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Spookytooth



Member Since: 19 Jan 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Many thanks, just been reading up on the operation of viscous fans and understand now why the dealer did work on the thermostat housing, although to no effect. I clearly believe I have something wrong with the clutch on my fan as I get the very loud roar, the reduced fuel consumption and the reduced power. However, even though it is on full blast it does not overcool the engine ie the temp gauge reads steady in the middle, does yours read similarly? Thanks
Post #348742 1st Aug 2014 9:41am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
thermostat controls temp doesn't matter if fan is running all the time , running temp will be the same

thermostat just closes a bit to let less water through to rad if fan running and overcooling rad

if fan is noisy all the time even if engine is cold then the fan coupling must be seized or near seized

normally noisy when first started then after few seconds go quiet then noisy if engine getting too hot
Post #348743 1st Aug 2014 9:47am
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Spookytooth



Member Since: 19 Jan 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thanks, think it is time to go and have another word with the dealer, may pay to have a new viscous clutch and pay myself if they can't help (Its under warranty, however, seems to have set up an exclusion zone around the dealer and always works as normal when the vehicle is with them)
Post #348989 2nd Aug 2014 12:38pm
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Sumi.P



Member Since: 27 Aug 2014
Location: London
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver
This may sound stupid but is there any way to make the roaring sound happen more often without damaging the car.
Post #354097 27th Aug 2014 10:48pm
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martinfiattech



Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

England 
WITH THE ENGINE OFF, and keys in hand check the resistance / preload of the viscous coupling. By turning the fan by hand, then When the engine is cold, warm, and normal running temp.

This would give an indication on how the coupling is performing, if you get permanent fan noise as described as a jet engine you may well have a dodgy viscous coupling.

My own 2011, 90 has a brief wooshing on cold start for a few mins then you can hardly hear it, the car has no over heating issues and on a flat out run for 25 miles last week. I pulled up to the round about at the end of the m69 turned the radio down just to hear the engine, as it rarely jets a good trash gave it a few blips of the throttle I still could not hear the fan. At that point I was deliberately looking for noises as I had driven it hard to give it a good clear out.

It goes better for it now, and idles a bit smoother too !
Must have needed to stretch it`s legs. Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires.
Post #354211 28th Aug 2014 3:28pm
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Spookytooth



Member Since: 19 Jan 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Dealer changed the Thermostat for the second time and is adamant the viscous fan is OK which means the engine must be overheating to the point that the fan needs to lock up and turn like a jet engine. Temp gauge does not move off normal, nor limp mode applied, just loses power and sups diesel. When on the drive the fan offers the resistance expected, either hot or cold, however, once warmed up on the motorway (no load ) locks up, roars like a jet, has no power and as stated sups the diesel. I now need to find a way of measuring the circulating water temperature at various parts of the cycle to find out what is going on, Since changing the thermostat and the cooler weather things have got a little better, however, pulling of the A1and dropping into 5th today all went back to normal for 5 miles or so ie fan roaring like a jet engine directly in synch with throttle application
Post #354305 28th Aug 2014 9:52pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
I would guess the likely possibilities are that the liquid has become over-viscous (e.g. with contamination or was defective when manufactured), or that there is mechanical contact between the sets of blades inside.

*Edit* Aha! Explanation of fan operating when cold:
http://www.haydenauto.com/featured%20produ...ntent.aspx

"A thermal fan clutch is engaged on a cold startup because the fluid drains into the working area when the engine is shut off. The fan clutch will slow down shortly after startup as a result of a pumping action produced by a difference in speed between the shaft and the body of the clutch."

Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #354325 29th Aug 2014 5:19am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
do the 2.2 puma have electric fans as well , sure the electric fans are not running making the noise ?
is aircon on when its doing it ?
has rad got free air flow , not blocked with mud,seeds,insects ?
anything in front of rad , spotlights etc
Post #354344 29th Aug 2014 7:42am
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martinfiattech



Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

England 
As mentioned above if everything else is ok air flow etc .
Why not ask the dealer to place it next new to a known good / new vehicle and listen to the both the fans, as if it`s that bad, and I know what a seized viscous sounds like. (Done more merc sprinters than I can remember ).

