had noticed. Run a fuel additive with an anti-gel component. Run the tank right down in the late fall so you don't have any lingering summer fuel in your tank. Will it start after sitting in -30°C? Yup. I double glow and then it cranks really, really slowly for a second or two then "starts". Runs @#$% rough and the good lord only knows how much engine wear you are causing. So, if everything is up to snuff, it will start, but you would be crazy to do so in anything but an emergency. I run two Webasto heaters, one for the coolant and one heating the cab. I start the coolant one with a remote and, once it gets going, it starts the cab heater. They run off a separate battery so they don't run down the starting battery. After 45 minutes, the cab is coolish with no visible breath -- remember, we're talking -30C, the cab is warm at other temps -- and the coolant gauge shows an almost fully warmed engine. It still cranks a little slow and takes a while for the oil light to go out (remember, -30°C). I plan on adding plug-in heating pads to the sump and underneath the batteries. The Webastos are also on dash switches so I can turn them on while driving as well. The regular heater puts out great so no need for the auxiliary coolant heater but a 110 has a huge cab and I often cycle the auxiliary cab heater on and off (only when it's @#$% cold). The cab is then very warm, toasty actually. I do plan on having a fabric/clear partition made up to isolate the passenger cab from the load area to facilitate faster cab warm ups and reduce how often I use the aux cab heater. The heated screen is an absolute must and I will be adding heated wiper blades before next winter. Heated seats are not optional, full stop. Also really cold batteries do not charge. The battery location is not ideal so it takes a good long run to recharge the batteries. Frequent short trips will run them down. If you don't have a battery heater, use a trickle charger when it is really cold. |
||
|
7th Feb 2025 3:56pm |
|
| jf_est Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Tallinn Posts: 26
|
Great point, I should have updated the thread, but along with a local garage I discovered that the glow plugs weren't getting current - so it was unlikely they were doing anything at all, which would explain why it was so difficult to get going.
Also, I'm pretty convinced I need a stronger battery. The one I have currently works, but I'm sure fitting an upgraded lithium item would resolve any lingering cold start issues. My car is kept indoors in a garage, which protects it from the ice/snow, but not the cold. |
||
|
17th Feb 2025 3:06pm |
|
| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 165
|
I'm also adding a 12v-100w fuel filter heater.
It blows a lot of blue when descending a medium hill and very light throttle is applied. Throttle released, all clear. Fraction more throttle, clears up. This is only when temps hit -20°C and lower. Adding anti-gel helps a lot. Without anti-gel, cars behind disappear. I thought I had low-temp mapping issues but I was talking with another Defender owner and his performs similar antics (300TDI) so it must be a quirk of gelling fuel. |
||
|
17th Feb 2025 3:23pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