The difference should be obvious. Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires.
Post #354460 29th Aug 2014 7:31pm
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Shikari



Member Since: 12 Oct 2012
Location: Karachi
Posts: 14

Pakistan 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Hello folks …. Reviving an oooold thread I know l, but I’m facing the EXACT same issue that SpookkyTooth described here. Was wondering if anyone ever managed to find a solution to this problem … the noise out of my viscous fan is UNBEARABLE … and the shifting out of the first 2-3 gears is just not normal (car hardly moves b4 I HAVE to shift). Wud appreciate any updates … thanx.

ZAK
Post #1018327 14th Dec 2023 6:42am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1034

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
If your engine is not getting overly hot (and the fan is thus doing what it should be doing) then all you can do is change the fan with a known good or new unit.

The fan has a bimetallic spring at the front end in the centre, you can see it. As this spring warms from the warm air of the radiator it turns the center pin which will 'lock' the fan more to the shaft. Most of the time it is freewheeling and only turning a fraction of the rotation of the shaft.

If the bimetallic spring has broken or the little centre pin is seized it will lock the fan in high engagement and it will roar. It is a completely stand alone system so unless you have an overheating engine you don't have to look far to fix it.

You can take the fan off an use a bit of heat on the bimetallic spring gently to see if it turns the pin. Very rarely do the internals go bad (sealed system). To remove the fan you need a bit of a special (thin) spanner (32mm?) and a tool to hold the pulley. Turn it the correct way (can't recall left or right - but you turn in the natural fan rotation direction e.i. pulling air in). Can be a little fiddly if you don't have the right tools.


Last edited by TexasRover on 14th Dec 2023 7:30am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1018329 14th Dec 2023 7:26am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1989

United Kingdom 
TexasRover wrote:
. To remove the fan you need a bit of a special (thin) spanner (32mm?) and a tool to hold the pulley. Turn it the correct way (can't recall left or right - but you turn in the natural fan rotation direction e.i. pulling air in). Can be a little fiddly if you don't have the right tools.

For the 2.4/2.2 Puma’s It’s a normal thread, so anti clockwise to loosen nut.

For the 2.4/2.2 Puma’s the spanner is 36mm. I found the draper 37536 single ended open 36mm spanner ideal and about £6 on line.

The nut can be very tight so spanner may need a sharp tap with a hammer to loosen the nut. I purchased a tool from Bell Auto Services (BAS) to hold the pulley in place while I used the spanner, even then I had to use half of a trolley jack handle on the breaker bar on the pulley tool and the other half of the trolley jack handle on the spanner to get sufficient torque to loosen the fan nut.

BAS tool
https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/defen...y-spanner/

You can make one cheaply yourself, but as I was buying the BAS intercooler and silicon hoses at the same time it was a small additional cost compared to the cost of the IC, hoses and new rad I was fitting.
Post #1018373 14th Dec 2023 12:16pm
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Shikari



Member Since: 12 Oct 2012
Location: Karachi
Posts: 14

Pakistan 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Thanx gents … new fan ordered n I shud hv it by tomorrow 🤞. However, less luck sourcing the correct tool here, but I’ll eventually make one if need be. Anyhoo, will provide update soon as there is one.

ZAK
Post #1018454 15th Dec 2023 4:45pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 511

United Kingdom 
The fan nut on my 2.2l 2014 engine is 32mm just in case anyone is going to invest in a spanner👍..
AFAIK that's still standard ie original..
Post #1018500 16th Dec 2023 9:40am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 511

United Kingdom 
My apologies.. It is 36.. Just actually checked ir👍😂
Should have known better when I see Ian has already said 36 anyway👍
Post #1018501 16th Dec 2023 9:47am
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